I am looking for suggestions for a cost is no object driver that would cover a fairly wide range of frequency response.
From the low end: 200-300 Hz [and hopefully not sonically damaging below this range as I do not intend to roll off the bottom end with a cross-over -- well that is the plan]
Top end: No lower than 7KHz, and preferably 8-10 KHz.
Efficiency in the 90db/w/meter range and hopefully reasonably good power handling.
I am looking for a single driver, not a co-axial driver like Cabasse that is actually two drivers.
I would be interested in good quality lost options as well ($100-$150) for some other options I am considering.
I am working up a design with a wide range driver to do most of the work, an 8-10" woofer to cover the bottom end, and a nice smooth tweeter for the very top end. I think by pouring the most money into the meat of the audio spectrum and doing away with cross-over, driver overlapping, etc. in these critical regions, I have the best chance of success, or at least covering up my mistakes.
I am also playing around with a combination MDF\Concrete construction that is looking very promising. It was one of the rare times that things actually worked out better than I planned and were even easier than I thought they would be.
From the low end: 200-300 Hz [and hopefully not sonically damaging below this range as I do not intend to roll off the bottom end with a cross-over -- well that is the plan]
Top end: No lower than 7KHz, and preferably 8-10 KHz.
Efficiency in the 90db/w/meter range and hopefully reasonably good power handling.
I am looking for a single driver, not a co-axial driver like Cabasse that is actually two drivers.
I would be interested in good quality lost options as well ($100-$150) for some other options I am considering.
I am working up a design with a wide range driver to do most of the work, an 8-10" woofer to cover the bottom end, and a nice smooth tweeter for the very top end. I think by pouring the most money into the meat of the audio spectrum and doing away with cross-over, driver overlapping, etc. in these critical regions, I have the best chance of success, or at least covering up my mistakes.
I am also playing around with a combination MDF\Concrete construction that is looking very promising. It was one of the rare times that things actually worked out better than I planned and were even easier than I thought they would be.
Well, here's a couple choices at each end of the range. The Jordan JX92S http://www.creativesound.ca/details.php?model=JX92S
and the BG RD75 Planar line source
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&PartNumber=264-700&DID=7
yes, drive yourself nuts...regards, Jason
and the BG RD75 Planar line source
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&PartNumber=264-700&DID=7
yes, drive yourself nuts...regards, Jason
If cost is no object, you might consider Fertin that Dice was raving so much about. You will not need a tweeter, just a sub and the info is somwhere on a forum. Be prepared to spend at least $1,600 for a pair.
I recently made some changes to my speakers, which use Triangle and Raven drivers in MTM configuration. I had second order filter on mids and third order on tweeter. An audiofile friend visited me once and commented that there is not enough highs and the system has a darker character. So out of curiosity I disconnected tweeter and connected mids directly without any crossover. I was really surprised with the results. The system sounds so much better now, with more ambience, natural pace, more highs (and they sound great) and overall presentation which is more real.
The Triangle drivers I'm using were sourced from Zalytron (at $250 ea.), and they are actually full range. I tried them before full range without crossovers, but the sound was bright and annoying. Since that time I changed my system substantially, with much better amps and better CD front end. The biggest difference though was made by pneumatic platform under CD transport. So either this, or long breaking in period caused that the drivers sound better now without crossover and full range. I'm not really tempted to connect the Raven tweeter back, but if I do it it will be first order, above 10kHz.
To make it short, I have to admit that using full range drivers and as little crossovering as possible brings amazing results. Simple became just better.
I recently made some changes to my speakers, which use Triangle and Raven drivers in MTM configuration. I had second order filter on mids and third order on tweeter. An audiofile friend visited me once and commented that there is not enough highs and the system has a darker character. So out of curiosity I disconnected tweeter and connected mids directly without any crossover. I was really surprised with the results. The system sounds so much better now, with more ambience, natural pace, more highs (and they sound great) and overall presentation which is more real.
The Triangle drivers I'm using were sourced from Zalytron (at $250 ea.), and they are actually full range. I tried them before full range without crossovers, but the sound was bright and annoying. Since that time I changed my system substantially, with much better amps and better CD front end. The biggest difference though was made by pneumatic platform under CD transport. So either this, or long breaking in period caused that the drivers sound better now without crossover and full range. I'm not really tempted to connect the Raven tweeter back, but if I do it it will be first order, above 10kHz.
To make it short, I have to admit that using full range drivers and as little crossovering as possible brings amazing results. Simple became just better.
I will second the Jordan JX92, and also suggest the Fostex FE108ESigma (and the FE168ESigma).
All of these are considered as full-ranges and as such make excellent mids. The Jordan is a little less than your target, the 108 spot-on and the 168 quite a bit more.
These all represent years & years of continuous development by their manufacturers.
They are also all on the low end of your budget range.
On a real low budget the TangBand W3-817 and Fostex FE103 are good candidates.
dave
All of these are considered as full-ranges and as such make excellent mids. The Jordan is a little less than your target, the 108 spot-on and the 168 quite a bit more.
These all represent years & years of continuous development by their manufacturers.
They are also all on the low end of your budget range.
On a real low budget the TangBand W3-817 and Fostex FE103 are good candidates.
dave
Peter Daniel said:
i'd be very interested in how that turns out, because this is something i would like to try... the question in my mind is whether the 1st order XO -- even at 10k -- is enuff to keep from having to have a continual supply of replacement ribbons. Of course you could tri-amp with a single passive cap for the 10k knee and an active filter a couple octaves lower (or the reverse with a big cap passively XOing at about 3k and an PLLXO at 10k)
dave
That's a good point. For the first time since I built the speakers I could play them full power. The Focal woofers are 400W and Triangles, actively crossed at 120 Hz, can also take much abuse. So after disconnecting Ravens I just cranked it up and for the first time felt the drywall vibrating really bad.
So it might be an option, for listening at regular levels: Ravens in, for parties: Ravens out.
So it might be an option, for listening at regular levels: Ravens in, for parties: Ravens out.
I'm still using Accuton tweeters and midranges (older style), but have to admit that they don't match the presentation of high efficiency paper cone drivers.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=4469&highlight=grand
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=4469&highlight=grand
Scan Speak 12 M 4631G00.
Well based on specs and some simulations, I am leaning towards the Scan Speak 12 M 4631G00.
Has anyone listened to this driver and do they have any comments. I will likely run it from 250Hz to about 7,000 Hz. If the comments are positive, I think I am going to get it into cabinets and see how it performs. Then I will pick a corresponding woofer and tweeter.
Alvaius
Well based on specs and some simulations, I am leaning towards the Scan Speak 12 M 4631G00.
Has anyone listened to this driver and do they have any comments. I will likely run it from 250Hz to about 7,000 Hz. If the comments are positive, I think I am going to get it into cabinets and see how it performs. Then I will pick a corresponding woofer and tweeter.
Alvaius
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