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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Ontario
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I,m in the process of building a pair of Seas for my Neice and I notice some sibilance. I must admit that I have no idea how to correct for this. The drivers are P18RNX/P (H1350) woofer & 27TDFC (H1189). Except for the sibilance, they sound pretty good.
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2007
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I'm probably the last who should chime in and try to help, but I'm sure it would be of great help if you supplied details about your design.
If it's an existing DiY project can you post the link? If it was all your own design, can you post the x-over diagram? Peter |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Ontario
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This is one of Madisound's offerings. http://www.madisound.com/catalog/PDF/H1350-H1189.pdf
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2007
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according to this: http://www.madisound.com/catalog/pro...oducts_id=8232
"If you put the tweeter a little off to the side, then the distance from the tweeter dome to each side of the cabinet is different. This will spread out this edge refection over a wider frequency range, so you don't have a bigger problem at a certain frequency." "In order to further reduce edge reflections, you should consider routing the speakers into the cabinet until they are flush with the cabinet face." Also you could put some felt padding around the tweeter to reduce reflections off the baffle... Beyond that, you might have to start playing with the x-over components.... |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2007
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http://www.htguide.com/forum/showthread.php4?t=26856
If this link is accurate, then this speaker is made to be played against the wall since no BSC was accounted for. Meaning if you place the speaker away from the wall, you won't get enough low end (or too much high end). |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Wgtn
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Sounds like the tweeter may a bit 'hot'.
Try to contact Madisound about this and they should know how to tame the tweeter further. If you have a test tone CD, you may find out the sibilance frequency and this will help them to come out with a better solution. |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Wellington, New Zealand
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What is the woofer XO point?
How steep is the woofer LP? Could be the woofer is adding to the listening range and not the tweeter that is hot. One crude test I can think of is to use an equalizer, and wire only woofer / tweeter in turn (through the respective crossover and putting in a nominal resistor in replace of the other driver), and see if the sibilance is coming more from the tweeter or woofer. PS: I have a similar problem at the moment! David. |
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#8 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Wellington, New Zealand
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Hi GOWA,
salas posted this very useful piece of information on this post: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showt...38#post1239638 Quote:
My designs from now on will be to tilt this down. I've noticed Zaph does this via a shelving circuit before tweeter XO circuit (a resistor and low value inductor in parallel wired in series with the tweeter) as an alternative to mucking with L-Pads. David. |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Moderator
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Could your speakers be telling you the truth? Sibilance seems to be the rule, not the exception, on modern recordings and masterings.
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If there's a sucker born every minute, where do the rest of them come from? |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Wellington, New Zealand
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Hi GOWA,
Infact - read the whole post from the thread link I posted above. Esp. post #30 which makes a lot of sense to me and may help you. Cheers, David. |
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