Available at PE for About $70 odd, this is not a cheap driver.
I saw it a few times but never found any user input for the driver. Lots of people asking about it but no real feedback, so here I am with the first "subjective" impressions:
1) Build Quality: Pretty solid build. This is one heavy 6.5" driver with a realitvely small magnet (in terms of weight of magnet vs basket). The weird thing is that the fit and finish are not what you expect from a $70 driver... Paint overflow is evident in a few places. Binding posts are not very robust. It seems like a kit was bought from an OEM and put together (bolted up) in a basement somewhere... On the flip side, the materials that count, VC former/ Cone/ Spider/ Surround are all good build quality. And thats the important part.
2) Installation: Not the easiest to install, the rear can be described as 3 thick metal rings bolted to one another by hex bolts. (See the picture at PE). However due to the thickness of the rings, the rear air gap (exhaust) is constricted due to limited space. Thus when mounting on a thich baffle, you could suffocate the driver. Best mounted flush or thin baffle (use 1/8" aluminm baffle ?) If you solder the connections to the driver make sure the wire does not twist and break the posts away, they are not very robust as mentioned.
More later:
I saw it a few times but never found any user input for the driver. Lots of people asking about it but no real feedback, so here I am with the first "subjective" impressions:
1) Build Quality: Pretty solid build. This is one heavy 6.5" driver with a realitvely small magnet (in terms of weight of magnet vs basket). The weird thing is that the fit and finish are not what you expect from a $70 driver... Paint overflow is evident in a few places. Binding posts are not very robust. It seems like a kit was bought from an OEM and put together (bolted up) in a basement somewhere... On the flip side, the materials that count, VC former/ Cone/ Spider/ Surround are all good build quality. And thats the important part.
2) Installation: Not the easiest to install, the rear can be described as 3 thick metal rings bolted to one another by hex bolts. (See the picture at PE). However due to the thickness of the rings, the rear air gap (exhaust) is constricted due to limited space. Thus when mounting on a thich baffle, you could suffocate the driver. Best mounted flush or thin baffle (use 1/8" aluminm baffle ?) If you solder the connections to the driver make sure the wire does not twist and break the posts away, they are not very robust as mentioned.
More later:
Continuing on the last post:
3) Design: Originally, this was a 2 way , with a 6.75" Swan (Stryke 071) with a Vifa dome tweeter. The sound was good but the bass drivers fail twice mechanically. (Coil rubbing plus flex wie disconnecting under the dust cap. Since I wanted a replacement to be "dropped" in, I considered several 6.5-7" drivers. Finally the Dynavox seemed to fit the bill in terms of basket size etc. I put it in my wish list for a while... finally WINisd'd it and placed the order after delibrating for a few months.
4) Crossover: The Stryke had a 2nd order 4k X-over. It was reasonably detailed but not all that smooth. After Dropping in the Dynavox... Initially, the sound was midbass heavy, ( I didnt expect it to "sing" with a non-optimized crossover but still...so I began "de-fanging" the crossover untill I removed it completely... I have to say it sounds better this way. No crossover whatsoever.
5) Subjective sound impression: It sounds pretty good... I'd say the mids sound like the Vifa P13's I have. Smooth, warm and not harsh. Did I say , not harsh? The downside is, it is not ultra detailed... so you take your pick.
6) The imaging is just awesome... My wife commented that it seems like the singer is sitting between the 2 speakers. It is very holographic (again imaging), I hear things from the side of my head and even behind my head... !!. Handles power pretty well. I have it hooked to a 200wpc Forte Power amp. Takes in a lot of power and amplifier clips before this guy distorts. Then again placed in a 0.25cuFt enclosure, I'd expect that.
Overall I am pleased with the driver. 4/5 for Sound. 3/5 for value. 5/5 for imaging. Overall I give it a 3.75/5. If it were priced at $35-40, I would have given it an easy 4.5/5.
3) Design: Originally, this was a 2 way , with a 6.75" Swan (Stryke 071) with a Vifa dome tweeter. The sound was good but the bass drivers fail twice mechanically. (Coil rubbing plus flex wie disconnecting under the dust cap. Since I wanted a replacement to be "dropped" in, I considered several 6.5-7" drivers. Finally the Dynavox seemed to fit the bill in terms of basket size etc. I put it in my wish list for a while... finally WINisd'd it and placed the order after delibrating for a few months.
