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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
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OK, I am in need of your collective opinions. First I’ll lay down some exemplary speaker systems I am referring to;
* Jamo R909 - http://www.jamo.com/Default.aspx?ID=...roductID=17862 Rockport Technologies, Altair - http://www.rockporttechnologies.com/ Sonus Faber – Stradivari - http://www.sumikoaudio.net/sonus/prod_stradivari.htm Peak Consult – El Diablo - http://www.peak-consult.dk/ DeVore Fidelity – Silverback - http://www.devorefidelity.com/silverback.html Wilson Audio – Alexandria - http://www.wilsonaudio.com/product/alexandria/ Aerial Acoustics Model 20T - http://www.aerialacoustics.com/html/prods.html * Audio Artistry – The Beethoven - http://www.audioartistry.com/ * Perfect 8 Technologies – The Point - http://www.perfect8.com/ Egglestonworks – Savoy - http://www.egglestonworks.com/savoy.html ATC Audio – SCM50 Anniversary - http://www.atc.gb.net/domestic/scm50ann.html * Bastinis – Apollo - http://www.bastanis.com/catalog/prod...7968f3e9220b1b These are among the most expensive and refined speakers in the world. I’m well aware that I’m missing quite a number but let’s leave it at this, ok? I’d venture to say the median price of this group is roughly $25,000 per speaker (that is among the top of each line)? Does that sound about right? There is a point to this. Aside from only a few (*) all others are “box” speakers (the few others are open baffle) and there is one thing about them that is disturbing to me; all are vented systems. I would like your opinion as to why? Before you answer, and correct me if I’m wrong but, there is nary a disconcerting voice I’ve ever seen that does not recommend a sealed low frequency enclosure for its tightness, its reasonable size and its bass extension. Also to have an effective vented box all I’ve learned in the past, and from all of my box design software, isn’t significantly larger boxes required in order to reach the potential low frequency depths a vented system is capable of obtaining? When handled properly, as with the Rythmic Servo Subwoofer, or many other sealed designs I’ve seen, such as the Linkwitz Thor Subwoofer (and many others), isn’t lower frequency response much cleaner and more clearly obtainable with a properly designed and powered sealed low frequency enclosure? What if you consider a Linkwitz Transform Circuit (which is quite easy to implement) or any other ELF circuitry? So, my question is; why do NONE of the top high end producers of boxed speakers incorporate sealed low frequency enclosures? They're also prone to vented midrange enclosures as well, why? The reason I’m posing the question is that with the insurgence of open baffle designs coming onto the market now, not one, not one, recommends other than a sealed enclosure to assist with the bottom 2 octaves of the spectrum – not one! Only the Jamo appears to have the low frequency output performance to avoid any recommendation for a subwoofer to assist in the lowest octaves. All others have either large bass arrays or recommend one of their own “special” sealed offerings to properly match up with what their flagships are missing. Am I the only one missing the dichotomy? I guess when I look at our potential as constructors compared to their (commercial $25k offerings) products I am really wondering about the audacity of these systems. Do you guys believe they are simply that much better than what you can build? I mean, come on, we can buy some of the finest components on the planet and still have plenty of money left for the best amplifiers on the market to power them. We can build wonderful active crossovers and amplify individual drivers to their specific strengths that they just cannot do because they’re trying to serve the masses, right? I’m a little confused though (as he laughs), because I doubt the masses can afford a $91,000 pair of speakers, can they? Lastly, I’m going to ask you to define your perfect speaker system. How would it be built? OB, Sealed or vented, and then why? Why would you make such a choice? What part of your listening pleasure means the most to you? What about properly obtaining the bottom 2 octaves; how would you choose to fulfill that? Please make your choices without regard to price. What drivers would you choose, what design, and lastly, what kind of music do you prefer to listen to? I’m curious to see if there is a correlation between speaker design and the music that is listened to. One last thing; let’s assume a room that is 7.7 meters (25’) by, 6.16 meters (20’), by 2.5 Meters high (8’). How would you fill a room of this size with the highest quality sound that your imagination can conceive? |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
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try your best to do the sound good !
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: NY
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Loudspeaker building is not Philosophy. Just pick-create a design and materialize it. They' re all good.
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Devon UK
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Bavarian Forest
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The best I have heard at the Highend in Munich this year was the Martion Orgon, a 4-way active horn system. I would clone it with ALE or
Goto drivers. |
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#6 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: home sweet home
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Quote:
There is infinite amount of possibilities how to design and built speakers and all of them are valid if they lead to system which satisfies listener. e |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Moderator
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Those are some groovy looking speakers you've got going there, Adason.
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Take the Speaker Voltage Test! |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Chicago area
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You are not the first one to ask these questions I'm sure.
It seems to me as one who's hearing is going away that the main reason to spend the BIG BUCKS on speakers is mostly as a (Status symbol). Yes, yes I know that these speakers are wonderful audio transducers and the people who designed and build them have a rite to some profit for there trouble. Many of the speakers on your list and a lot of others are very interesting to look at as well. When you break it all down however the basics of speaker design is what compromises do you want to make and how do you want to make them. Don't let anyone tell you different. (Not even me.) Most of the time the drivers are picked from a spec. sheet. We look at frequency response, resonant frequency, power handleing, dispersion angles, distortion and any other performance parameter the maker will share with you. Then we try different cabinet styles, materials, support structures and driver combinations to get the sound we want (key words here "the sound we want"). As someone else said "They all sound good". I don't know that I'd say they all sound good but that all of the different cabinet styles have the possibility to sound good if the compromises are the best possible ones. The designers that do the best job of limiting coloration of the sound by clever design will have hit the sonic target here. How do I pick speakers? I take my own cd test disk and listen to every speaker in the room. I listen for no more that 30 seconds per speaker. I listen with my eyes closed. I listen to each speaker with several different cuts untell I have chosen the one that sounds the most like live music to me. Thats the best any of us can do. After all the goal here is the sound of live music. I know that doesn't help much, but thats how I choose. BZ
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What ever makes the tunes flow |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: home sweet home
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Teh, the list continues here:
http://www.higherfi.com/spkrlist/speakerlist.htm |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: in center
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Check this:
System Pictures & Description And forget Tannoy Westminster Royal: http://www.supersonido.es/productos/...&idCategoria=1 ...probabily one of the most good implementation.
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"I'm glad I can build my own mistakes." |
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