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#21 |
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Did it Himself
diyAudio Member
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Sploo like you I wondered about the warning on the tin or wood hardener. I actually rang Ronseal tech support and talked it over with them. They said basically it's just intended for use on rotting real wood, not MDF. He couldn't really say why it's not a surface treatment other than it's for damaged patches of wood rather than big areas.
However, it won't stop me using it as the results are good. It's just a shame it's so expensive. I'd be really interested in how you get on with the epoxy again. Maybe instead of the West Systems (which is expensive?) you could try normal stuff used by car bodyshops. You can get it from Halfords, in yellow tins.
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www.readresearch.co.uk my website for UK diy audio people - designs, PCBs, kits and more |
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#22 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: UK
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Quote:
I say this because I have the first test piece I tried this out on in the garage still and came across it a month or so ago and discovered lots of these fractures. I've got older bits of untreated MDF up there and they're fine. I can only assume its something to do with the hardener and the climate. I never noticed this problem on the Perceives though. I'm wondering if thats what the tech support and warning labels were trying to get at? BTW I used the Bonda stuff but it looks to be the same thing as the Ronseal. |
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#23 | ||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
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Quote:
The West System epoxy isn't cheap - 16 quid for about 600g. However, the coverage is pretty reasonable. I don't have the figures in front of me right now, but I think it was something like 6-8m^2 per kilo. Hadn't thought about getting something from Halfwits. Will have to take a look the next time I visit. Quote:
BTW I'm reading through your 'LGT' Construction Diary, and I'm stunned at the stuff you're doing without any CNC gear. I still make plenty of foul-ups, but it's a little easier now that I'm running a CNC router. |
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#24 | ||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: UK
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Quote:
I never observed anything like that with a fully treated cabinet though, which adds further weight to what your saying. Quote:
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#25 |
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Did it Himself
diyAudio Member
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I coated both sides, and it's maybe not been long enough to for faults to show yet. Also the cabs have been kept in the house so maybe big moisture changes have not been seen.
Handy to know somebody with a CNC router
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www.readresearch.co.uk my website for UK diy audio people - designs, PCBs, kits and more |
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#26 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
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sorry just a small question rather than a new thread richie00boy
did u upload that program yet ? |
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#27 |
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Did it Himself
diyAudio Member
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You would have been better just posting again on the thread in question, it then shows up to me that a new reply is there
No I said I would do you a design if you gave me the details I asked for, as the program was not at a stage I was happy to release.
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www.readresearch.co.uk my website for UK diy audio people - designs, PCBs, kits and more |
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#28 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
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ok thats cool. was not to make anything with just see how it work but anyway different subject back to priming lol
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#29 | |||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
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Quote:
Quote:
These days, I can get home from work, draw a few lines and circles in a CAD package, wander into the garage, and have something cut, all in a couple of hours. Well, apart from when I make one of about 500 different type of mistakes (I'm very inventive - always working out a new way to screw up Quote:
The CNC gear is useful (took me long enough to save up for it)! I'm based in Oxfordshire, so if you're after stuff cutting, then I'm quite happy to discuss the possibility. |
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#30 |
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Did it Himself
diyAudio Member
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Thanks, it would likely be odd smallish panels really. Stuff that would be hard to do by hand.
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