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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Kent
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Hi,
I have built a pair of speakers using the ScanSpeak 12m4631G midrange driver and they sound really good, but there is a noticeable dip around 2-3KHz that makes vocals sound a bit recessed. I also notice this same dip, though less pronounced, in the response measurements Zaph took of some of these drivers. ![]() I think part of the issue may be that I did not countersink the driver, so I will try that. It is also, however, partly due to having the Xover near-by and the lead-in to the crossover drops that dip down even more But if it is still an issue after recessing the driver, is there any way to correct for that dip using passive filters?If the whole level has to go down 3-4dB to do it then so be it (thinking band pass kind of filter). Or maybe I can actually make a resonance at this frequency? But I am not sure exactly how to do all this with passive filters so advice is appreciated please! I realise I could correct using an active filter between CDP and amp but I don't want to have to do that since I'd like the speakers to be 'stand alone'. Cheers guys! Edit: Zaph, can you recall if you countersunk the driver when you took your measurements? ScanSpeak's own PDF does not show this dip. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
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Hi Tenson, it's not so much a dip at 2.3k but a rise from 600 - 1.6 k of 3db. See how recessing the driver effects things. A diagram of the crossover would be helpful, with xo freqs.
Geoff |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Hong Kong
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Hi Tenson. I suggest u to measure off axis response as well. If the dip dissapear off axis, I'll live with it.
Try to correct diffraction issue with EQ, might create power response irregularity. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Kent
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Hi,
Yes I did BD simulations, I don't think it is that. I am beginning to think it is more complex such as phase issues and inconsistencies between the tweeter I first measured and the one I added the network to. Don't worry about it for now, I must rethink the whole thing I think. |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Kent
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Actually I do have a question if I may.. is it just me who has found SpeakerWorkshop does not model notch filters well? At least, I have tried two different notch filters in this project (at different frequencies and Q) and neither were anywhere near as effective as SpeakerWorkshop made out they would be. I had to use about double the resistor value to even get a noticeable dip in the response.
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: USA, MN
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Are you modeling inductor DCR, and what type of capacitor are you using?
__________________
Our species needs, and deserves, a citizenry with minds wide awake and a basic understanding of how the world works. --Carl Sagan Science is a way of thinking much more than it is a body of knowledge. --Carl Sagan |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Kent
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Hi, yeah I was modelling the inductor DCR, it was not big enough to mean I needed double the resistor value anyway though.
I was using standard aluminium electrolytic caps. Are these not suitable? In fact I have sometimes wondered, since music is AC, surely electrolytic caps, directional as they are, are not suitable? But they do seem to work fine in most cases! I don't like to splash on polyprops or whatever until I know the Xover is working well. ..and sometimes I just don't bother at all! |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
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Hi Tenson,
We should never use standard electrolytic caps in a xo. If larger values are required use bipolar, or non polarised electro, and if passing higher freqs should have smaller non electrolytic caps in parallel. A standard electrolytic has a diode type action, and can explode if reversed polarised. Geoff |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Kent
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I know it is not best practice... but they do seem to work just fine for things like simple tweeter Xovers. In fact I have never had any problems using polarised caps!! Its seems odd to me, but anyone with a good electronics head care to explain why they seem to work fine in most cases?
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