4) Crossover: The Stryke had a 2nd order 4k X-over. It was reasonably detailed but not all that smooth. After Dropping in the Dynavox... Initially, the sound was midbass heavy, ( I didnt expect it to "sing" with a non-optimized crossover but still...so I began "de-fanging" the crossover untill I removed it completely... I have to say it sounds better this way. No crossover whatsoever.
5) Subjective sound impression: It sounds pretty good... I'd say the mids sound like the Vifa P13's I have. Smooth, warm and not harsh. Did I say , not harsh? The downside is, it is not ultra detailed... so you take your pick.
6) The imaging is just awesome... My wife commented that it seems like the singer is sitting between the 2 speakers. It is very holographic (again imaging), I hear things from the side of my head and even behind my head... !!. Handles power pretty well. I have it hooked to a 200wpc Forte Power amp. Takes in a lot of power and amplifier clips before this guy distorts. Then again placed in a 0.25cuFt enclosure, I'd expect that.
Overall I am pleased with the driver. 4/5 for Sound. 3/5 for value. 5/5 for imaging. Overall I give it a 3.75/5. If it were priced at $35-40, I would have given it an easy 4.5/5.
I bought a pair of the woofers and tweeters about 7 years ago in hopes of building a nice pair of speakers, but it never completely panned out. It seems alot of people are scared to actually buy them and try them. With the Dynavox tweeter, and the simple x-over I made, I must say that the sound was quite nice. Very similar to the Dynaudio sound that I love. The trickiest part for me was gettign them into the proper sized cabinets so that I could drive them without them bottoming out. The sound is very nice, warm and VERY happy with vocals. Imaging was very good as well, but its a project I ended up discarding due to space and time and money.
Glad to see someone bit the bullet and tried them!
Glad to see someone bit the bullet and tried them!
Dynavox LW5004
page 22, the crossover is drawn wrong
https://www.parts-express.com/pdf/SSV11WebBook.pdf
Is this the same woofer? Jantzen JA-5006?
http://www.jantzen-audio.com/wp-con...en-Audio-JA5006-JA2806_v3-Kit-Instruction.pdf
Wolf
Anyone familiar with Dynavox woofers? -
Techtalk Speaker Building, Audio, Video Discussion Forum
Any more information? I've only seen 1 Moon Drops-Nick S.
(the Jantzen JA-5006-maybe2?) crossovers.
Somewhere on PE forum someone posted they used 2 LW5004 , down into the 30's.
page 22, the crossover is drawn wrong
https://www.parts-express.com/pdf/SSV11WebBook.pdf
Is this the same woofer? Jantzen JA-5006?
http://www.jantzen-audio.com/wp-con...en-Audio-JA5006-JA2806_v3-Kit-Instruction.pdf
Wolf
Anyone familiar with Dynavox woofers? -
Techtalk Speaker Building, Audio, Video Discussion Forum
Any more information? I've only seen 1 Moon Drops-Nick S.
(the Jantzen JA-5006-maybe2?) crossovers.
Somewhere on PE forum someone posted they used 2 LW5004 , down into the 30's.
Fritz Mini / Dynavox LW5004
fritz mini
"The Fritz Minis are two-way speakers that use the Far Eastern Dynavox 5-inch woofer and a Morel MDT-32 soft-dome tweeter. The MDT-32 tends to be used in speakers costing three or four times as much as the Minis, so Fritz gets very high marks for not going cheap on the tweeter. At first glance, the woofer appears to be a knockoff of the famous Dynaudio 15W75 midrange/woofer—it has a similar polypropylene cone, cast spider frame, and large (3-inch) voice coil—but the similarities are only cosmetic. A comparison of the specs reveals that the Dynaudio and the Dynavox are completely different, but when it comes down to sound, the Dynavox is impressively warm and very satisfying, even after long-term listening. "
fritz mini
"The Fritz Minis are two-way speakers that use the Far Eastern Dynavox 5-inch woofer and a Morel MDT-32 soft-dome tweeter. The MDT-32 tends to be used in speakers costing three or four times as much as the Minis, so Fritz gets very high marks for not going cheap on the tweeter. At first glance, the woofer appears to be a knockoff of the famous Dynaudio 15W75 midrange/woofer—it has a similar polypropylene cone, cast spider frame, and large (3-inch) voice coil—but the similarities are only cosmetic. A comparison of the specs reveals that the Dynaudio and the Dynavox are completely different, but when it comes down to sound, the Dynavox is impressively warm and very satisfying, even after long-term listening. "
Correction- a single LW5004 in 15 ltrs vented yields an F3 of 32Hz. This is the alignment I've referred to many a time.
