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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Tallinn, Estonia
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Finally got some hands on work done and the cabinets are taking physical form.
So please comment on the idea..... As you can for sure figure these are formed by piling mdf ring on top of eachother and gluing them together..... The speaker will be closed box standmounter with Seas Millennium as a tweeter and either Seas W17E002 or W18E001 as a woofer. **** One question also. How do you guys feel should I cover all the inner walls with bitumen damping (car audio stuff) or can I leave it as is and only cover it with 2mm felt. Ergo |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Calgary, Alberta
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But why, oh why, would you ever need subtitles to enjoy Baywatch overseas?
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Tallinn, Estonia
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It's Finnish television that has the subtitles....
As Tallinn (our capital) is just 80km south of Helsinki over the sea we are able to watch Finnish television broadcast over here. Ergo |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Northern California
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My guess would be 6mm or greater thickness felt and call it good. I doubt if you actually need much in the way of mechanical damping on the enclosure walls; the structure looks good as it is. Reduction of internal mid band reflections will perhaps be the most significant improvement you can make.
Cyclotronguy |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: North London
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I think the segmented cabinet is an excellent idea but then I would - I've designed my new speaker the same way (7th Veil Loudspeakers).
I'd go with the felt as Cyclotronguy suggested. The cabinet will probably be damped enough by its structure. Maybe you could leave the top or bottom plate so that it could be screwed or bolted on or off. That would give you a way of altering things if required. BTW, I don't have a photo of our new system as it's still with the MDF machinists but if you're interested in my original design and basic philosophy, you can check this page: The original 7th Veil System IV Loudspeaker |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Toronto
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Have you considered using threaded steel rod to hold the sections together and to help in the alignment? That should allow a huge amount of pressure to be added. If you are really clever, you could sharpen an end and make this your spikes which be extensions of the cabinet essentially. I have used these in work projects years ago and remember you can get practically any length cut to measure. You would want to coat the rod with glue or something so that it can not vibrate inside of the individual sections.
Nice concept by the way. I am very interested in how it turns out. Alvaius. |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: North London
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Interesting idea with the threaded steel rods. I'm having mine machined with holes for dowel pegs to be used as guides. Mind you, my cabinets are much smaller so a threaded steel rod thin enough would probably be too wobbly to stay vertical.
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#8 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Suomi
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Quote:
"Saat aina sen mitä haluat" "-Samaa mieltä" which pretty much translates to: "You will always get that which you want" "-I agree" quite a prophetic quote to freeze by chance
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Tallinn, Estonia
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alvaius
I tought about steel rods also but ultimately dropped the idea as there is a slight possibility that these will resonate and produce unwanted sounds...... The "added mass method" worked quite good also. These soapstones on top are about 50kg for both enclosure. The only thing I didn't consider at a right time was that the circles forming the box were not totally horisontally symmetrical.. so I should have kept them all only one way but I quess I flipped some of them when preparing for gluing. But still you get less than 1mm variation between parts and I hope it will not be too difficult to abrade with belt sander. Ergo |
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#10 |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Be careful lifting the thing... Rob Wells just abandoned his similar bass cabs because the MDF gave way mid board making it impossible to repair. The steel rod is a good idea -- you can always pot it to kill resonance.
dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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