10" woofer choice
Hello, I'm looking for a bass speaker. (no subwoofer!
)
fc should be around 300hz.
I'm looking for something with punch but clear, not imprecise.
My room is about 20m2 (feet?)
I'm hesitating between closed-box enclosure Seas l26rfx or bass reflex Monacor sph-275c.
Over it in mid bass there's a Davis 17klv6a
I can spend around 400$ for both speakers.
Hello, I'm looking for a bass speaker. (no subwoofer!
)fc should be around 300hz.
I'm looking for something with punch but clear, not imprecise.
My room is about 20m2 (feet?)
I'm hesitating between closed-box enclosure Seas l26rfx or bass reflex Monacor sph-275c.
Over it in mid bass there's a Davis 17klv6a
I can spend around 400$ for both speakers.
Hi,
I can't decide if you're looking for a bass speaker and don't want a sub woofer, or if you want a sub-bass speaker because you don't have one.
A sub-bass will require a different driver from a bass speaker driver.
If you want your sub to go more than quiet it needs volume displacement, i.e. Xmax times Sd should be large.
It also needs a fairly low Fs.
These two requirements usually rule out smaller drivers. You can get low Fs drivers that are small and by doubling them up get the very low bass oomph that a sub should provide. Multiple drivers usually cost more.
One thing is certain, sub performance = low efficiency, whether you go sealed or vented.
Have a look at the tapped horn thread and see if that could give your answer.
I can't decide if you're looking for a bass speaker and don't want a sub woofer, or if you want a sub-bass speaker because you don't have one.
A sub-bass will require a different driver from a bass speaker driver.
If you want your sub to go more than quiet it needs volume displacement, i.e. Xmax times Sd should be large.
It also needs a fairly low Fs.
These two requirements usually rule out smaller drivers. You can get low Fs drivers that are small and by doubling them up get the very low bass oomph that a sub should provide. Multiple drivers usually cost more.
One thing is certain, sub performance = low efficiency, whether you go sealed or vented.
Have a look at the tapped horn thread and see if that could give your answer.
Have you considered the Monacor SPH-275 you mentioned in a transmission line? If you can afford the extra space it should work well, I plan on doing this myself but haven't yet got the modelling software. I know it can be used up to and above 400hz so it fits that criteria, and the TL design should give strong bass to 30Hz or less.
ok, is it that?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
This 12" probably wont have lots of heavy "punch" but will rather be impressively snappy and precise ... actually I dont think you will get much impressive punch with any 10", fore that you may need double 10in
Nahh, this driver probably have too high Fs fore hifi, but I do think its a real sweet looker ... and what makes it useable fore hifi is that fore PA relative low SPL, which should count fore some bass orientation
But it has pretty good linear Xmax of 9.2mm, hence would take some Eq
http://www.precisiondevices.co.uk/showdetails.asp?id=80
Nahh, this driver probably have too high Fs fore hifi, but I do think its a real sweet looker ... and what makes it useable fore hifi is that fore PA relative low SPL, which should count fore some bass orientation
But it has pretty good linear Xmax of 9.2mm, hence would take some Eq
http://www.precisiondevices.co.uk/showdetails.asp?id=80
Maybe this one?:
http://www.precisiondevices.co.uk/showdetails.asp?id=63
With an equalization it looks ok and doesn't cost too much ( 100€). Has someone ever had experimented precision devices? Does it sound well?
ps: it works with an active crossover via a PC, so it isn't a pb to make a "bass boost"
http://www.precisiondevices.co.uk/showdetails.asp?id=63
With an equalization it looks ok and doesn't cost too much ( 100€). Has someone ever had experimented precision devices? Does it sound well?
ps: it works with an active crossover via a PC, so it isn't a pb to make a "bass boost"
Sorry to say that the PD driver I linked to seems to be discontinued ... it was interesting because it wasnt too effective
Andrew, I clearly understood that its not a sub he wants, but a driver with midbass punch and still able to go high with clean rolloff
Beyma 10LW30N seems to behave very nice in about 50liter BR
Andrew, I clearly understood that its not a sub he wants, but a driver with midbass punch and still able to go high with clean rolloff
Beyma 10LW30N seems to behave very nice in about 50liter BR
they are many options up for you, though i'd personally not go for a PA driver.
L26 is an ok driver for you to cross at 300hz ! main breakup is at 4000hz so you dont have any HD3 distortion byproducts before 700hz or so, so quite ok for a 300hz crossover, even 12db...
the problem you're gonna have if you go passive is sensivity. Since thoses davis drivers are quite efficient (rated at 92.6 , but actually i know they're close to 89 db W/M,from having worked with em, wich is still not bad) and you're probably gonna want to compensate for baffle step , you're gonna need 95 db of sensivity. 93 would be enough for semi BS.
So using two drivers by side is quite attractive since it raises sensivity.
http://www.riviera-acoustics.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=22_76_114&products_id=795
going with two of those would be quite attractive since they're cheap, low distortion and quite high sensivity. However, they're big. Two 12" a side may be too big.
if you don't need full baffle step, thoses could be an option
Peerless Exclusive 8"
even lower dist, good extension in a vented box, to around 25hz -3db i'd say looking at the specs.
Jon marsh tested them at htguide : 1 2 3 testing
he noted the cone flap at 900hz that disqualified the driver for the use he had in mind, but for your use it would be just perfect
(Personally that'd be my choice. You got scanspeak distortion and quality for a lot cheaper with thoses)
Monacor SPH-225C
thoses are not as known, but monacor usually does good quality stuff. No distortion information on it though.
L26 is an ok driver for you to cross at 300hz ! main breakup is at 4000hz so you dont have any HD3 distortion byproducts before 700hz or so, so quite ok for a 300hz crossover, even 12db...
the problem you're gonna have if you go passive is sensivity. Since thoses davis drivers are quite efficient (rated at 92.6 , but actually i know they're close to 89 db W/M,from having worked with em, wich is still not bad) and you're probably gonna want to compensate for baffle step , you're gonna need 95 db of sensivity. 93 would be enough for semi BS.
So using two drivers by side is quite attractive since it raises sensivity.
http://www.riviera-acoustics.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=22_76_114&products_id=795
going with two of those would be quite attractive since they're cheap, low distortion and quite high sensivity. However, they're big. Two 12" a side may be too big.
if you don't need full baffle step, thoses could be an option
Peerless Exclusive 8"
even lower dist, good extension in a vented box, to around 25hz -3db i'd say looking at the specs.
Jon marsh tested them at htguide : 1 2 3 testing
he noted the cone flap at 900hz that disqualified the driver for the use he had in mind, but for your use it would be just perfect
(Personally that'd be my choice. You got scanspeak distortion and quality for a lot cheaper with thoses)
Monacor SPH-225C
thoses are not as known, but monacor usually does good quality stuff. No distortion information on it though.
I am by no means a PA fanatic at all and would sure like to have at least some of that 30hz too, but I have heard even quite cheap semi PA drivers make rather expencive hifi driver sound like the worst cheap toy drivers with no real bass at all
In many other cases where there really is some sub lows, its very often too much out of control
No, I dont belive that most hifi woofers can present any real slam ... they are too refined and civilized
In many other cases where there really is some sub lows, its very often too much out of control
No, I dont belive that most hifi woofers can present any real slam ... they are too refined and civilized
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