Beginning my first project

Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.
chris ma said:


You can impress her when you can sell your projects and recoup the money spent. That's why you should try and do your best with your projects and make them look as good as they sound so that you can easily sell it to your friends and keep going with new projects. Then she may even brag about your products to her friends too...

Just my way to get more pocket money for my hobbies when I was your age....
Chris;)

Generally most 16 years olds don't have $400 or more lying around to buy a set of speakers off a friend.. well, I know none of my friends do.. :p I am waiting for my friend to wreck his dads speakers, then I have a first customer.. :)
 
Skinnyboy - Just to give you my tuppence worth on the method of holding the box together, I'd go with routing the edges so all the bits fit together and then just glue and use clamps if you've got the tools rather than use screws as well. I've done both ways and found that the extra hassle involved in doing the screwing (drilling holes, counter sinking, filling in and sanding after) isn't really worth the effort and my glue&screw built boxes have never been as good as the ones I've just routed, glued and clamped.

Hope that helps.
 
You can impress her when you can sell your projects and recoup the money spent. That's why you should try and do your best with your projects and make them look as good as they sound so that you can easily sell it to your friends and keep going with new projects. Then she may even brag about your products to her friends too...

Well I've done about 10 subwoofer boxes so far, the Eton 8.1 Set, and I've done a wonderful entertainment center, and beautiful speaker stands. Ive sold 8 of the 10 subwoofer boxes and I got paid for making the 8.1's. So its not like I havent shown a profit or dedication. I am everyones reference point for audio in general at my school. I dont know what shes thinking or why.. but I have to deal with it.

Well, back to the speakers. The Tlb will not fit my price range, because of the multiple drivers.

I think I will be able to get a sub or I will have to eventually.. so I am going back to the P13 and D27 idea. I need to just order some drivers and then sort out the rest..

If I can convice her I need a sub and it wont rattle apart her house (when shes home anyway) Then i'll go for the P13, and if she says no, I'll go with the peerless.

Then hopefully we can start building and tinkering!:D
 
Well I talked to my mom, and here are the results:

I get a sub! And I'm going with the Vifa P13 and the D27.

So, they will be ordered asap, and I need to start thinking about cabinet design.

Should I go sealed since I'm gonna have a sub? I think that sealed would yeild me better response and phase and so on. Really I could build both and see or I could build endless amounts of cabinets..

For the sub, I think I'm going to get a Elemental Designs e12a.
www.edesignaudio.com

I know its a car sub, but its likes small boxes and I like small boxes too. I think it will be perfectly fine with a 250watt plate amp and a ported enclosure.

Thanks for all the help!:D
 
Hey, I just noticed something.. :p you say this is your first project, but you also say its not your first project.. :p you have made speaker boxes (subs) in the past.. :rolleyes: Mine TRUELY IS my first project, well, almost.. :( I have made one rather shonky sub box.. :D My drivers got here today.. :) Now I have TWO eight inch woofers, and TWO 1inch tweeters sitting on the coffee table... :p Do you know anything about breaking in speakers? Someone said they just used music from a radio for 100hours :bigeyes: I wasn't sure if I should feed it the whole frequency range of teh music, or put a filter on it.. :( Also, I wasn't sure if I can just leave the speakers sitting on a table to do it... nor do I know how loud it should be, how far should I cause the speaker cone to move?? :(
 
Radio music would be perfectly fine. My friend used pink noise on his and it did the job. The purpose is just to get them loosened up and to where they will be for the rest of their life span.

Well, if you want to be picky:) This is my first from scratch speaker design with a crossover and I really dont know that much about it project.

I have experience in making the box and so forth, but this is a whole nother level(i think so anyway).
 
I have the drivers in my hands now. I want to get started on the cabinets, and I have ordered cross over parts. I had madisounds leap design serivce done for me.

Win ISD says .1 cube sealed. Has anyone done this woofer sealed before?

Also, in the crossover design, there is what I beleive is a notch filter in the tweeter circuit, and it has a 140mfd cap in it. I bought solen caps for the rest of the crossover, but I bought Bennic non-polar electrolyics for the 140mfd, becasue of cost. Should I have done this? I can always switch it out later, but I really dont like paying $70 for two caps.

Thank you:)
 
onebadziggy said:
I have the drivers in my hands now. I want to get started on the cabinets, and I have ordered cross over parts. I had madisounds leap design serivce done for me.Win ISD says .1 cube sealed. Has anyone done this woofer sealed before?
Also, in the crossover design, there is what I beleive is a notch filter in the tweeter circuit, and it has a 140mfd cap in it. I bought solen caps for the rest of the crossover, but I bought Bennic non-polar electrolyics for the 140mfd, becasue of cost. Should I have done this? I can always switch it out later, but I really dont like paying $70 for two caps.
Thank you:)
I do not think the Caps are so critical.
Non polar Caps are usually quite good quality.
Many of them made mainly for LSP Crossover use.
-------------
What project did you finally settle for?
And what are your drivers/woofers?

Halo
 
I bought Vifa P13's and D27's. Didnt really follow any project, I am just gonna do this on my own I guess. Im going with sealed boxes, and WinISD says .1 cubes, is that a good size?

I also think 140mfd is outragously large, but its on a tweeter zobel network, and I think its centered around 500Hz so Im not too worried about it. I have 6dB/octave main crossovers for them.
 
WinISD says .1 cube

Well I count in liters.

But that .1 cube ft, is at QTC 0.71.
What Qtc one likes, it is a matter of taste.
It gives different slope on the bass rolloff.

The enclosure acts, in fact, like a filter component.
And depending on the size of the box, Vb(Volume box)
you get a different kind of low frequency rolloff.

Values of Qtc above 0.71 upto 1.0 gives a steaper curve.
At 0.71, you get the lowest -3dB frequency.
Values below 0.71 gives a more shallow curve.

If you test with Qtc=0.50 & then 1.00,
you will see the difference between the slope of the curve.
And you can see that for 0.50 box is larger
and for 1.00 box is smaller.

I prefer rather low Qtc. Like 0.55-0.65.
This gives teoretically a better transient responce.
But at the same time the Bass get somewhat dampend.

/halo
 
I'm sorry you had to go through that long post as I already am knowlegdable about Qtc. Sorry for not mentioning that, I just wanted some suggestions on people's experiences.

Anyhoo, I think I will go with a lower alignment becasue of its many benefits. That and I can make the enclosure a sensible size.

How much effect does the baffle size have on the resposne and crossover? I have one designed for a 7" wide by 15" tall baffle and that is rather large for a tweeter and a 5". If I made it 7" wide and perhaps 10" tall would that affect me much or not?

Thank you for the refresher on Qtc by the way halo.
 
Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.