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Old 26th September 2007, 07:34 AM   #1
rinx is offline rinx  Estonia
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Default What to choose?!

Hej!
I am a guy from estonia and looking for really good speakercomponents. Its gonna be nice project (sry, if I am doing some mistakes in english)...I already have bass, but what I am looking is midrange/midbass and tweeter. I did some research, so I have choosen some speakers...just let me know what would be best choice.

Midrange/midbass:


http://www.madisound.com/catalog/PDF/audax/ap130z0.pdf

http://www.madisound.com/catalog/PDF...p13wg00-08.pdf

http://www.madisound.com/catalog/PDF/pl11mh09-08e.pdf

http://www.madisound.com/catalog/PDF...11sg49-08e.pdf

http://www.madisound.com/catalog/PDF...ess/830860.pdf

..and tweeters:

http://www.madisound.com/catalog/PDF...25tg05-04e.pdf

http://www.madisound.com/catalog/PDF/morel/dms%2020.pdf

http://www.madisound.com/catalog/PDF...vers/ft28d.pdf

http://www.madisound.com/catalog/PDF...ess/812687.pdf

http://www.madisound.com/catalog/PDF...ess/811830.pdf





....just let me know what would be good choice and WHY?! And have these used in some really good and excpencive projects.

THANK YOU
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Old 27th September 2007, 12:10 AM   #2
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I recommend that you go to http://www.zaphaudio.com and take a look. In there are a number of published designs, plus driver test data. Not many of the drivers you listed are posted there, but this will give you a sense of what to look for in a high quality driver.

Another website of interest is Mark K's project website. Please do a google search.

Finally, for the drivers you specified, you can perform google searches to try to see what others have done. Zaph makes the point that some older drivers, such as the Vifa's you listed, have had running production changes. This means that the driver you buy today can be different than the one in a published design you're reading about. If this happens, you will not achieve the results of the original innovator.

The way to avoid this unhappy situation is to either stick with proven designs with drivers that have been consistent, or be prepared to invest time/money in testing. The latter assumes you possess the experience to know what to change based on test data results. I do not yet possess such wisdom.
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Old 27th September 2007, 07:53 AM   #3
rinx is offline rinx  Estonia
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Thank you very much for this webpage. I already tried to find some projects, that somebody have done but using just the google and putting the driver name-it wount give me any good answer.

R>R
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Old 27th September 2007, 09:19 AM   #4
Andy G is offline Andy G  Australia
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there are quite a few projects listed at
http://www.partsexpress.com/projects...e/projects.cfm

http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/Diy_Lou...r_Projects.htm

http://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/


you may also like to look at some of sites listed on this page.
http://members.optusnet.com.au/~gradds55/diy_webs.htm
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Old 27th September 2007, 04:33 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally posted by rinx
Thank you very much for this webpage. I already tried to find some projects, that somebody have done but using just the google and putting the driver name-it wount give me any good answer.

R>R
Some websites, such as Zaph's, are configured to not be read by Google. What I do is consider a driver, than either use the search utility here or use Google advanced search to scan the diyaudio domain. Usually, that will lead to a project, discussion, or some website that I otherwise wouldn't have found.
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Old 27th September 2007, 04:35 PM   #6
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Here's another one to go check out. Very nice description on how to interpret distortion test charts.

http://www.markk.claub.net/

A little light on the project library, but hey people have jobs to go do.
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Old 27th September 2007, 07:34 PM   #7
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You might take a look at Jay_WJ's site here:

http://www.geocities.com/woove99/Spkrbldg/

I am in the process of building the Usher 8945P + SEAS 27TBFC/G design, and it promises to be outstanding. Plus Jay is always available by email with tips and advice. A good site and a good person behind it.
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Old 28th September 2007, 12:28 AM   #8
rinx is offline rinx  Estonia
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Thank you so much so far for the websites. I already checkt some of them and picked up couple of tweeters and midrage I am gonna use. But one thing I am still intrested is, if anybody know some projects with Fostex tweeter FT28D. It was also in my list, but i didnt find any good description or project for this driver. Si if anybody knows something about it, let me know.

Ringo from Estonia
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Old 29th September 2007, 05:12 AM   #9
rinx is offline rinx  Estonia
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Well, now I have question. If I am doing 3-way speakers and cutoffs would be approx. 200 and 2500-3500, should I use for that midbass or special midrange?! I am just a littlebit confused. Midbass's are usually plaing to 2-3k but midranges approx. 4-5k. Si what would be better?!
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Old 29th September 2007, 11:07 AM   #10
Shaun is offline Shaun  South Africa
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Quote:
Originally posted by rinx
If I am doing 3-way speakers and cutoffs would be approx. 200 and 2500-3500, should I use for that midbass or special midrange?! I am just a littlebit confused. Midbass's are usually plaing to 2-3k but midranges approx. 4-5k. Si what would be better?!
Hi Rinx. The answer to your question is not simple. But let's start by saying that your low frequency crossover target will restrict your choices severely. Most dedicated Hi-Fi midranges do not operate that low. But even this statement is simplistic; the range that a driver covers is determined by its size and power handling & excursion capabilities (you seem to have discovered this yourself).

So: I would say that you should probably start looking in the 5" to 7" (8", even, depending on what kind of system you are planning) range for drivers that will be unstressed at 200Hz. These would typically be mid-bass drivers (but not necessarily so).

Two factors determine how well a driver operates at the top end: (1) is cone breakup and (2) is off-axis response. Cone breakup can be spotted in the FR curve where the response gets ragged at the top end. In the off-axis response, the top end drops off earlier as one moves off axis. Ideally, one should cross over to the tweeter before either of these set in. But, in practise, there will inevitably be compromises made.

The above is fairly generalised info. You need to decide how to apply the guidelines in your own system based on your design goals and/or the drivers you use.

I highly recommend reading up on other projects to learn how others have managed the constraints, and what results they got.

HTH
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