good scanspeak combos

[slr 5000]

hi fello audio buffs i was wondering if anyone had any experiance with the following drivers in a floorstanding speaker im about to start a project and want to use the scanspeak revelator drivers the combination im thinking about using is revelator 26/8861t 10"for bass the 15m/4531k for mid and the tweeter will be a 2904/7100 can anyone tell me if these drivers will go well together cheers

[circuitscc]

Hi,

Your selection is almost identical to my setup. Wonder what crossover will you use? This component not only defines the crossover frequencies, it also characterizes the phase (coherence).

[slr 5000]

hi mate i havent worked out any crossover yet im fairly new to diy and at the moment im just trying to determin if these drivers will work well together any advice i could get would be much appreciated cheers

[Jay_WJ]

If this is your first time to design speakers from scratch, don't aim too high. Start by building, say, your bedroom speakers with inexpensive components. By doing this, you can learn all kinds of skills needed to make speakers sound good to your ear. Then you'll be ready to build your reference quality speakers.

[fpara]

You may need an L-pad for this setup, the tweeter is somewhat sensitive.

[slr 5000]

hi thanks for the advice so far what is an L-PAD? is there another tweeter you guys could suggest if this ones a problem i was thinking about using the d3004/6600 instead if its a better match. do the 26w/8861t00 and the 15m/4531k00 go together well . im not that experianced with diy so im going to get madisound to design me a crossover instead of attempting it myself .hve any of you guys used their crossover service and if so were the results good also what should i look for when choosing drivers for example should the sensytivity be matching or is there a bit of leeway cheers

[fpara]

On L-pads:
http://www.bcae1.com/lpad.htm

[FullThrottleRic]

Originally posted by slr 5000
what is an L-PAD?

That right there would suggest to me as has already been mentioned you would be better off starting with something small/simple/cheap

The 15M and 26W would not be my first choices to work togeather, the 15 is a dedicated midrange with very little linear excursion and not much low frequency output. The 26 is a dedicated woofer, with ragged upper response and a whacking great step in output at 750Hz that would be tricky to correct with a passive crossover, especially if you havn't done many before. Long story short they would struggle to reach each other without running them right to the limits of what they are capable of.

Start by building one of the small two way projects on either Zaph or Troels' websites...
www.zaphaudio.com
http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/Diy_Lou...r_Projects.htm
Then mess about with them! Change the crossover slightly and see what happens, you'll learn a lot more than picking some drivers and asking someone else to do the design, if you want to that is

If you still want to go ahead with the all Scanspeak project let us know, we'll do what we can to help

[slr 5000]

hi mate thanks for your advice what i really want to do is build a project using scanspeak drivers incorperating one of there 10"drivers for bass an alternative for me would be to use a ss 18w/8545 for mid a 25w/8565 for bass and a d2904/9800 for the tweeter its the same as a eve11 but using a 10" for bass instead of the ss 8"21w/8555 does this sound like a better combo i could then use the eve11 crossover design and just change it to suit the ss 10" instead of the 8" is there any alternative drivers you guys could suggest using the ss25w/8555 or the 26w/8861too as a starting point for a 3 way floorstanding project i know i should start with an easy er project first but i would prefer to start with something that im going to be happy with once finnished and spend the money and time on it rather than waste money experimenting with a desighn that im not going to be happy with when its finnished cheers

[Jay_WJ]

There's a reason why we suggest trying an easy and inexpensive design first. I understand that you want to have the best possible sounding speakers without any wasteful trials and errors. We all once wanted that We didn't want to waste our money and time, either.

If I were you, I wouldn't buy the Madisound design service for this extremely high-end speaker project. I don't believe that they make the same level of efforts and pay the same amount of attention to the details as DIYers do for their own projects. And I don't think they actually build the design baffle to measure in-box responses and run the crossover simulation on the result. They will only provide a routine, CAD-generated design.

Even if you don't have a measurement setup and thus has to rely on computer simulations, you can do much better than that if you make suffcient efforts.

Be patient and learn from experience. This is not a waste of time and money at all. You can build speakers that sound "right" to your ear earlier than you may expect.

For example, here's what I did over the last several months:
http://www.geocities.com/woove99/Spkrbldg/