I heard this in the 'Ze Clonads' built by Shawn A over on PETT back around 2007/2008. He paired it with an Usher 9950, decked out in Madrone Burl veneer, and they sounded amazing.
For my Vijon project shown above, I went simple sealed in the end after the MAPD did not pan out well for bass extension. These are a design I hold quite dear, and have never published the schematic.
Later,
Wolf
I heard this in the 'Ze Clonads' built by Shawn A over on PETT back around 2007/2008. He paired it with an Usher 9950, decked out in Madrone Burl veneer, and they sounded amazing.
For my Vijon project shown above, I went simple sealed in the end after the MAPD did not pan out well for bass extension. These are a design I hold quite dear, and have never published the schematic.
Later,
Wolf
Attachments
Dynavox 5 incher -
Techtalk Speaker Building, Audio, Video Discussion Forum
post #14
"01-02-2010, 08:53 PM
Re: Dynavox 5 incher
As to Wolf's 32 hz claim, here is one from the PE review of the Dynavox 5 incher. Most interesting and verifies Wolf's measurements.
-----
Good woofer, but must match with high-end tweeter
Friday, August 1, 2008
Danny V. from Bark River, MI.
Many moons ago, my friend and I built a two-way floorstander for his "party room". I am a professional designer with a custom loudspeaker hobby business, so I hope that you trust my calculations. We built a 20.53 liter cabinet that measured internally at 6"w.X 6.5"d.X 32 1/8"h. We used a 1.5" dia.X 3.5" port tube for an F3 of 33 Hz. We put 2"high runners on either side of the bottom of the cabinet to lift the speaker off of the floor and ported the speaker at the bottom (similar to older Polk Audio power-port designs). We then experimented with crossover points and decided on a fourth-order filter at 1,800 Hz with a third-order low pass. Although the low x-max of 3 mm. won't allow for high SPL's , The sound was so awesome that we began to laugh when we listened to them...(He calls me "the mad scientist"). I won't tell you about the tweeter that we used,but I would use a high-quality Morel or Scan Speak driver. Seriously people, I have built MANY loudspeakers and, if you experiment a little, you can get these babies to sing! Very neutral sound but are only effective to 2,000 Hz max. Better than most 5" Morels at a cheaper price. If you are into experimenting and can afford the cost, please try our design! You won't be discouraged!!! In this design, maximum RMS is 100 watts of high-current power into 8 ohms. Hope you have as much fun as we did!!! "
Impressive either way 1 or 2 woofers.
Techtalk Speaker Building, Audio, Video Discussion Forum
post #14
"01-02-2010, 08:53 PM
Re: Dynavox 5 incher
As to Wolf's 32 hz claim, here is one from the PE review of the Dynavox 5 incher. Most interesting and verifies Wolf's measurements.
-----
Good woofer, but must match with high-end tweeter
Friday, August 1, 2008
Danny V. from Bark River, MI.
Many moons ago, my friend and I built a two-way floorstander for his "party room". I am a professional designer with a custom loudspeaker hobby business, so I hope that you trust my calculations. We built a 20.53 liter cabinet that measured internally at 6"w.X 6.5"d.X 32 1/8"h. We used a 1.5" dia.X 3.5" port tube for an F3 of 33 Hz. We put 2"high runners on either side of the bottom of the cabinet to lift the speaker off of the floor and ported the speaker at the bottom (similar to older Polk Audio power-port designs). We then experimented with crossover points and decided on a fourth-order filter at 1,800 Hz with a third-order low pass. Although the low x-max of 3 mm. won't allow for high SPL's , The sound was so awesome that we began to laugh when we listened to them...(He calls me "the mad scientist"). I won't tell you about the tweeter that we used,but I would use a high-quality Morel or Scan Speak driver. Seriously people, I have built MANY loudspeakers and, if you experiment a little, you can get these babies to sing! Very neutral sound but are only effective to 2,000 Hz max. Better than most 5" Morels at a cheaper price. If you are into experimenting and can afford the cost, please try our design! You won't be discouraged!!! In this design, maximum RMS is 100 watts of high-current power into 8 ohms. Hope you have as much fun as we did!!! "
Impressive either way 1 or 2 woofers.
