Though I love speakers with phase plugs especially in OB applications, the main culprit with the otherwise excellent 12" Peerless isn't the dust cup IMO.
Look for a speaker with cloth surround if you can find one with a smooth voice region and such well controlled break up like the Peerless and you will gain way more in terms of less (rubber-like) coloration.
XO has to be re-tuned as is the case of removing the dust cup only as this plays a important role at the high frequencies the 12" is used in this beautiful design.
Greetings
Michael
Look for a speaker with cloth surround if you can find one with a smooth voice region and such well controlled break up like the Peerless and you will gain way more in terms of less (rubber-like) coloration.
XO has to be re-tuned as is the case of removing the dust cup only as this plays a important role at the high frequencies the 12" is used in this beautiful design.
Greetings
Michael
wooden dowel glued on with epoxy. copper ring is held by screwed on speaker spike.
http://img527.imageshack.us/img527/9871/cimg1327ta0.jpg
http://img527.imageshack.us/img527/9871/cimg1327ta0.jpg
none noticed yet 
though there is a difference in measurements.
they may be easier to listen to for prolonged time, but I use these speakers only for movies. they are used ~100-700 hz, so harmonic distortion was never the issue anyway.
This mod is worth doing if you are using this woofer for this thread's project. plus, I think cone/surround treatments would be necessary ( at 700 hz cone starts to go wild).
though there is a difference in measurements.they may be easier to listen to for prolonged time, but I use these speakers only for movies. they are used ~100-700 hz, so harmonic distortion was never the issue anyway.
This mod is worth doing if you are using this woofer for this thread's project. plus, I think cone/surround treatments would be necessary ( at 700 hz cone starts to go wild).
stripped top damping layer from cone
slit cones
sprayed with damping spray
red impedance curve is before, green curve is after mods
slit cones
sprayed with damping spray
red impedance curve is before, green curve is after mods
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Very interesting work. Thanks for posting!
I'll be building a pair of these for myself next week. But I'll be using a different tweeter, the good old ScanSpeak 3806. Recently out of production, but still a great driver.
Don't know if I will go so far as to strip, slit and recoat the Peeless woofer - but it's nice to see someone take this to the Nth degree. =)
I'll be building a pair of these for myself next week. But I'll be using a different tweeter, the good old ScanSpeak 3806. Recently out of production, but still a great driver.
Don't know if I will go so far as to strip, slit and recoat the Peeless woofer - but it's nice to see someone take this to the Nth degree. =)
CLS, yes, fs is lowered because of added mass.
i noticed that after all these mods there is much less ringing at high volume.
even though there is almost no cone breakup, these woofers still did not sound too good, when played full range. because of large paper cone energy storage I guess...
ScanSpeak 3806 probably can be used just with a single capacitor, for even simpler crossover )
i noticed that after all these mods there is much less ringing at high volume.
even though there is almost no cone breakup, these woofers still did not sound too good, when played full range. because of large paper cone energy storage I guess...
ScanSpeak 3806 probably can be used just with a single capacitor, for even simpler crossover )
Just to bump this thread.
I built a pair of these for myself yesterday, see pics below.
Not using the same tweeter, I've got the old ScanSpeak 3806 installed. The monster tweeter - alas no longer made.
Sounds great with just a 13.5mH coil on the woofer and 5uF + 5.5R on the tweeter. Crossover point is about 1100Hz, acoustic.
As the cutout for the SS3806 is so large, I plan to try a few small cone drivers in its place. E.G., Fostex, TB, Aurasound, etc. Will probably cross them 2nd order HP at about 1100Hz.
My hope is to find a nice, big, open back "tweeter" to mate with the Peerless woofer. That might encourage a few more people to build this fun speaker.
Stay tuned.
I built a pair of these for myself yesterday, see pics below.
Not using the same tweeter, I've got the old ScanSpeak 3806 installed. The monster tweeter - alas no longer made.
Sounds great with just a 13.5mH coil on the woofer and 5uF + 5.5R on the tweeter. Crossover point is about 1100Hz, acoustic.
As the cutout for the SS3806 is so large, I plan to try a few small cone drivers in its place. E.G., Fostex, TB, Aurasound, etc. Will probably cross them 2nd order HP at about 1100Hz.
My hope is to find a nice, big, open back "tweeter" to mate with the Peerless woofer. That might encourage a few more people to build this fun speaker.
Stay tuned.
Attachments
Good question.
That's a big room.
For about 4 years I ran these tweeters with a cheap 12" woofers in a big sealed box at work. Huge room, about 45x50x22 feet. Or almost 50000 cubic feet. Maybe 7 times the volume of your room. They did very well indeed at only a few watts.
We are talking 12" woofer in a big sealed box vs open baffle, but I know the tweeters can handle it - I suspect the woofer should be able to as well.
That's a big room.
For about 4 years I ran these tweeters with a cheap 12" woofers in a big sealed box at work. Huge room, about 45x50x22 feet. Or almost 50000 cubic feet. Maybe 7 times the volume of your room. They did very well indeed at only a few watts.
We are talking 12" woofer in a big sealed box vs open baffle, but I know the tweeters can handle it - I suspect the woofer should be able to as well.
I've often seen the little TB 2-inchers, and thought that about the only thing I could come up with to use one for would be as a tweeter that either played unusually low, or was a dipole. Some of the 3 inch drivers would no doubt be good, but for a xo at 1100 I'd be curious to know how the real little ones stood up. There are even some 1 inch drivers floating around, aren't there?
It seems like if they're good for anything this would have to be it...
It seems like if they're good for anything this would have to be it...
I've recently knocked up a pair of Hi-Vi B3S (3" driver) sealed boxes for the bedroom (for FM radio only) based on a Zaph design. While I am quite impressed with their sound, I think they'd not be quite good enough for a high range driver in a 'higher quality' speaker.....although they'd make an OK job of it.
Admittedly mine are run full range which I think would affect the treble clarity a tad. Still, they handle cymbals and suchlike quite well.
Great little driver, though, for the give away price.
Stuey
Admittedly mine are run full range which I think would affect the treble clarity a tad. Still, they handle cymbals and suchlike quite well.
Great little driver, though, for the give away price.
Stuey
