best hi-end midrange driver

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As posted here a "few" times before, a friend and I had excellent results with the Audio Technology (Skaaning) C-Qenze 15 cm midrange, concave dust cap.
http://www.flexunits.com/iz.asp?id=4|a|134|||

Ours were purchased about 4 1/2 years ago, and I understand that they have been slowly evolving since. Best I have ever heard, although I have not been keeping up since purchasing these. Very low distortion, transparent, fast, dynamic; no audible faults. High volumes handled with ease.

I'd suggest the 15 cm for better HF performance; 6.5-7" is really pushing it for a mid. With the smaller size you'll get lower cone mass, and better high frequency dispersion. We cross over with a low order multislope at about 3900 Hz. A trap was needed.

On the low end, we use a sealed box for the LF rolloff, so that we don't need a High Pass capacitor.

You do need excellent crossover parts; the driver does nothing to either increase or decrease cable and component colorations. Cable differences are easily heard. Diffraction control is important too. We used a firm foam "mountain" around the mid/tweeter box, with curves of 10 cm radius or greater in a teardrop shape. Felt was used to cover the foam but soon wool rug will be used for (much) better looks.
 
Ex-Moderator R.I.P.
Joined 2005
All true, but a 15cm driver isnt that a 6"
you will get the best midrange with a 5"(12cm), at least if you want to cross high
Two mids may give you better dynamics at loud levels, but you will get the best quality with one mid

This one uses a 4"
http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/ektagrande.htm

If you want a dipole mid maybe you should look at PHY, but I suppose its not fore playing very loud or hard rock ... many things to consider

Wonder how this will work in OB
http://www.emspeaker.fr/home_ger.html
 
The 15 cm refers to the outside mounting flange dimension, actually 15.5 cm. The cone itself is 4" and the standard measurement of 1/2 the surround gives 4 1/2 ". The unit is referred to as 4" on the price list. And I do agree with Tinitus that 4-5" is about the right size for a mid.

This is a 4 1/2" on powerful steroids; I completely agree that one driver is preferable unless you have some particular reason for dispersion shaping that would require two drivers. With our low 2nd order crossover, the unit shows no signs of stress at any level I'd ever play it at. Two are definitely not needed.

We did listen to the original larger Revelator mid; I think the newer smaller one would be the better choice than the larger, as shown, especially with the smoother high end. The low end power handling of the smaller SS might be an issue, as might the low impedance if you use two. I still suspect the AT is better than either, but have only heard the larger. I have no doubt though that the SS would be very satisfactory.

Incidentally the tweeter we're using is the 2905/9000 Revelator, which mates very well with the AT.
 
I was thinking using 6" to 7" mid driver,and not a 4" or5" because those 2 mids working in a WWMTM arrangement will perform on open air,so i think there is a need for bigger moving surfuce of the cone,but maybe i am wrong and a 4" or 5" will work fine.HOW ABOUT USING A 4" AND A 6" OR 7"( of the same manufacturer ofcourse)TOGETHER?Theoritically we receive a more extented frequency response but is this compination creating problems?This could also happen with bass drivers as well?using a 15"and a 12" together ?
 
Two 6.5" units will have much more dynamics than a single 4-5" driver and depending on the crossing you probably will need that extra excursion as well.

Using a 4" in tandem with a 7" is not wise unless you highpass the 4".. otherwise that little fellow will run out of steam before the 7" and that will limit dynamics.


/Peter
 
In my opinion the best way to use a midrange driver is to choose an excellent driver capable delivering practically the majority of frequence-range,so our ears will not listen to any crossing point between the critical 150-4.000 hz.
Bass as well as tremble will just help give the harmonics.The critical listening is mids.If a loudspeaker fails there ,then its a failure
 
Ex-Moderator R.I.P.
Joined 2005
Theoretical that may be so ... in real life, the driver that suits what you want may not be the best driver at all ... the best fore the job, yes ... but maybe not the best all together

I suppose a Supravox 165GMF will do what you want ... but how good it really is I dont know ... it dont handle much power, instead you get high sensitivity ... which puts high demands on the woofers ... and tweeter

Some think that designing "the best" is merely a question of choosing "the best" drivers, but its really much more complicated

Some will be happy with a Feastrex as midrange ... others may destroy it instantly playing loud rock

If there really is "a best" midrange driver, the AT is claimed to be one, then you will have to go into the demands requested to use such a driver
 
joz said:
In my opinion the best way to use a midrange driver is to choose an excellent driver capable delivering practically the majority of frequence-range,so our ears will not listen to any crossing point between the critical 150-4.000 hz.
Bass as well as tremble will just help give the harmonics.The critical listening is mids.If a loudspeaker fails there ,then its a failure


The Veravox 7X has a good reputation for such applications.
 
joz said:
I was thinking using 6" to 7" mid driver,and not a 4" or5" because those 2 mids working in a WWMTM arrangement will perform on open air,so i think there is a need for bigger moving surfuce of the cone,but maybe i am wrong and a 4" or 5" will work fine.HOW ABOUT USING A 4" AND A 6" OR 7"( of the same manufacturer ofcourse)TOGETHER?Theoritically we receive a more extented frequency response but is this compination creating problems?This could also happen with bass drivers as well?using a 15"and a 12" together ?

I do not know what you mean by "perform on open air". Will it be used outdoors (not in a building?) for concerts? Or do you mean an open baffle? (Not in a box enclosure.) What is the sensitivity you need? How large an area are you trying to fill with sound? What kind of music? How much power do the amplifiers have?

The Skaaning and Scanspeak drivers are both for home systems, in closed enclosures.

We're using the Skaaning with the Scanspeak 25W (the lower Qts one) very well, but again that is for use in the home.

I would suggest that you take advice from someone who has actually used the driver they suggest. No one really knows a driver until they have used it.

The Skaaning 4 (15 cm) can handle normal indoor use by itself very well. It has a very big motor. But if you plan to use this system outdoors, then two 6" might be better, but that makes the tweeter choice very difficult, for low crossover, power handling, and sensitivity.
An experienced designer could use different sized drivers, but it is complicated and difficult, and I do not recommend it.
 
What are you planning to use for a bass driver?

and the tweeter?

As to your question, here is a short list, but they won't all play from 150-4.5k...and really shouldn't have to. That is too low in most cases for a dedicated mid unless you are crossing to a 15 or an 18 which I doubt, and too high in the treble as most tweeters can be comfortably crossed an octave lower. Doing an MTM and crossing in this range is a little silly in my opinion, but hell, Lynn Olson did it.

Audio Technology CQuenze 15cm or 18cm
Accuton C173N-T6
Audax PR170MO
PHL 1120
Visaton Ti-100

I currently have the Audax and the Visaton in an OB test baffle rigth now and it is really hard to choose. They are both wonderful, but very different. They are both smooth and full of detail, but the presentation is different and I am having a hard time choosing which to use for a project.

What I am getting at is that you probably want to buy a few things and listen to them to decide instead of us telling you to buy X because X is the BEST! Look for things used to reduce cash outlay unless you are absolutely flush with cash. eBay, DIYaudio, and the Madisound board are all good places to look for things. Don't rule out anything vintage either....they used to make things better than they do today evidenced by JBL, Alec, and Western Electric.

C
 
I currently have the Audax and the Visaton in an OB test baffle rigth now and it is really hard to choose. They are both wonderful, but very different. They are both smooth and full of detail, but the presentation is different and I am having a hard time choosing which to use for a project.

If they are so different, surely the difference will show up in measurement! ?
 
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