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#1 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
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i will try make as much sense as possible and being clear...
i enjoy making for the fun of it. but as a beginner i find it hard to get the box going. not really into the hole kit thing as the drivers i want to use never seem to be in them or harder to get being in the UK or don't seem to look nice to me. if there is a program that could do something like this enter info of driver/ drivers "one of the programs i did try and use had no option for tweeter details do they not need them in a box to tuned it then? then pick what type of port. to what ever fs 2 way or 3 system If it makes difference of the speakers will be. some have them off line or tweeter in the middle. Where to have the port / my self likes the port at the front. Then it will give a simple drawing of how the bits of wood goes together, each size of wood and what thickness e.g 18mm mdf or 12. Dampening the box. e.g where. how much, maybe just on the walls or filling with lambs wall or what ever. crossover is less of a problem as i will be asking the place i order my drivers from if they can do it they said they would just let them know what drivers and so on would even help with the box but im sure thats more money spent. some drivers have different shape other than round so any tips on how to gut them out. i would use a jig. as it is nice and easy also just a little extra bit i have a B&W cc6s2 center speaker in my system i also have a spare crossover and can by the drivers cheap about £25. already have tweeter but i want to make the box rather than by the b&w one. for fun and will be good practice. i would love some help on this if possible port at the front is main thing sorry its alot of reading any help would be good i do not know to alot so no to details i might not understand thanks |
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#2 | ||||
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Bungawalbyn, NSW
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Hi larksp,
Quote:
You will learn a great deal from reading this stuff, and the online programs are great. Quote:
It is no easy task for a beginner to design and build a good speaker, but there are lots of sources of information on the internet to help you along the way. Don't do anything until you have read and basic understanding what 'thiele/ small parameters' are. These technical figures are crutial to designing your box. I don't think you'll find a program to make all the decisions for you, or make you a cutting list, but once you know where you're heading with your project, you'll get help by posting here. Don't forget the search feature... If the question has been asked before, the answer might be here already. Quote:
Quote:
If you really want to understand speaker design, I would really recommend a book called "The loudspeaker design cookbook" by Vance Dickason. It is a great source of information for reference, which you will always be able to find, unlike the internet! Regards, Bob |
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#3 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
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thanks i will have a look at the program.. i understand a bit about the hole speakers and tuning the box goto to be right.
the programs i used. only does mid/bass no others like tweeter. would have to then re-adjust to add the tweeter in. "programs" come out with.... say speaker vented and is (so long) with a volume of 11cf.....some have also listed the outer size. what i would be after is *pick 2-3way *type in the drivers details *adds a tweeter into the box 3 way then the tweeter and sub and mid/s *pick vent or sealed and where it would be placed front or back *shape of box/ bookshelf, floor standing.... *then draws it nothing fancy "with the speakers" just ruff guide and how each bit would goes with a list of the wood needed. *option for wood thickness the first thing i want to build is 2 bookshelf speakers,front ported. driver and tweeter.... kits dont seem right now to use drivers i want but i like the hole joy of making my self with help is ok though ![]() thinking about the peerless HDS Exclusive and any tweeter that would go well with it. i do like a bit of bass and be ported thats the sort of thing im looking 2 do if i was good enough i do just enjoy designing like the boxes witch i could then make and use if i wanted just for fun |
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#4 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
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the picture what i come out with.
but then no tweeter in there and i then would have to work out the size and adding brace in there think the fs might be a bit higher than i like unsure i have a sub so it might not be to bad |
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#5 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Bungawalbyn, NSW
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Going by the results you have there, I would say you have entered some information incorrectly, when 'choosing driver'.
The port is huge, the box is small, and the results are generally wrong. What particular driver are you planning to use. Can you give me the Fs or Fo, Qts, or Qes and Qms, and the Vas and DC resistance? Xmax would also be nice. If not, we are banging our heads on a wall. Sometimes you can get a good idea of what type of enclosure is likely to work best by the size and material of the magnet, the cone material, the softness and material of the surround etc. but without specific parameters, it will be harder to get the system (driver in box) to behave as you wish. I don't want to discourage you from your project, but you will also need a fair understanding of maths. You will need to know how to calculate the box dimensions for a given required volume, and be able to work out the panel sizes for the enclosure. It's not too hard if you draw a picture of a box. |
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#6 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
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i bet i have miss read what format the information is in like i entered cm not mm or what ever
http://www.madisound.com/cgi-bin/ind...18844&pid=1948 there is the driver says at the bottem of it as well what the recommend Vented box of 7 liters (0.25cf); 1.5" port by 4.4" long; F3 65Hz what do i do after that for the adding a tweeter and not the site i will order from but it has more information on the driver and will this give much bass at all? with the hz it out puts seems high ____________ looks like i entered in the ds wrong it in sq m and i entered in the cm2 ____________ |
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#7 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
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now the results come out better
vb 10 l fb 58.2549 f3 55.8195 dv 131.064 mm they said about a 1.5 is that right? lv 1093.84 mm unsure what these do par 3.47675 per 173.837 rg 1.01442 says what they are on the site ![]() dunno if there good or not though |
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#8 |
diyAudio Moderator R.I.P.
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Sorry to say, but it sounds very much like you will get into trouble with this
And to me it sounds like you are not satisfied with available kits quality I will recommend that you build something like this nice little speaker - its hard to find better driver quality http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/W15.htm Or maybe you like this one better http://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/Cup-a-Soup.html |
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#9 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
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why is it bad choice dont need to go into to much details just wondered so to stay away from harder ones
the one you linked.. seems a bit of a small speaker is that about 5inch speaker? plus im not sure if i like the looks of it (tents to be what i go on) long as there ok and price is right.. also like front port looks rear i think maybe it is just the box they put it in do not mean to sound ungrateful they do seem good and the site is very good ![]() my system atm is hd tv b&w cc6 center 4* 3 way speakers bit cheapy things 10inch sub plus the last comment 7th may just scary as thats my bday :P now these is where i got the idea in the first place for those drivers http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/HDS164.htm 2 me those are very nice to look at would like round drivers easier to cut |
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#10 |
diyAudio Moderator R.I.P.
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Its a nice floor speaker - I just thought you asked fore book shelff speakers
It will be a good choise to build that design To leave the xo design to a compagny, and have it custom build to drivers by your own choise, that will never work, sorry |
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