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Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

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Old 28th June 2007, 02:45 AM   #11
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Quote:
Given the sort of drivers your considering, isobaric is not a good idea.
What have I missed? I hadn't the slightest idea that was so. What kind of drivers then is good for isobaric, just so I know? I have a couple of 12" drivers that I am considering as well, and I might get away with the larger box, but then size with will increase a lot, I fear.

I guess it is time to get some software going so I can do my own simulations. How nice it would be if size restrictions were non existent.

I saw in the latest TAS that they wrote that BB was the same as marine ply, that isn't so, or is it? I thought they were totally different.

Now I am gonna have a look at Win ISD Pro to start with.
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Old 28th June 2007, 05:12 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally posted by buggsson
that BB was the same as marine ply, that isn't so, or is it? I thought they were totally different.
It is more that they are both void-free plywoods... i wouldn't pick one over the other quality wise...

dave
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Old 24th May 2010, 11:46 AM   #13
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I hope it's OK to bump my own thread, even though it was close to three years ago the last post was written?

I've finally, for some time now, decided that I will push this project to its finish. I have tried to inform me some more, and lately I've been trying to find some suitable drivers.

My game plan for now is:

Two-way box atop a sealed sub-box containing two 10" drivers. (For a push-push config, I would need some additional info about box placement. For both front-back or side-firing woofers, I guess there aught to be a minimum clear distance to walls, furniture etc, how much approx.?)

Active crossover for all registers. I want to cross at around 200-300 Hz between subs and mid, and around 5000 Hz between mid and tweeter. And yes, I know crossing that high (5000 Hz) can involve some problems, but I want to start there and if it goes bad, my plan is to start going down until problems become manageable again.

For subs I only have two contenders left, the SEAS Prestige L26RFX/P and SB Acoustics SB29NRX75-6.

For the mids however, I would appreciate all help I can get in reducing the number to a for me a more manageable number. (I've Googled and looked at company product data sheets as best as I can)
The mid-contenders are:
Aurum Cantus AC-130F1
Aurum Cantus AC-165 (here the response peak between approx 3-5 kHz worries me)
Peerless 830991
Peerless 830860
Tang Band WF W6-1721
Tang Band WF W5-1685
Visaton AL 130M

If you have opinions about driving the mids sealed or ported, I'm interested.

Tweeters, I planned to get to them last.

While the suggestions are bogging down the forum servers, I will get started about baffle step and diffraction.
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Old 25th May 2010, 02:15 AM   #14
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re:' I want to cross at around ..." I think you're putting the cart before the horse, select drivers first, then cabinet width, THEN your crossover freqs
Go sealed with the mids, and ported with the bass drivers
links to the specs of the mids would help, go for the one that has the smoothest freq response, & if you can find it, lowest distortion profile
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Old 28th May 2010, 01:40 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeteMcK View Post
re:' I want to cross at around ..." I think you're putting the cart before the horse, select drivers first, then cabinet width, THEN your crossover freqs
Go sealed with the mids, and ported with the bass drivers
links to the specs of the mids would help, go for the one that has the smoothest freq response, & if you can find it, lowest distortion profile
Yes, I might have put the cart before the horse, but that's due to a reason, correct or not, I don't initially want to cross over, in for the ear, the most sensitive frequency range. If it goes bad, I thought that I just have to lower the crossover point. I know that you can cross much lower and get good results, it is just me, sometimes I just want to do it my way, and this is where I want to start, for now.

I've seen some calculations/measurements that one can do to find the optimum cross over points, and I will certainly check those out in more detail before I settle on my final, first cross over points.

I've choose to go sealed because it is said to be the easiest way for a newbie like me, and are also said to have better transients (in general).

I will do the mids closed as well.

Distortion curves are very hard to come by, but I will select four of the mids that I contemplate and serve some numbers later.

And for the width of the box, I have to take it into consideration at the initial design stage, and it has all to do with WAF
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Old 29th May 2010, 10:23 PM   #16
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So, here are some data for the for now chosen mids.

ScanSpeak 15W/4434G00
Cone: coated fiberglass
Nom. imp.: 4 ohm
DC res.: 3 ohm
Resonance freq.: 43 Hz
Qts: 0,21
VAS: 12,89 liters
Sensitivity (2.83V/1m): 89,7 dB
Powerhandling: 120 W
Xmax: 4.3 mm
http://scan-speak.dk/datasheet/pdf/15w-4434g00.pdf

Tang Band WF-Series W5-1685
Cone: paper
Nom. imp.: 4 ohm
DC res.: 3.6 ohm
Resonance freq.: 50 Hz
Qts: 0.46
VAS: 12.6 liter
Sensitivity (1W/1m): 86 dB
Powerhandling: 45 W
Xmax: 6.1 mm
http://www.tb-speaker.com/detail/1230_04/w5-1685.htm

Tang Band WF Series W6-1721
Cone: paper
Nom. imp.: 4 ohm
DC res.: 3.4 ohm
Resonance freq.: 40 Hz
Qts: 0.43
VAS: 29.38 liter
Sensitivity (1W/1m): 88 dB
Powerhandling: 50 W
Xmax: 8 mm
http://www.tb-speaker.com/detail/1230_04/w6-1721.htm

Visaton AL 130 M
Cone: Alu.
Nom. imp.: 8 ohm
DC res.: 5.4 ohm
Resonance freq.: 57 Hz
Qts: 0.46
VAS: 9.1 liter
Sensitivity (1W/1m): 90 dB
Powerhandling: 60 W
Xmax: 5.5 mm
Visaton - Lautsprecher und Zubehör, Loudspeakers and Accessories

I hope they will fit my plan.
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Old 29th May 2010, 11:05 PM   #17
tinitus is offline tinitus  Europe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buggsson View Post

My game plan for now is:

Two-way box atop a sealed sub-box containing two 10" drivers.

(For a push-push config, I would need some additional info about box placement. For both front-back or side-firing woofers, I guess there aught to be a minimum clear distance to walls, furniture etc, how much approx.?)

Active crossover for all registers. I want to cross at around 200-300 Hz between subs and mid, and around 5000 Hz between mid and tweeter.
Thats not a 2way with sub, but a regular 3way

But I suppose you are in no hurry, and have plenty time to get it straight

I would choose a single 12" woofer, and go from there ... ehh, thats not true; it would be a 15" or 18"
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Old 30th May 2010, 12:55 AM   #18
doug20 is offline doug20  United States
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Im curious, Why do you think any of your mid choices are great up to 5KHz? None of those look like true mid-range drivers to me.

Could you also explain why 5KHz, why not just XO in the 3KHz range?
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Old 30th May 2010, 02:29 AM   #19
tinitus is offline tinitus  Europe
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I dont have much experience with classic active xo
But the general rules of passive xo still counts
With the exception that they(active) uasually do not have adjiustable slopes, which passives do

Thus I suggest to stay well clear of drivers own natural roll off
Which would mean that even as low as 2khz might be a better choise
But as said, its theoretical
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Old 30th May 2010, 02:53 AM   #20
tinitus is offline tinitus  Europe
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Originally Posted by doug20 View Post
None of those look like true mid-range drivers to me.
The SS discovery certainly shows all the virtues of a good midrange driver

Tho, I dont understand how they managed to get both relatively high Xmax AND high sensitivity, considering its a 5" with low Fs
Maybe too good to be true

Accuton drivers are interesting, but expencive

But I have a humble suggestion
If you use dsp Eq the very cheap 2" TB (W2-800SL) can be crossed lower than a tweeter, and opens a door to a different design; a 2.5way with subs
With those also cheap SS discovery drivers you could be in luck
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