Hello all,
Having purchased a trends audio TA10.1, I have been looking for a pair of easy to drive speakers to accompany them. After looking around retail I found that due to my circumstances (20 year old full time student) I was not in the financial position to buy any sort of horn/single driver speaker retail.
So with no DIY experience beyond lego (my father is a carpenter however) I'm planning to build myself a pair of Zigmahornets (the 6moons review was very convincing). However I'm pretty sure that the lack of bass in these units would annoy me. My question is: would it be feasible to increase the dimensions of the Zigmahornet and use a larger drive unit (a fostex FE167E instead of the FE103)? Would I need extra damping or the like? Any advice would be appreciated!
Having purchased a trends audio TA10.1, I have been looking for a pair of easy to drive speakers to accompany them. After looking around retail I found that due to my circumstances (20 year old full time student) I was not in the financial position to buy any sort of horn/single driver speaker retail.
So with no DIY experience beyond lego (my father is a carpenter however) I'm planning to build myself a pair of Zigmahornets (the 6moons review was very convincing). However I'm pretty sure that the lack of bass in these units would annoy me. My question is: would it be feasible to increase the dimensions of the Zigmahornet and use a larger drive unit (a fostex FE167E instead of the FE103)? Would I need extra damping or the like? Any advice would be appreciated!
You'd be better off over on the Full Range section of the forum.
However... scaling boxes isn't usually a good idea. But there are plenty of designs out there for easy to build boxes using larger drivers that frankly will give better performance. The Zig is good for what it is, but it's not ideally optimised.
As an example, this is my current MLTL for the 167. The box is lined from the top to just below the driver. It's solid to 40Hz. Mine are in baltic birch ply, but you could use MDF or chipboard / particleboard if you can't afford the ply.
Bob Brines also sells very detailed & refined plans for MLTL & now BR cabinets: http://www.geocities.com/rbrines1/
Other examples: Martin King's project 2 ML TQWT: http://www.quarter-wave.com/Project02/Project02.html (the 167 is a stright replacement for the defunct 164 he used.
If you wanted a horn-type box, there are plenty to choose from here too: www.frugal-horn.com
Also, the infamous (and very effective) BIB: www.zillaspeak.com/bib.asp
Best wishes
Scott
However... scaling boxes isn't usually a good idea. But there are plenty of designs out there for easy to build boxes using larger drivers that frankly will give better performance. The Zig is good for what it is, but it's not ideally optimised.
As an example, this is my current MLTL for the 167. The box is lined from the top to just below the driver. It's solid to 40Hz. Mine are in baltic birch ply, but you could use MDF or chipboard / particleboard if you can't afford the ply.
Bob Brines also sells very detailed & refined plans for MLTL & now BR cabinets: http://www.geocities.com/rbrines1/
Other examples: Martin King's project 2 ML TQWT: http://www.quarter-wave.com/Project02/Project02.html (the 167 is a stright replacement for the defunct 164 he used.
If you wanted a horn-type box, there are plenty to choose from here too: www.frugal-horn.com
Also, the infamous (and very effective) BIB: www.zillaspeak.com/bib.asp
Best wishes
Scott
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Oh wow thanks so much Scottmoose, your MLTL design is fantastic, almost exactly what i was looking for! Man the ethusiasm of fellow audiophiles never fails to astound me!
A couple of further questions though: what did you use to line the box with, and also (if this is not to specific hehe) what did you use (and where did you get) the speaker binding posts and what did you use to connect that too the driver.
Sorry about the questions, I'm just trying to avoid mistakes haha. Thanks again!
A couple of further questions though: what did you use to line the box with, and also (if this is not to specific hehe) what did you use (and where did you get) the speaker binding posts and what did you use to connect that too the driver.
Sorry about the questions, I'm just trying to avoid mistakes haha. Thanks again!
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