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Old 1st August 2007, 11:56 AM   #1
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Default Driver combinations - An Scanspeak Design

Hi All,

I've been talking to Russel from Stone Studios in designing a new 3 way speaker and Anthony Holton for a new selection of amplifiers.

I currently have the B&W 803D's power by a Harman Kardon AVR5550 and feel I would like to craft a speaker and amplifier making it the way I want, that is what DIY is for right!?

So now its time to talk design, I've been looking at various manufacture designs to get a feel for look and some possible driver selection

I love the Wilson WATT/Puppy 7 and 8 designs and the B&W 800D.

I'm thinking becuase its a 3 way design it should use a dedicated midrange driver. So this is what I have narrowed it down to:

Tweeter: R2904-700000
Midrange: 12M4631G00 or 15M4531K00
Woofer: 2x 21W8555-00

I've had a couple of chats to rabbitz about his designs and he highly recommends the 18W8531G00 midwoofer. This I was thinking of using later in a 2 way rear speaker design.

The speakers are intended to be used for music and home theatre. Music type is jazz, drum and bass and house.

I would say a 30/70 in favour of home theatre.

As for the amplifier I'm going to give an Aussie Amplifiers dual channel NX400NL Synergy N-Channel MOSFET Amplifier a go. On paper the figures look excellent.

Hopefully when the design is finished I will do a side by side with the 803D's!

So can you guys assist in the driver selection? Does it look good? What about the midrange 12M or 15M?


Cheers

Nicholas
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Old 1st August 2007, 12:56 PM   #2
rabbitz is offline rabbitz  Australia
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Let Russell choose the drivers as he will know what works together. He has the advantage of running this through LEAP and design a cracker.

Then throw the sellected drivers here for comments.

After all that, then think OB for all but the lower bass (curved ball thrown).
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Old 6th August 2007, 02:30 PM   #3
dre73 is offline dre73  Netherlands
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the 18w8531goo is a very nice mid-driver.
a combination of a 18w+r2904 and an active vifa m26 makes a excellent highend speaker.

i`m playing with a 18w with an focal tc120 td5 cc with an eton 8-472 br and this play`s very nice.
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Old 7th August 2007, 03:01 AM   #4
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From what I read (distortion figures, etc) the 18W should sound very good. The trouble is that with a 6.5" driver you really don't want to cross it higher than 2kHz or the polar response and dispersion won't be optimal. Would the tweeter sound good when crossed low? not very often. This makes the 15M more attractive.

I am interested in this because I also want to design a speaker with all SS drivers.
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Old 8th August 2007, 05:20 AM   #5
SamL is offline SamL  New Zealand
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Quote:
Originally posted by HiFiNutNut
The trouble is that with a 6.5" driver you really don't want to cross it higher than 2kHz or the polar response and dispersion won't be optimal.
What if the 6.5" driver is mounted on a wide baffle like the 50cm PMS by Troels Gravesen. Will this help with the polar response and dispersion?

I looking for something to replace my OW1/Focal 6W4311 2way.
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Old 8th August 2007, 07:44 AM   #6
Foxx510 is offline Foxx510  Australia
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What don't you like about the 803D's?I might be wrong, but I have a feeling it will take a lot of effort to get a DIY effort to sound as good as your current speakers. The B&W's are a bit bright up top, but apart from that they are very good. I'm not saying don't do it, DIY is great fun,but in my (humble) opinion I would be a bit careful about going in to this expecting to match or better the current speakers. Consider an active crossover, also.
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Old 8th August 2007, 09:14 AM   #7
bastek is offline bastek  United States
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Yeah, that happened to me few moths ago, i build 2 diy kits trying to better my Boston Acoustics Lynnfield series 500L MKII, maybe i got very close in SQ, but not better in any way. Now i' m back to my BA, and about $2K short.
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Old 8th August 2007, 10:16 AM   #8
sreten is offline sreten  United Kingdom
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Hmmm........

The 803D may be a very hard act to follow by DIY, especially for HT.

The Boston Acoustics Lynnfield series 500L MKII is a different kettle
of fish, see : http://www.stereophile.com/standloudspeakers/996boston/
an interesting design, especially the AMD resonance suppression,
which unlike electrical suppression will also prevent the resonant
increase in distortion harmonics.

But it is flawed (i.e. not that great) and should be possible to better DIY.
Especially the bottom end .....

/sreten.
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Old 8th August 2007, 10:28 AM   #9
bastek is offline bastek  United States
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That's the Lynnfield 300 bookself, the 500L is a modular tower, the best ever by BA, and one of the better examples of East Coast sound.
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Old 8th August 2007, 10:40 PM   #10
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Sam,

Wide baffle? I believe narrow baffle is the way to go, the narrower the better. Consider diffraction, most people look at it only at the frequency domain, from the Edge or the Baffle Diffraction Simulator from FRC, one can simulate and check the baffle response and choose a design to minimize the ripples. But there is another side, that is the time domain. Sound waves diffract when the air impedance changes, such as when hitting the edge of a baffle. The diffracted sound is delayed sound from the original sound. Diffraction due to Baffle edges cause time smear. With wide baffle, the time smear will be more severe than a narrow baffle. Secondly, you really want to push the point of the change from 2Pi radiation to 4Pi radiation higher so that the power response is more even, and the peaks and dips caused by the baffle response happen in your crossover region so that it can be easily dealt with.

A narrow baffle with a round edge of 50mm to 80mm would be ideal.

Regards,
Bill
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