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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: athens greece
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Could you suggest the very best hi-end mindrange driver 6"-7.5"with frequency response about 150-4.500 hz
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#2 |
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Custom Title
diyAudio Member
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There is no 'best'. The Audax PR17OMO isn't generally recommended for 150Hz, but move that up an octave or so, and you've got your driver.
A number of fullrangers suit the bill well, with offerings from lowther, fostex, and others. PHL are also generally considered choice 'midrange' drivers
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I write for www.enjoythemusic.com in the DIY section. You may find yourself getting a preview of a project in-progress. Be warned! |
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#3 |
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Speakerholic
diyAudio Moderator
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joz, what's in the works?
It's easier for us to help if we know a little more. |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: athens greece
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i think to bult a big HI-END loudspeaker WWMTM open baffle (only one of the woofers will be enclosed in a sealed box,all other drivers will work on free air)
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
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As posted here a "few" times before, a friend and I had excellent results with the Audio Technology (Skaaning) C-Qenze 15 cm midrange, concave dust cap.
http://www.flexunits.com/iz.asp?id=4|a|134||| Ours were purchased about 4 1/2 years ago, and I understand that they have been slowly evolving since. Best I have ever heard, although I have not been keeping up since purchasing these. Very low distortion, transparent, fast, dynamic; no audible faults. High volumes handled with ease. I'd suggest the 15 cm for better HF performance; 6.5-7" is really pushing it for a mid. With the smaller size you'll get lower cone mass, and better high frequency dispersion. We cross over with a low order multislope at about 3900 Hz. A trap was needed. On the low end, we use a sealed box for the LF rolloff, so that we don't need a High Pass capacitor. You do need excellent crossover parts; the driver does nothing to either increase or decrease cable and component colorations. Cable differences are easily heard. Diffraction control is important too. We used a firm foam "mountain" around the mid/tweeter box, with curves of 10 cm radius or greater in a teardrop shape. Felt was used to cover the foam but soon wool rug will be used for (much) better looks. |
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#6 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Sudbury, Ontario Canada
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Quote:
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Dan |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2005
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All true, but a 15cm driver isnt that a 6"
you will get the best midrange with a 5"(12cm), at least if you want to cross high Two mids may give you better dynamics at loud levels, but you will get the best quality with one mid This one uses a 4" http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/ektagrande.htm If you want a dipole mid maybe you should look at PHY, but I suppose its not fore playing very loud or hard rock ... many things to consider Wonder how this will work in OB http://www.emspeaker.fr/home_ger.html |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
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The 15 cm refers to the outside mounting flange dimension, actually 15.5 cm. The cone itself is 4" and the standard measurement of 1/2 the surround gives 4 1/2 ". The unit is referred to as 4" on the price list. And I do agree with Tinitus that 4-5" is about the right size for a mid.
This is a 4 1/2" on powerful steroids; I completely agree that one driver is preferable unless you have some particular reason for dispersion shaping that would require two drivers. With our low 2nd order crossover, the unit shows no signs of stress at any level I'd ever play it at. Two are definitely not needed. We did listen to the original larger Revelator mid; I think the newer smaller one would be the better choice than the larger, as shown, especially with the smoother high end. The low end power handling of the smaller SS might be an issue, as might the low impedance if you use two. I still suspect the AT is better than either, but have only heard the larger. I have no doubt though that the SS would be very satisfactory. Incidentally the tweeter we're using is the 2905/9000 Revelator, which mates very well with the AT. |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: athens greece
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I was thinking using 6" to 7" mid driver,and not a 4" or5" because those 2 mids working in a WWMTM arrangement will perform on open air,so i think there is a need for bigger moving surfuce of the cone,but maybe i am wrong and a 4" or 5" will work fine.HOW ABOUT USING A 4" AND A 6" OR 7"( of the same manufacturer ofcourse)TOGETHER?Theoritically we receive a more extented frequency response but is this compination creating problems?This could also happen with bass drivers as well?using a 15"and a 12" together ?
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
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Two 6.5" units will have much more dynamics than a single 4-5" driver and depending on the crossing you probably will need that extra excursion as well.
Using a 4" in tandem with a 7" is not wise unless you highpass the 4".. otherwise that little fellow will run out of steam before the 7" and that will limit dynamics. /Peter |
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