I've been enjoying (for more than a decade) an older pair of B+W Matrix 3 Speakers (floorstanding, two woofers, one tweeter) as powered by a PSE Studio IV. Recently I took the pre-amp out of my system and plugged the PSE directly into my Mac. All was well for about 6 hours and then there was a slight 'puff click" noise in the left channel. I fiddled with the speakerwire to determine if it was an amp or speaker issue and it appeared to be an amp issue. Anyhow, down one speaker, I went back to keep listening in Mono, but 10 minutes later "puff click" and I lost the right channel as well. The poweramp seems fine (its a little on the warm side, especially considering I'm not putting a signal through it right this second, but its sitting on a metal grate an inch off the carpet). Although I was not driving the system particularly hard, it seems that I may have killed the electronics in the speakers. Right now they are completely dead (when you put your ear to the grille, you don't hear that light hiss that they emit even when there is no music coming through them). Did I kill them? Can they be repaired? Any suggestions, comments?
Thanks,
Jared
Thanks,
Jared
Try hooking up one of the speakers to another amp/system first to confirm it's them and not an amp issue. If they still don't work it may be in the speaker crossover networks - do they have fuses? If so the fuses may be blown. Also remove a woofer and test it directly - if it works it's definitely in the crossover.
You can try tracing the components or components in the crossover that are "blown", or rebuild the crossovers with same-value components.
You can try tracing the components or components in the crossover that are "blown", or rebuild the crossovers with same-value components.
Its the crossover
Confirmed that the problem is the crossover (all six drivers produce sound when connected directly to amp). Not sure about the "protection circuit" one author referred to or how to reset it, but I have used these speakers heavily for 13 years and this is the first trouble I have ever had. (The crossovers were apparently manufactured/tested in May, 1986). Not sure how to go about tracing the failure in the crossovers, but if anyone can point to a web resource on how to do that, I would be much obliged. (I'm assuming you touch a volt meter or something to each component.) Alternatively, if anyone can recommend someplace where I can have the crossovers rebuilt at a reasonable price (I'm cheap and poor, it sucks), let me know. Or (last alternative) if anyone can recommend an affordable replacement crossover, I could replace the whole board) I'm not really looking to upgrade the speakers in any way, I'm really happy with them, so value would be the big priority. (Interestingly, these speakers, unlike the newer matrix and B+W speakers, have only two audio inputs, not 4, I have no idea what the significance/utility of 4 inputs is)).
Thanks so much.
Confirmed that the problem is the crossover (all six drivers produce sound when connected directly to amp). Not sure about the "protection circuit" one author referred to or how to reset it, but I have used these speakers heavily for 13 years and this is the first trouble I have ever had. (The crossovers were apparently manufactured/tested in May, 1986). Not sure how to go about tracing the failure in the crossovers, but if anyone can point to a web resource on how to do that, I would be much obliged. (I'm assuming you touch a volt meter or something to each component.) Alternatively, if anyone can recommend someplace where I can have the crossovers rebuilt at a reasonable price (I'm cheap and poor, it sucks), let me know. Or (last alternative) if anyone can recommend an affordable replacement crossover, I could replace the whole board) I'm not really looking to upgrade the speakers in any way, I'm really happy with them, so value would be the big priority. (Interestingly, these speakers, unlike the newer matrix and B+W speakers, have only two audio inputs, not 4, I have no idea what the significance/utility of 4 inputs is)).
Thanks so much.
The four inputs could be for Bi-amping.
Its alarming that both speakers blow on the same system in such a short time. I'd be looking for DC on the outputs or perhaps the amplifier is over driven? Over driving the amp puts DC into the output so you get huge stress without being able to hear it ( ie not loud). Its usually a failing of cheap PA systems but the physics is the same.
Time to shell out a few dollars for a cheap meter.
Its alarming that both speakers blow on the same system in such a short time. I'd be looking for DC on the outputs or perhaps the amplifier is over driven? Over driving the amp puts DC into the output so you get huge stress without being able to hear it ( ie not loud). Its usually a failing of cheap PA systems but the physics is the same.
Time to shell out a few dollars for a cheap meter.
When you say all the drivers produce sound when you connect them direct, did you connect the tweeter directly to an amp and play music? If so you may have damaged it. Tweeters don't have any excursion capability so you must not subject them to any low frequency signals.
You really need to get a multimeter, they are under $10 and it's like flying blind without one. Plus they always come in handy.
You really need to get a multimeter, they are under $10 and it's like flying blind without one. Plus they always come in handy.
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