Tks Wolf, the Baronettes tower look great. Reading the thread.
The lw6004pmr and their 8 and 5 siblings seems to be discontinued.
There are three new 6" models, all cheaper and with smaller magnets. Looking at the specs, and the ones in PE in the web site do not accurately match the manufacturer specs.
Below is a comparison of all existing 6" Dynavox
Seeking advise in what will be the best driver to get. I am planning a .5 ft3 vented two way with a Xt25 and a 6.5" Monacor WG-300
Tks in advance
pd I will try to add a the frequency curves later
The lw6004pmr and their 8 and 5 siblings seems to be discontinued.
There are three new 6" models, all cheaper and with smaller magnets. Looking at the specs, and the ones in PE in the web site do not accurately match the manufacturer specs.
Below is a comparison of all existing 6" Dynavox
Seeking advise in what will be the best driver to get. I am planning a .5 ft3 vented two way with a Xt25 and a 6.5" Monacor WG-300
Tks in advance
pd I will try to add a the frequency curves later
Attachments
I would not think the magnets are smaller. In fact- if anything, the magnets are larger. The BL went up from the old to the newer models.
PMR-N and PMR-NC are supposed to be the same, just a frame difference. If you had a square tweeter and wanted to butt the edges together, I'd choose the NC. Since you don't, that leaves the N and HR-N.
Modelling with the 5" (already loaded in Unibox), for those reading...
The PMR-N tuned to 42 Hz in the same 15 ltrs yields an F3 of 36Hz, but it's about -1dB from 200Hz to the knee before rolloff whereas the former model 5" had an inherent rise to the knee. This will change the tonality, and likely is similar to the old vs new 6".
My guess is that half a cube might be a bit small for the driver. You might want to look up 'Simplicity' by Eric Levenchuck (brkitup) over on PE too. He built with the 6HR-N in a sealed box.
The driver FR is likely to be of more concern for your build, as the honeycomb-kevlar does have a different FR curve to the poly-mica.
I'll do some modelling....
Wolf
PMR-N and PMR-NC are supposed to be the same, just a frame difference. If you had a square tweeter and wanted to butt the edges together, I'd choose the NC. Since you don't, that leaves the N and HR-N.
Modelling with the 5" (already loaded in Unibox), for those reading...
The PMR-N tuned to 42 Hz in the same 15 ltrs yields an F3 of 36Hz, but it's about -1dB from 200Hz to the knee before rolloff whereas the former model 5" had an inherent rise to the knee. This will change the tonality, and likely is similar to the old vs new 6".
My guess is that half a cube might be a bit small for the driver. You might want to look up 'Simplicity' by Eric Levenchuck (brkitup) over on PE too. He built with the 6HR-N in a sealed box.
The driver FR is likely to be of more concern for your build, as the honeycomb-kevlar does have a different FR curve to the poly-mica.
I'll do some modelling....
Wolf
My mistake, I thought there was a 2 woofer Dynavox LW5004 speaker.
For a 5 inch driver to go into the LOW 30's is remarkable- verified twice, see some previous posts.
Would it work in a decware DNA Horn- (BLH)
from post#1
Decware DNA Horn
"The main driver chamber was estimated to have a volume of 16.1 liters, and the throat hole leading from the chamber to the start of the horn passage is assumed to be 2.5 in dia."
For a 5 inch driver to go into the LOW 30's is remarkable- verified twice, see some previous posts.
Would it work in a decware DNA Horn- (BLH)
from post#1
Decware DNA Horn
"The main driver chamber was estimated to have a volume of 16.1 liters, and the throat hole leading from the chamber to the start of the horn passage is assumed to be 2.5 in dia."
The XT25BG60 or XT25TG30?
