|
Home | Forums | Rules | Articles | diyAudio Store | Blogs | Gallery | Wiki | Register | Donations | FAQ | Calendar | Search | Today's Posts | Mark Forums Read | Search |
Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers |
|
Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.
Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving |
![]() |
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
![]() |
#1 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
|
![]()
anyone who can help me out with the schematics of bose acoustimass 10 series II.
thanks. |
![]() |
![]() |
#2 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Melbourne, Australia
|
I doubt it. Bose is one of the most maligned manufacturers on this site and I don't believe that anyone will have the schematics or the willingness to aid someone in modifying said manufacturers' equipment. And even though this is a DIY site, the general opinion would be that modifing it will not help, but you could sell it and buy twice as much "better" equipment for the money you obtain.
Simply posting the same question in different forums every 20 minutes is not going to gain you any friends either. That said, why do you want the schematic?
__________________
Jont. "It is impossible to build a fool proof system; because fools are so ingenious." |
![]() |
![]() |
#3 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
|
![]()
Hi Cloth Ears,
Sorry if I posted twice, still a little clumsy on posting, it’s the first time to participate in a forum. Why I need the schematics? Well the crossover burnt like fireworks. I try to attach some pictures. I need the specification of the burnt parts. Therefore I would truly appreciate if someone could help me out with the schematics or the details of the burnt parts. A picture in return might do as well. Thanks again buddies, hope you can help me. |
![]() |
![]() |
#4 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#5 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
|
It might not just be your crossover. check the output of your amplifier with a DC voltmeter.
Resistors can get incredibly hot and still be good. Burning a bit of glue is no big deal. Those ceramic ones are usually good until they crack, they usually melt themselves off the board first. If that happened to the crossover you should measure the voice coils in your speakers. I don't think they would have survived. Electrolytic capacitors are not the best for crossovers, neither are ferrite cored inductors, then placing all of said inductors in the same orientation causes a lot if interaction between them. The only thing I see here that doesn't make me cringe is the circuit board appears to be fibreglass. It's cheaper to do all of this filtering before the amplifier then you can use an amp of half the power instead of wasting it all in this heater board. Sorry mate, I think this crossover is the healthiest part of your system. If you can measure DC on your amplifier output and the voice coils are open circuit I suggest you finish the job in the back yard by lightly washing the whole system down with diesel then lighting it up. Please post it on Youtube. You could use any surviving speakers on your PC with a little amp. Are those light bulbs on the right? |
![]() |
![]() |
#6 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
|
Ooohh pretty xover (sarcasm)
The 'light bulbs' on the left could be overdrive protection, if they are faulty you could replace them with a wire link (just remember that excess volume will then cause driver damage). The small orange 'chips' on the right look like ptc's (thermistors) also for driver protection. See above coment for repair if faulty. Why they have used two types of protection is beyond me. The wire wound resistors are common and cheap. Might also pay to replace the electrolytic caps, known to leak in all bose equipment due to them using the cheapest parts available. |
![]() |
![]() |
#7 | |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Newcastle, Australia
|
Quote:
So the polyswitches and the bulbs act in conjuction, rather than being separate protection devices. If this is the case, then bypassing the bulbs with wire would negate all the protections, and almost certainly fry the drivers. |
|
![]() |
![]() |
#8 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
|
Ok, but it's not a valve amp so there should be no need for load protection of that degree.
Not like a transistor amp will go unstable with no load connected. If the system had two way speakers then maybe the bulb would be for the high pass and the polyswitch for the low pass. But that would be silly. Even for a marketing company such as bose that would be silly. That top bulb looks suss by the way. |
![]() |
![]() |
#9 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
|
It looks like a 5 channel high pass filter to me.
|
![]() |
![]() |
#10 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
|
Hi Buddies
Thru all my misery into trying to repair my sound system, I somehow start enjoying this forum, anyway that said. Indeed your right the crossover is most probably the healthiest part of my system. The main problem is in the back yard, the amplifier seems to be the main reason which created the fireworks in the crossover of my bose acoustimass 10 series II. Just fixed my back yard, still I wonder if someone can help me out with the value of the “LAMP FUSE” and were and can I buy them preferably online |
![]() |
![]() |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
How do I open a Bose Acoustimass 25 Series II | highviewvideo | Subwoofers | 22 | 22nd November 2017 03:32 PM |
Bose acoustimass | djronbxs | Subwoofers | 8 | 21st November 2007 01:11 AM |
Bose Acoustimass 10 Series II | kamagong | Multi-Way | 2 | 19th September 2007 01:31 AM |
New To Site? | Need Help? |