|
|
|||||||
| Home | Forums | Rules | Articles | Store | Gallery | Blogs | Register | Donations | FAQ | Calendar | Search | Today's Posts | Mark Forums Read | Search |
| Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers |
|
Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.
Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving |
|
|
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|
#1 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Minnesota
|
I am looking for advice from those more knowledgeable in the diy world. I have completed a few speaker cabinet designs and now I am ready to try something different. I have at my disposal the line of Behringer electronics (SRC, DEQ, & DCX) to help control the response of the speaker.
I would like to create a metal baffle to mount a midrange and tweeter for dipole use. I am not worried about any other drivers as I already have my bass drivers in cabinets. I guess what I am looking for is ideas on design (thickness, dimensions, support w/ stands), which types of metal would you suggest and why, and where I might purchase the material. I have a friend who works in a metal shop and could cnc the parts for me. All I need is the courage to give this a try. Thanks everyone! |
|
|
|
|
#2 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Houston
|
I don't want to go so far as to say that I'm an acoustics engineer, but speaker enclosures are usually designed to be as acoustically "dead" as possible which means sound deadening and sound absorption is critical in most cases.
Using metal (of any thickness) as a baffle would seem to me to be introducing all sorts of sound goblins you would have to deal with. That's just my .02, and it will take a lot more responses before you get to a $buck.
__________________
Mark |
|
|
|
|
#3 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Cascais
|
Some brand name manufacturers use metal sheet in speaker cabinets. Give a look at (Finland - Ilpo Martikainen) Genelec and their bass boxes (and monitors) made with a round piece of a few millimeters thick.
|
|
|
|
|
#4 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Minnesota
|
Thanks for your responses guys.
Would it be recommended to keep the baffle only a few millimeters thick as it would be all that is needed? Should I stick with a wooden baffle like that of the Orion? I guess I should ask, if someone had the drivers I am considering using, what would you do? I have an AudioTechnology 18H and a neo3 pdr to play with. |
|
|
|
|
#5 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
|
I suggest you start here: Beyond the Ariel
There is a lot being discussed on releasing stored energy. I used to think like SilverFox, but we have been using supposedly acoustically dead boxes for years, yet still looking for the holy grail. One thing I have found is that vibration on an OB is not caused by mechanical coupling from the driver, but via the air. So a dense, reflective material may absorb less energy to store to re-radiate later, blurring the sound. Also, this is worth looking at. http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showt...31#post1188831 some of the techniques there may be applicable to baffles. Geoff. |
|
|
| Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
| Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|
|
|
||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| New type of baffle construction | madisonears | Multi-Way | 2 | 9th January 2009 03:15 AM |
| Baffle Construction Techniques | coolkhoa | Multi-Way | 21 | 4th September 2006 09:34 PM |
| Baffle construction question | Christof | Multi-Way | 2 | 18th February 2005 06:18 AM |
| Construction: The best way to cut a hole for an IEC power inlet into sheet metal | PaulHilgeman | Parts | 10 | 16th October 2003 08:36 PM |
| New To Site? | Need Help? |
| Page generated in 0.08220 seconds (76.69% PHP - 23.31% MySQL) with 10 queries |