speaker building (beginner)

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i will try make as much sense as possible and being clear...

i enjoy making for the fun of it. but as a beginner i find it hard to get the box going. not really into the hole kit thing as the drivers i want to use never seem to be in them or harder to get being in the UK or don't seem to look nice to me.

if there is a program that could do something like this
enter info of driver/ drivers "one of the programs i did try and use had no option for tweeter details do they not need them in a box to tuned it then?

then pick what type of port. to what ever fs
2 way or 3 system
If it makes difference of the speakers will be. some have them off line or tweeter in the middle.
Where to have the port / my self likes the port at the front.
Then it will give a simple drawing of how the bits of wood goes together,
each size of wood and what thickness e.g 18mm mdf or 12.
Dampening the box. e.g where. how much, maybe just on the walls or filling with lambs wall or what ever.

crossover is less of a problem as i will be asking the place i order my drivers from if they can do it they said they would just let them know what drivers and so on would even help with the box but im sure thats more money spent.

some drivers have different shape other than round so any tips on how to gut them out. i would use a jig. as it is nice and easy


also just a little extra bit
i have a B&W cc6s2 center speaker in my system
i also have a spare crossover and can by the drivers cheap about £25. already have tweeter but i want to make the box rather than by the b&w one.
for fun and will be good practice.

i would love some help on this if possible
port at the front is main thing
sorry its alot of reading any help would be good
i do not know to alot so no to details i might not understand thanks
 
Hi larksp,

if there is a program that could do something like this

http://www.ishtek.com/spkrs.htm

You will learn a great deal from reading this stuff, and the online programs are great.

one of the programs i did try and use had no option for tweeter details do they not need them in a box to tuned it then?

The box volume and port dimensions are designed to manipulate the bass response. There are many other factors to be considered, such as dimensioning the box to avoid accentuating certain frequencies, lining the box with wadding, of filling it completely with wadding, where to place the drivers and port on the cabinet front, and the crossover, etc, etc.

It is no easy task for a beginner to design and build a good speaker, but there are lots of sources of information on the internet to help you along the way.
Don't do anything until you have read and basic understanding what 'thiele/ small parameters' are. These technical figures are crutial to designing your box.

I don't think you'll find a program to make all the decisions for you, or make you a cutting list, but once you know where you're heading with your project, you'll get help by posting here.

Don't forget the search feature... If the question has been asked before, the answer might be here already.

some drivers have different shape other than round so any tips on how to gut them out. i would use a jig. as it is nice and easy

Most oval speakers (which are mostly car speakers) come with a template or pattern for the cutout. A scroll saw/ jig saw is useful here, although you can chain drill them out, then file the remainder, but it's a lot more work.

port at the front is main thing

That will be fine.

If you really want to understand speaker design, I would really recommend a book called "The loudspeaker design cookbook" by Vance Dickason. It is a great source of information for reference, which you will always be able to find, unlike the internet!

Regards,
Bob
 
thanks i will have a look at the program.. i understand a bit about the hole speakers and tuning the box goto to be right.

the programs i used. only does mid/bass
no others like tweeter. would have to then re-adjust to add the tweeter in.
"programs" come out with.... say speaker vented and is (so long)
with a volume of 11cf.....some have also listed the outer size.

what i would be after is
*pick 2-3way
*type in the drivers details
*adds a tweeter into the box
3 way then the tweeter and sub and mid/s
*pick vent or sealed and where it would be placed front or back
*shape of box/ bookshelf, floor standing....
*then draws it nothing fancy "with the speakers" just ruff guide and how each bit would goes with a list of the wood needed.
*option for wood thickness


the first thing i want to build is 2 bookshelf speakers,front ported.
driver and tweeter....
kits dont seem right now to use drivers i want but i like the hole joy of making my self with help is ok though :)

thinking about the peerless HDS Exclusive and any tweeter that would go well with it. i do like a bit of bass and be ported
thats the sort of thing im looking 2 do
if i was good enough i do just enjoy designing like the boxes witch i could then make and use if i wanted
just for fun
 
the picture what i come out with.

but then no tweeter in there and i then would have to work out the size and adding brace in there

think the fs might be a bit higher than i like unsure i have a sub so it might not be to bad
 

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Going by the results you have there, I would say you have entered some information incorrectly, when 'choosing driver'.

The port is huge, the box is small, and the results are generally wrong.

What particular driver are you planning to use. Can you give me the Fs or Fo, Qts, or Qes and Qms, and the Vas and DC resistance? Xmax would also be nice.

If not, we are banging our heads on a wall.

Sometimes you can get a good idea of what type of enclosure is likely to work best by the size and material of the magnet, the cone material, the softness and material of the surround etc. but without specific parameters, it will be harder to get the system (driver in box) to behave as you wish.

