Hi,
I've had excellent results in the past with applying timber veneer on MDF, Pete Mazz style (coat veneer and substrate with PVA glue, and wait approx half hour til dry, then align, apply pressure and iron on) but always on a loudspeaker cabinet with square edges. This has worked great for 2 different floorstanders, one with raw veneer, and the other with paper backed veneer.
Has anyone used this method, or any other method, for applying veneer to a baffle whose sides have 1/2" roundovers?
How well does veneer bend around these edges, and how well does it stick using the iron-on method?
best regards,
Thanh.
I've had excellent results in the past with applying timber veneer on MDF, Pete Mazz style (coat veneer and substrate with PVA glue, and wait approx half hour til dry, then align, apply pressure and iron on) but always on a loudspeaker cabinet with square edges. This has worked great for 2 different floorstanders, one with raw veneer, and the other with paper backed veneer.
Has anyone used this method, or any other method, for applying veneer to a baffle whose sides have 1/2" roundovers?
How well does veneer bend around these edges, and how well does it stick using the iron-on method?
best regards,
Thanh.
Hi,
I have never veneered round corners of a speaker - but I have done this successfully on the interior of my boat! In particular, I veneered the entire mast support struts, each over 4ft long, approx 2 ins square section with rounded corners. The corner radius is about 10mm - fairly tight.
The secret to doing the job was this. Stick masking tape on the outer face of the veneer, all over the part to be bent, to stop the veneer cracking when you bend it. This worked really well for me.
I used contact adhesive which worked well. Of course you have to get the alignment spot on as you assemble, easier said than done. You should do fine with the iron on method you mention; do the flat area first of course, then bend the veneer round the corner.
In my case, I stuck the veneer onto a flat face first. Then I used a long piece of wood to bend the veneer around the corner all in one go. You may be able to do this, then hold it and iron it in place working from the centre out.
Don't agonize over defects - they can be corrected. If the veneer splits and opens, the crack can have a piece glued in later. If you get a split which overlaps, the top layer can be cut back and fiddled to make it fit. Defects should end up almost invisible.
Just have a go. Good luck.
I have never veneered round corners of a speaker - but I have done this successfully on the interior of my boat! In particular, I veneered the entire mast support struts, each over 4ft long, approx 2 ins square section with rounded corners. The corner radius is about 10mm - fairly tight.
The secret to doing the job was this. Stick masking tape on the outer face of the veneer, all over the part to be bent, to stop the veneer cracking when you bend it. This worked really well for me.
I used contact adhesive which worked well. Of course you have to get the alignment spot on as you assemble, easier said than done. You should do fine with the iron on method you mention; do the flat area first of course, then bend the veneer round the corner.
In my case, I stuck the veneer onto a flat face first. Then I used a long piece of wood to bend the veneer around the corner all in one go. You may be able to do this, then hold it and iron it in place working from the centre out.
Don't agonize over defects - they can be corrected. If the veneer splits and opens, the crack can have a piece glued in later. If you get a split which overlaps, the top layer can be cut back and fiddled to make it fit. Defects should end up almost invisible.
Just have a go. Good luck.
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