Priming MDF boxes - Page 38

ShinOBIWAN · 15th October 2007, 01:09 AM

Excellent. Thanks for the conclusion Gordon. Please update if you make any interesting discoveries or observations.

I can't switch to 2k but I'm certainly going to be moving to epoxy glue instead of PVA. Epoxy seems to be much cheap than Cascamite, any reason for that?

sploo · 15th October 2007, 04:35 PM

Hi Ant,

Kinda surprised you mention that epoxy is cheaper than Cascamite. I was using the West System epoxy, which is pricey, but a little of the Cascamite seems to go a long way, and a big tub is only a tenner.

I also find it nicer to work with, as it's a bit less dangerous for your skin, and much easier to clean up.

On the subject of 2K... I bought a couple of Coolermaster Aero PC fans (a squirrel cage design). A single fan will push way more air than you'd need, through a 32mm internal diameter vacuum hose (no serious static pressure losses as far as I can see). Given the simplicity of the Devilbiss mask, I expect a DIY alternative wouldn't be world's hardest job.

At some point I hope to actually get somewhere with this project, and will post results...

Nordic · 15th October 2007, 05:27 PM

Can't remember if I posted this before... but if you want a realy high gloss finish, see if you can get some Glatex 8, even with a regular 2 inch small foam roller you can get an almost glass smooth and highly durable (they use it on yachts) finish. Little expensive though, expect to pay north of $15 a can. I have done wood surfaces that have almost none of the texture of wood left... it looks like it was made of smooth plastic almost. It is pretty thick and a few coats fills small holes effectively, comes in clear as well as a number of cool bright colours, I think black too..

sploo · 15th October 2007, 08:26 PM

Hi Nordic,

A Google search on "Glatex" hasn't brought too much up, certainly not UK related. Can you give us some more info?

The issue we had wasn't specifically around getting a high gloss finish - there are many routes to that. The problem is that glue lines between sheets of MDF telegraph through many finishes over time.

John (MJL21193) has made some good points with regard to the issues that you need a sealer that won't separate due to some part of its chemical makeup being absorbed by the porous surface. I also wonder if a slight elasticity in the cured product helps (though the 2K isolack dries rock hard, so that may not be an issue).

Nordic · 16th October 2007, 05:59 AM

http://www.woodworkforums.com/archiv...p/t-10932.html

Finding very litte about it on the web, probably marketed under some other name these days... allthough my local DIY shop still have shelves of the stuff.

It is a 2 part finish...

Look towards the botom of that link, you'll see some guys talking about it... it is super durable, and I doubt it would "sink in" over time... it basicaly changes the wood into something with the consistency of bacelite.

Oh it is made by a local company called Plascon. I have never seen varnish that can give an equivalent smooth finish, so I guess it is your best bet at filling cracks and keeping them hidden... some people also use it to coat tool handles.

quickshift · 17th October 2007, 06:19 PM

Something like this sounds like it may be similar.

http://store.nationalpaintsupply.net/blwapoto.html

I would love to find a durable high gloss finish I can use which doesn't need to be sprayed on.

Plenty of marine paint here in the UK too http://www.boatpaint.co.uk/acatalog/index.html and I've asked them to recommend a non-spray high gloss paint.

?? http://www.boatpaint.co.uk/acatalog/...___2_pack.html

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15th October 2007, 01:09 AM	#371
ShinOBIWAN diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: UK	Excellent. Thanks for the conclusion Gordon. Please update if you make any interesting discoveries or observations. I can't switch to 2k but I'm certainly going to be moving to epoxy glue instead of PVA. Epoxy seems to be much cheap than Cascamite, any reason for that?

15th October 2007, 04:35 PM	#372
sploo diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2007	Hi Ant, Kinda surprised you mention that epoxy is cheaper than Cascamite. I was using the West System epoxy, which is pricey, but a little of the Cascamite seems to go a long way, and a big tub is only a tenner. I also find it nicer to work with, as it's a bit less dangerous for your skin, and much easier to clean up. On the subject of 2K... I bought a couple of Coolermaster Aero PC fans (a squirrel cage design). A single fan will push way more air than you'd need, through a 32mm internal diameter vacuum hose (no serious static pressure losses as far as I can see). Given the simplicity of the Devilbiss mask, I expect a DIY alternative wouldn't be world's hardest job. At some point I hope to actually get somewhere with this project, and will post results...

15th October 2007, 05:27 PM	#373
Nordic diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2005	Can't remember if I posted this before... but if you want a realy high gloss finish, see if you can get some Glatex 8, even with a regular 2 inch small foam roller you can get an almost glass smooth and highly durable (they use it on yachts) finish. Little expensive though, expect to pay north of $15 a can. I have done wood surfaces that have almost none of the texture of wood left... it looks like it was made of smooth plastic almost. It is pretty thick and a few coats fills small holes effectively, comes in clear as well as a number of cool bright colours, I think black too..

15th October 2007, 08:26 PM	#374
sploo diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2007	Hi Nordic, A Google search on "Glatex" hasn't brought too much up, certainly not UK related. Can you give us some more info? The issue we had wasn't specifically around getting a high gloss finish - there are many routes to that. The problem is that glue lines between sheets of MDF telegraph through many finishes over time. John (MJL21193) has made some good points with regard to the issues that you need a sealer that won't separate due to some part of its chemical makeup being absorbed by the porous surface. I also wonder if a slight elasticity in the cured product helps (though the 2K isolack dries rock hard, so that may not be an issue).

16th October 2007, 05:59 AM	#375
Nordic diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2005	http://www.woodworkforums.com/archiv...p/t-10932.html Finding very litte about it on the web, probably marketed under some other name these days... allthough my local DIY shop still have shelves of the stuff. It is a 2 part finish... Look towards the botom of that link, you'll see some guys talking about it... it is super durable, and I doubt it would "sink in" over time... it basicaly changes the wood into something with the consistency of bacelite. Oh it is made by a local company called Plascon. I have never seen varnish that can give an equivalent smooth finish, so I guess it is your best bet at filling cracks and keeping them hidden... some people also use it to coat tool handles.

17th October 2007, 06:19 PM	#376
quickshift diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: West London	Something like this sounds like it may be similar. http://store.nationalpaintsupply.net/blwapoto.html I would love to find a durable high gloss finish I can use which doesn't need to be sprayed on. Plenty of marine paint here in the UK too http://www.boatpaint.co.uk/acatalog/index.html and I've asked them to recommend a non-spray high gloss paint. ?? http://www.boatpaint.co.uk/acatalog/...___2_pack.html

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