I don't want to discourage you from your project, but you will also need a fair understanding of maths. You will need to know how to calculate the box dimensions for a given required volume, and be able to work out the panel sizes for the enclosure. It's not too hard if you draw a picture of a box.
 
i bet i have miss read what format the information is in like i entered cm not mm or what ever

http://www.madisound.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi?cart_id=8343759.18844&pid=1948

there is the driver

says at the bottem of it as well what the recommend

Vented box of 7 liters (0.25cf); 1.5" port by 4.4" long; F3 65Hz

what do i do after that for the adding a tweeter and not the site i will order from but it has more information on the driver
and will this give much bass at all? with the hz it out puts seems high


____________
looks like i entered in the ds wrong
it in sq m
and i entered in the cm2
____________
 
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Joined 2005
why is it bad choice dont need to go into to much details just wondered so to stay away from harder ones


the one you linked.. seems a bit of a small speaker is that about 5inch speaker? plus im not sure if i like the looks of it (tents to be what i go on) long as there ok and price is right.. also like front port looks rear i think
maybe it is just the box they put it in
do not mean to sound ungrateful they do seem good and the site is very good :)

my system atm is hd tv
b&w cc6 center
4* 3 way speakers bit cheapy things
10inch sub

plus the last comment 7th may just scary as thats my bday :p

now these is where i got the idea in the first place for those drivers
http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/HDS164.htm

2 me those are very nice to look at would like round drivers easier to cut
 
At the risk of being simplistic, there are three sets of calculations you are going to have to deal with:

1.) picking a woofer and tweeter that complement each other properly and fit your goals in terms of size, price, performance, visual appearance, etc. (Don't even think about a three way until you've built a two way.)

2. Deciding on the box size, baffle dimensions, port size, and stuffing to match it to the woofer for good bass response

3.) Getting the crossover right for a smooth frequency and phase transition between woofer and tweeter.

If you think the second is hard, wait until you get to the third one! It is hugely more difficult & for most people it is impossible if one has not taken the time to learn the underlying theory and assemble the necessary test equipment to measure the frequency response at least.

I strongly encourage you to read the vance dickason book recommended by the person who posted earlier.

and/or read the articles here:

http://speakerbuilder.net/web_files/Articles/constxo/xoconst.htm

http://speakerbuilder.net/web_files/Articles/xover article/xpointmain.htm

or try one of the introductory designs posted at the same site, such as this one:

http://speakerbuilder.net/web_files/Projects/DBP/dbp.htm

or one of the many excellent designs posted here. There are a very wide range of designs available at a wide range of prices.

If you don't want to do a kit, (and I can understand that decision) Then start with a well-regarded reference design. The reference design would include (1) a specific set of drivers (2) specific dimensions for the cabinet and layout for the front and (3) the schematic for the crossover. Then, build it, but go ahead and experiment as you go: try the box stuffed or unstuffed. Close the port and compare how that sounds vs. with the port open. Try different port lengths. Change the values of the crossover (within reasonable limits so you don't blow out the tweeter) and note the difference it makes. This will give you the fun of experimenting and also the fun of having something that sounds good at the end.

good luck, and enjoy!
 
yes i do want to build 2 book shelf speakers.... and the ones you suggest they will probably produce better sound than i will end up with.

i am just picky on looks i like something a bit different and my own
silly but thats me hehe if the speakers are to hard to use then i will try and find others i like :)
you word is far more than mine if there no good :)

and the cross over i dont know where to begin so this company
is wilmslow-audio

they have there own kits and design boxes and so on just i want to at least try and do something my self to be proud with and learn to get better.

they will design the crossover to the driver units unless some one else is willing to make them.
 
David94114 yes you are very right. i dont even want to try 3way not yet :)

and yes i would be glad to use a set of drivers that match just none that i have seen whats not much..

and i will read up a bit on them as well see what goes in :)

thanks you both for replying it is good. :)

i think the cross over is way off but the box i could do and hopefully that site and talking to them to get a ok one :)

i will try and learn about them im not sure the hole putting it together i can use programs to like design one but then get the strange pictures and looks nothing like a board with stuff on:)

and ahhh its 5am lol i been on these forums today like since 11 am maybe bed time it is
 
Tinitus is right don't build speakers from scratch you will not be happy with the sound quality, unless you are willing to spend lots of time tweaking/find out what is wrong with it and also to help you diagnose the problem, use s/w(free or commercial) to find out whether the x-over is right and also spend time learning on how the speakers work.

Time is the key, building an off the plan speaker is the way to go if you don't have the time and patient.
 
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Joined 2005
:)
Anyone know if these are good - on first hand they appear to be OK, but it kind of looks like a "one size fits all" - if you are into metal cone, I am not

I think THOR and ODIN looks nice though

maybe not as sophisticated xo as the ones by Troels and Zaph
You must be aware that those guys do a lot of fine tuning, which you cannot get or buy cheap elsewhere

http://www.seas.no/kits main page.htm
 
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