Crossover Experts Help Please

Bigred · 3rd November 2007, 10:10 PM

I'd like to know if its plausible to seperate this crossover network in order to turn it in to bi-wire/passive bi-amping capable. Please see attached schematic and info.

I'm thinking if I were to seperate the network at the red marking lines this should accomplish my goal. The only obvious problem I can see is that the K-1 polyswitch/ L1 lamp protection circuit is only in circuit with the woofer. If its plausible to seperate what must I do in order to keep this type of protection circuit for both limbs? Also, how are the high frequencies filtered from the woofer?

richie00boy · 3rd November 2007, 10:30 PM

Are you sure that's drawn correctly? By that diagram the woofer is run full range and the tweeter crossover is a little odd. To convert it to bi-wire simply unhook the YL wire from the board and attach it to your new input terminal.

Pano · 3rd November 2007, 10:53 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by richie00boy
To convert it to bi-wire simply unhook the YL wire from the board and attach it to your new input terminal.

Exactly. Easy as cake.

It is a strange arrangment, with the fullrange woofer and the 2 tweeters out of phase. But hey, if it works, why not?

Bigred · 3rd November 2007, 11:02 PM

Thanks for the resposes so far. Unhooking the yellow wire would accomplish what I have already described but put the polyswitch and lamp protecton in the tweeters circuit. Looking for some options with regards to the protection also. It IS drawn correctly.

Bigred · 4th November 2007, 09:46 PM

Well I am considering removing the polyswitch and lamp protection altogether. I never really did like the idea of them in the signal path. I'll just have to use caution when driving the speakers. Any suggestions for a good quality capacitor? (2uF 100V)
Here is the revised schematic.

richie00boy · 5th November 2007, 12:03 PM

The polyswitch and lamp is designed to protect the tweeter, as it's tweeter that gets blown by clipping. If you move it to the woofer it might as well be thrown in the bin.

Bigred · 5th November 2007, 06:22 PM

I don't think thats correct Richie. In the first schematic the polyswitch is before both the woofer and tweeter. The first lamp when the polyswitch opens would attenuate the signal for the woofer also and the second lamp attenuates further the tweeters or am I missing something?

3rd November 2007, 10:10 PM	#1
Bigred diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2007	Crossover Experts Help Please I'd like to know if its plausible to seperate this crossover network in order to turn it in to bi-wire/passive bi-amping capable. Please see attached schematic and info. I'm thinking if I were to seperate the network at the red marking lines this should accomplish my goal. The only obvious problem I can see is that the K-1 polyswitch/ L1 lamp protection circuit is only in circuit with the woofer. If its plausible to seperate what must I do in order to keep this type of protection circuit for both limbs? Also, how are the high frequencies filtered from the woofer?

3rd November 2007, 10:30 PM	#2
richie00boy Did it Himself diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Gloucestershire, England, UK	Are you sure that's drawn correctly? By that diagram the woofer is run full range and the tweeter crossover is a little odd. To convert it to bi-wire simply unhook the YL wire from the board and attach it to your new input terminal. __________________ www.readresearch.co.uk my website for UK diy audio people - designs, PCBs, kits and more

5th November 2007, 12:03 PM	#6
richie00boy Did it Himself diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Gloucestershire, England, UK	The polyswitch and lamp is designed to protect the tweeter, as it's tweeter that gets blown by clipping. If you move it to the woofer it might as well be thrown in the bin. __________________ www.readresearch.co.uk my website for UK diy audio people - designs, PCBs, kits and more

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3rd November 2007, 11:02 PM	#4
Bigred diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2007	Thanks for the resposes so far. Unhooking the yellow wire would accomplish what I have already described but put the polyswitch and lamp protecton in the tweeters circuit. Looking for some options with regards to the protection also. It IS drawn correctly.

4th November 2007, 09:46 PM	#5
Bigred diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2007	Well I am considering removing the polyswitch and lamp protection altogether. I never really did like the idea of them in the signal path. I'll just have to use caution when driving the speakers. Any suggestions for a good quality capacitor? (2uF 100V) Here is the revised schematic.

5th November 2007, 06:22 PM	#7
Bigred diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2007	I don't think thats correct Richie. In the first schematic the polyswitch is before both the woofer and tweeter. The first lamp when the polyswitch opens would attenuate the signal for the woofer also and the second lamp attenuates further the tweeters or am I missing something?

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