Want to build a sensitive 2 way stand mount

[wixy]

I have just recently gotten into the diy speaker hobby by building a pair of fostex back loaded horns.

I'm now thinking of my next project, and would like to build a high quality 2-way stand mount speaker. The cost of the drivers is not a significant issue.

However, I would like the speakers to be sensitive enough so that I can use them with low powered t-amps and tube amps, and still have a big sound.

My listening tastes are rock/pop/jazz/female vocals.

Are there any sensitive 2-way, high quality diy designs out there that I can follow?

[Magnetar]

If if it will fit on a stand it won't be a sensitive two way.

Look to build a 30-35 hz flare front horn that can be crossed between 400 and 600 hz and a large format compression driver /horn to cover the rest.

This should be 105 to 108 db sensitive but will be compromised at the frequency extremes. The better the horns and drivers the lower the compromise.

Look at something like the the Klipschhorn, it seems to fit your target. Maybe clone one, there are plans out there if you look.

[Jay_WJ]

My ER18RNX/27TDFC MTM 2-way design is a low-distortion, high-sensitivity design, which is also tube amp friendly with its optional impedance flattening circuit. Although it's currently a preliminary design, you'll be able to obtain a satisfactory result by tweaking only two components in the tweeter network as I suggest in the design page.

If interested, visit my website below and find a link under "Preliminary Crossover Designs."

[planet10]

Originally posted by Jay_WJ
My ER18RNX/27TDFC MTM 2-way design is high-sensitivity design

90 dB is high sensitivity?

A speakers efficiency is tied to it's size, the larger a driver the greater its potential for efficiency. So limiying yoirself to a standmount will limit your efficiency potential,

Hoffmann's iron law has something to say about it too...

The 1st approach that cpmes to mind is a 6 or 8" fullrange or widerange + a tweeter.

FE167 (~94 dB) will go in as small as 15 litres, something closer to twice that so get more bass. FE207 would also play the same role (bigger box, a touch more efficient and a bit better bass -- i have one of these in the queu, but it won't be a stand mount)

The Hemp FR8c would play here too... i know that iys whizzer comes off more or less transparently which is not the case with the Fostex.

These are the usual candidates... i'm sure there are more especially if you consider vintage drivers.

dave

[Brett]

Originally posted by planet10
90 dB is high sensitivity?

I was just about to type the same thing when I read your post.

[wixy]

Thanks planet10.

The room is quite small (11.5ft x 11.5ft). I think the room size is limiting my FE206E's in the blh.

What would be your pick of the Fostex's for sound quality in a room this size? I am thinking perhaps the FE168ESigma, but in what cabinet?

However, I do want bass. How well do fullrange drivers do when paired with subwoofers? What type of subwoofers match?

Any advice would be much appreciated. I'm just trying to find a good speaker design that will perform well in this small room, and play rock music well.

[planet10]

Originally posted by wixy
The room is quite small (11.5ft x 11.5ft). I think the room size is limiting my FE206E's in the blh.

What would be your pick of the Fostex's for sound quality in a room this size? I am thinking perhaps the FE168ESigma, but in what cabinet?

However, I do want bass. How well do fullrange drivers do when paired with subwoofers? What type of subwoofers match?

Your room is much the same size Chris'. We have found that in his room, it is very easy to overload the room if the speaker has too much bass potential. ie Austin A126 with FE126 overloads the room, same driver in Frugel-Horn doesn't (but the same FH with FF125k dioes). The Fonken is the box that works best in his room. At about 91 dB the Fonken may not be efficient enuff for your needs (we happily use them with 3-5 watts in Chris' room, 5 watts in my much, much bigger room (effectivelt 35x23 with a vault to 16') keeps me happy most of the time.

I've not yet had the pleasure of playing with the 168, but it would be a mid-tweeter in any stand-mount box and would not go as low as the Fonken (at least not with as much finese) -- it really wants a horn. (i do know it is up against a steep challenge as i haven't been able to make my 108eS compare to the new FE127eN)

Taking a mid-tweeter + woofer approach would really help with getting things to mate with your room. You have the task of generating bass without overloading the room and maying with the FR.

dave

[Brett]

On second thoughts, why not the original Ariel? Not a standmount but takes up no more floor area and in your small room would be excellent. It's really a superb speaker. I had a pair several years ago and apart from horns the only speaker to ever startle me with superb dynamics.
http://www.nutshellhifi.com/Ariel.html
I have a spare set of NIB drivers too.

[wixy]

Thanks very much for the advice. The Fonken looks tempting....very tempting.......

Originally posted by planet10

Taking a mid-tweeter + woofer approach would really help with getting things to mate with your room. You have the task of generating bass without overloading the room and maying with the FR.

dave

Sorry, the terminology has gone over my head head here. What do you mean by 'mid-tweeter + woofer approach'. Do you know of any example designs I can follow?

[planet10]

Originally posted by wixy
What do you mean by 'mid-tweeter + woofer approach'. Do you know of any example designs I can follow?

A mid-tweeter is a driver, (usually called a full-range driver these days) that is used in a 2-way system with a woofer crossed in at ~100-500 Hz. It relieves the FR of having to deal with LF thus benefitting their mid/top (at the expense of an XO). It allows small bass limiyed "FRs" like the 50mm Jordans or Bandors or the many 3" drivers to excel. It allows a really efficient FR to perform in systems that need high levels or extreme dynamics.

Martin King's latest OB uses an FE103e as a mid-tweeter. The configuration is called FAST (i expansion of this acronym escapes me). FAST is often associated with OBs, but is widely applicable. Noresco in the late 60s made a sealed FAST with a 3" Foster "F83A" and a dourgeous 10" Foster woofer with a monster alnico motor that is always a score when you run across them.

These transition into a Sub(s)/Sat system as the XO frequency goes down below ~100-120 Hz. This demands more of the FR, but lets the woofer work only in the region where room effects are really coming into play. It should also make XO a bit easier.

With a FAST a passive XO is possible, for a sub/sat you should be active.

You can see that this leaves a zillion possiblities

dave