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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
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Does anyone have any measured specs on the HM130C0s, or any information they could give me? I recently purchased a pair that seem to be new aside from a persistent smell of cigarette smoke, and I have yet to assemble a good measuring jig.
Come to think of it, does anyone know how to get the smell of tobacco out of carbon fiber cones? |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
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__________________
What the hell are you screamin' for? Every five minutes there's a bomb or somethin'! I'm leavin! bzzzz! Droggon Attack! |
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#3 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Scottish Borders
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Quote:
8ohm Fs=46Hz 50W 90db/W 25mm VCdiam 7ohm min imp 6r2 Re 0.39mH VCinductance 11mmVC length Kapton former 1layer VC 84diam*15thk magnet 0.34kg magnet 1.1T flux 5.97 BL 5mm gap height 3mm Xmax 1.78*10^-3 Cms 3.6 Qms 0.34 Qes 0.31 Qts 0.55 kg/S Rms 6.9g Mms 0.85dm^2 Sd 18dm^3 (L) Vas @Cas 1.4kg speaker weight 115.5 baffle hole diam. This is tight, and my long port that the rear of the speaker had to fire through seemed restrictive, so I added a taper and generous radius at the back to help the "sound" get out & into the box. Since this is intended to be a mid range unit, T/S should be of little relevance because you should not be running it that low to produce significant bass output. But with Xmax=3mm it could double up as a low quality Bass/Mid (what a waste). It deserves to have at least a 210co to support it. It also goes fairly high (and still smooth) for a mid to allow integration with the HD-3P which had to cross at 6kHz. The smell must be volatiles in the deposits. These evaporate and you "smell" them. If you warm the speaker gently you can evaporate the volatiles more quickly. Most of this speaker is water proof. I wonder if you want to risk washing it with "gentle for your hands" washing up liquid and a gentle scrubbing action with a fine bristle brush and a couple of rinse brushes afterwards.
__________________
regards Andrew T. |
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#4 | |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Chatham, England
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Quote:
__________________
Al I conceive of nothing, in religion, science or philosophy, that is more than the proper thing to wear, for a while. Charles Fort |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
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maybe isopropyl alcahol is worth considering, I know its used in situations where you dont want residue.
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#6 |
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diyAudio Chief Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Athens-Greece
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I had 4 of them (2 for each speaker, flush mounted) on a DIY monitor pair of mine, along with a planar HF unit on their side. I have a measurement of their FR, but its for 2 HMs and a little off axis. They include the particular box diffraction etc. I am posting it here, maybe it can be indicative to you somehow. Subjectively their signature, is a fast, clean, and a bit dark sound. Keep in mind, A' class quality I am talking. Plot's horizontal gray divisions are indicating 1dB each. One of the very useful, very high value for money, lamented Audax units along some of its HDA brethren.
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#7 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
I was hoping to use these with a Neo3PDR, so I appreciate the info. What sort of box were you using? Also, would a 100hz xover point be acceptable? |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Chief Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Athens-Greece
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Bass reflex, kinda short and deep. 100Hz? Gonna use em in a 3way? Or with a mono sub? Way easy for the HMs, the 100s. I was using em doing the bass too. They were hitting 45Hz -3dB, still clean when loud.
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#9 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
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#10 |
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diyAudio Chief Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Athens-Greece
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Sealed box = best bass in a box. Stereo subs sound better bcs they drive the room modes better. Good choices.
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