This will matter. The TG30 is best above about 2.3kHz second order with taming of the Fs The BG60 will likely be okay to at or just below 2kHz due to the larger chamber and lower Fs, when also taming its Fs spike.
The HR-N has a peak at about 1.3kHz, and a dip to 1.6kHz, and a pronounced rise to breakup at nominal level above there at 4kHz. Some clever knee-shaping could be used here to get to 2.1-2.2, but it might be cost prohibitive. The right baffle width could comp the first peak there, so I would aim that a bit.
The PMR-N would be MUCH easier to use on paper with only a small dip at 1.6kHz. The baffle and diffraction will mess that up unfortunately. You'll likely end up with a dip where you don't want it in this case due to the natural loss-peak-dip-peak-leveloff shape of the curve.
I think the HR-N might be better in application, and cut it hard before 3k to suppress the breakup.
Also of note- The Dynavox drivers all tend to favor LR6 acoustic alignments in practice and use.
The 5" PMR was actually better in FR, and all I did was notch it's response and let it roll off naturally at about 3k without a low-pass applied. The contrasting planar I used needed 4th order network to sum appropriately.
I think you'll enjoy them whichever you pick,
Wolf
This will matter. The TG30 is best above about 2.3kHz second order with taming of the Fs The BG60 will likely be okay to at or just below 2kHz due to the larger chamber and lower Fs, when also taming its Fs spike.
The HR-N has a peak at about 1.3kHz, and a dip to 1.6kHz, and a pronounced rise to breakup at nominal level above there at 4kHz. Some clever knee-shaping could be used here to get to 2.1-2.2, but it might be cost prohibitive. The right baffle width could comp the first peak there, so I would aim that a bit.
The PMR-N would be MUCH easier to use on paper with only a small dip at 1.6kHz. The baffle and diffraction will mess that up unfortunately. You'll likely end up with a dip where you don't want it in this case due to the natural loss-peak-dip-peak-leveloff shape of the curve.
I think the HR-N might be better in application, and cut it hard before 3k to suppress the breakup.
Also of note- The Dynavox drivers all tend to favor LR6 acoustic alignments in practice and use.
The 5" PMR was actually better in FR, and all I did was notch it's response and let it roll off naturally at about 3k without a low-pass applied. The contrasting planar I used needed 4th order network to sum appropriately.
I think you'll enjoy them whichever you pick,
Wolf
Hi Wolf,
I wanted to use the premade PE .5 ft3. My woodwork skills are basically nonexsitent. I will consider sealed.
I have no solid data regarding the size of the magnets other than the overall weight increase of the older unit, LW6004PMR, about 2 lb heavier than the new ones (5 lb vs 3 lb). My assumption was that some of the difference might be due to a different magnet as it does not seem that the older basket design can have two extra pounds of material. Also, the older unit has 20% more power rating than the newer one. That said, I might be completely wrong as my understanding of the speaker parameters is limited.
But it is really cool to know that the old and new, LW6004PMR and the LW6004PMR-N, are equivalent.
I had already decided to use the XT25BG60. The dual magnet, better behavior and higher efficiency are all plus specially considering that it is only $3 more.
I like the HR-N better also. In top of more suitable specs, the yellow cone looks prettier.
link to enclousure: Denovo Audio Knock-Down MDF 0.56 cu. ft. Bookshelf Speaker Cabinet
I wanted to use the premade PE .5 ft3. My woodwork skills are basically nonexsitent. I will consider sealed.
I have no solid data regarding the size of the magnets other than the overall weight increase of the older unit, LW6004PMR, about 2 lb heavier than the new ones (5 lb vs 3 lb). My assumption was that some of the difference might be due to a different magnet as it does not seem that the older basket design can have two extra pounds of material. Also, the older unit has 20% more power rating than the newer one. That said, I might be completely wrong as my understanding of the speaker parameters is limited.
But it is really cool to know that the old and new, LW6004PMR and the LW6004PMR-N, are equivalent.
I had already decided to use the XT25BG60. The dual magnet, better behavior and higher efficiency are all plus specially considering that it is only $3 more.
I like the HR-N better also. In top of more suitable specs, the yellow cone looks prettier.
link to enclousure: Denovo Audio Knock-Down MDF 0.56 cu. ft. Bookshelf Speaker Cabinet
Attachments
Last edited: