Vacuum veneering experience?

[topher_m]

Hi

I am contemplating investing $500 in a vacuum bag and pump for veneering. Do you have any experience with this?

I have read a lot on the PVA/iron method and contact cement but it seems vacuum veneering is the "true" recommended way by most of the people selling veneer (I assume the experts). I have read some wonderful advice on the other methods (thanks to all) but not much on vacuum bagging.

I know that Jim Salk vacuums an entire cabinet, side by side - this is the way I am interested in. It seems more expensive but more foolproof than the other methods.

How big of a bag do I need for a approx 24"x24"x16" cabinet?
Is implosion a real risk with a beefy cabinet (double wall, braced, etc)?
For an angled side do you tape the cawl in place until the vacuum holds it?

Any thoughts?

Thanks

[jbateman]

I bought a 4' x 8' ft bag of 30mil vinyl from an ebay seller for $125 a while back, and a used vacuum pump for $75...so you can save some money if you're willing to DIY a bit of it yourself.

I mainly do flat panels, as manipulating a large cabinet inside the bag can be rather difficult, especially with the glue, veneer, and caul. For the size box you mention, at least a 4 x 8 bag, and a 5 x 8 would be even better. Also keep in mind, just setting up a work space large enough to accomodate the thing can be impractical in a small shop.

joewoodworker.com has a lot of info on vacuum presses.

[tomtom]

Im not experienced in veeneering but i make my boards /surf-skate-kite-snow etc.../ by vacuum bagging. I mean when i laminate them with fibre glass and epoxy i use vacuum bagging.

There is a lot of sites - kite board building - where you can find info.

Just for start - old refrigerator compresor is very good pump for vacuum bagging and quality little thicker PE sleeve is good bag material. My english ist so good to explain my setup. But as i say its quite simple.

About box strenght- It will not implode imo - but there cannot be any hole on speaker obviously - you must do them after. Other wise bag will blow on hole.

What will be dificult part is glue and ammont of glue. Any more than optimal and it will be pushed above veeneer. It is actualy goal of vacuum baging pushing any more than optimum resin ammount to peel ply or breather.

I recommend you use some kind of peel ply that can be peeled from finished veener with residual glue. You must make some test before actual veenering

Good luck

Make some post about how it goes and feel free to ask

[ttruman]

Originally posted by topher_m
It seems more expensive but more foolproof than the other methods.

Hi topher,

In regards to the pva/iron method I can attest to its ease, successfulness and durability.

I choose pva/iron over contact cement/vacuum for several reasons. Limited shop floor space, inadequate ventilation, fairly big cabs, no time commitments, veneer positioning before commit and cost of owner ship.

Ventilation is a big one for me because contact is bad for the lungs and nervous system. The materials must be in a stable atmospheric environment (temperature and humidity) long before and during the veneer process. The only place I had the fit the bill was my basement.

You may have already considered these factors.