speaker project, need a little advise...

[punkrocker5817]

so Ive been having an itch lately to build a pair of budget speakers. At the moment I'm running a pair of KEF Q15's off a Denon DRA 775RD. I love the combo, but obviously it doesnt get loud enough or have any real low end.

So I've been looking at doing some 2 way towers. Ive been searching all through the madisound catalog looking at frequency graphs, fs's, etc trying to find a good pair of mids/tweets. What I've settled on are:

tweets: K1's ($8.55 each)
the mids/midbass: F6's ($45.65 each).

Was wondering how opinions on this combo would be. I would like to port the mids and tune to 40ish or so. Would this sacrifice the midrange? These are a bit large but I know that large speakers can still produce pretty impressive midrange.

Also...would these be ideal for an 8th ordered elliptical crossover? that would be to much fun....



thanks,

Jeff

[richie00boy]

I don't know what those K6 are, but if you are finding the Q15's not loud or deep enough then you need to be looking at 8 inch drivers at the very minimum.

[sreten]

Hmmm........

8th ordered elliptical filters are fun ?
Do you know what this actually means ?

The F6 is a decent driver, see here :
http://www.zaphaudio.com/6.5test/
Good for a compact sealed box, not so good for a large vented box.

The K1 (or SD1.1) is also OK, see here :
http://www.zaphaudio.com/tweetermishmash/

How to design them :
http://www.rjbaudio.com/Audiofiles/FRDtools.html

If you have lots of juice and want serious bass :
http://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/Extremon.html
or
http://www.rjbaudio.com/Extremis/extremis.html

/sreten.

[Willitwork]

Originally posted by richie00boy
I don't know what those K6 are, but if you are finding the Q15's not loud or deep enough then you need to be looking at 8 inch drivers at the very minimum.

The K1 needs to be crossed quite high so I guess it would be difficult to find a suitable 8-inch for it, perhaps two 6.5-inch drivers would be suitable. Unfortunately this doubles the woofer budget, but when one pays $10 for a tweeter that costs almost $100 in Europe (could Hi Vi explain that?) one may feel more inclined to buy 4 mid-bass drivers than 2.

[richie00boy]

Well then you need to go 3-way.

[punkrocker5817]

Originally posted by sreten
Hmmm........

8th ordered elliptical filters are fun ?
Do you know what this actually means ?

The F6 is a decent driver, see here :
http://www.zaphaudio.com/6.5test/
Good for a compact sealed box, not so good for a large vented box.

The K1 (or SD1.1) is also OK, see here :
http://www.zaphaudio.com/tweetermishmash/

How to design them :
http://www.rjbaudio.com/Audiofiles/FRDtools.html

If you have lots of juice and want serious bass :
http://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/Extremon.html
or
http://www.rjbaudio.com/Extremis/extremis.html

/sreten.

well I have been into car audio for a while, and so yes I do know what elliptical is. I collectively have over 15,000 posts on other audio forums, so its nothing new to me. Just growing up and getting into home audio more now. So for the budget I setup above, what would you recommend just using a 2nd or 3rd ordered crossover?


thanks

[sreten]

Hmmm........

15,000 posts ? really. I pointlessly got involved in one of your threads.

I'm not being patronising, not many understand Cauer filters full stop.

I'd recommend using the FRD tools.
Normally your target would be 4th order L/R acoustic at the c/o
point, but with some added assymetry to account for driver offset.
Typically this can be achieved using 2nd or 3rd order electrical filters.

c/o selection depends on the driver responses and controlling
the distortion products of the drivers, there are no simple rules.

But as a primer you should familiarise yourself with the info here :

http://www.rjbaudio.com/projects.html
http://www.zaphaudio.com/
http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/Diy_Lou...r_Projects.htm
http://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/

will teach you more than 15,000 conflicting posts ever could ....

/sreten.

[sreten]

Hi,

Shown is the F6 driver in a 10L sealed box and 32 litres vented.
The "knee" in the vented version will sound like it looks, obvious.

Generally speaking a box volume >> Vas means you could use
bigger and better driver in that box volume with Vas near Vbox.

Also shown (in red) is the Dayton RS180 in a 20L box where Vas = Vbox.

The F6 looks ideal for sealed box HT use, also possibly in a TL.

see here : http://www.iplacoustics.co.uk/ipl_s3...issionline.htm



/sreten.

[punkrocker5817]

Originally posted by sreten
Hi,

Shown is the F6 driver in a 10L sealed box and 32 litres vented.
The "knee" in the vented version will sound like it looks, obvious.

Generally speaking a box volume >> Vas means you could use
bigger and better driver in that box volume with Vas near Vbox.

Also shown (in red) is the Dayton RS180 in a 20L box where Vas = Vbox.

The F6 looks ideal for sealed box HT use, also possibly in a TL.

see here : http://www.iplacoustics.co.uk/ipl_s3...issionline.htm



/sreten.

thanks for the excellent links. I had tried downloading winISD the other day but the server was down for some reason. Also, I do not directly correlate intelligence with posts count. There are many with more than me that are dumb as rocks. anyhow thanks. definately helps a lot.

[Jay_WJ]

If you want the most bang for the buck combo for 2-way in MT or MTM configuration, consider Dayton RS180 and Seas TBFCG (or TDFC). Most people in DIY currently agree that these are hard to beat. If you like substantial low end, 2.5 way TMM in a tower will be a great idea.

Roman B designed a 2.5 way crossover for the RS180, but this design uses RS28A tweeter. So if you want to use a different tweeter, you'll need to modify the tweeter net. Here's a link:

http://www.rjbaudio.com/RS180MTM/rs180-rs28-mtm.html