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#8201 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
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#8202 | |
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diyAudio Moderator
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I'm surprised that you were able to get where you need to with electrical crossovers at the same point - 700Hz. In my A5 there was such a rising response from the woofer that I had to electrically cross it much lower. I.E., i had to spread the electrical points to get the acoustic points to sum. It's nice that you did not have to do the frequency spread that I did. Your LTO box size is also surprisingly small, which is a great thing for living rooms.
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#8203 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Sunny Tustin, SoCal
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I write for www.enjoythemusic.com in the DIY section. You may find yourself getting a preview of a project in-progress. Be warned! |
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#8204 |
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diyAudio Member
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yea but it's been so much fun who cares?
My vote goes yes for any form of Decca London style cartridge. That blurb was one of the few advertising spiels I can entirely agree with, but that's just my opinion.
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"You and I and every other thing are a dependent arising, empty of any inherent reality" Tsong Ko Pa |
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#8205 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Northern Colorado
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To RockLeeEV:
I'm still going to use the RAAL Lazy Ribbons for my own personal system. For one thing, I own them; Alexander was kind enough to send me the first prototypes he built, and I'm certainly going to use them. They sound absolutely wonderful and are a superb match for the Altec/GPA 288 and Radian 745Neo compression drivers. Although they are pricey, they are in a different league than the standard RAAL - much more dynamic, and do not need in-band equalization. Cross them over with a 3rd or 4th-order highpass, and you're good to go. I also found out that typical (non-RAAL) ribbons are not such a good dynamic match for compression drivers - you wouldn't think that a ribbon crossed over at 7 to 10 kHz would need much in the way of dynamics, but it's audible as dynamic flattening and a certain lack of tonal vividness right at the top of the spectrum. Integrating a conventional ribbon with a small-format compression driver might work out better, since they don't have the seemingly unlimited dynamics of large-format drivers, but then again, small-formats typically make it out to 15 to 20 kHz without any help from supertweeters. Heil AMT-type drivers are also a good match, with dynamics similar to compression drivers - you just need to use an AMT with efficiency of 99 dB/meter/watt or higher. The horn supertweeters were more problematic than I expected. Dynamically, yes, they match the large-format driver, but many of them have a sandpapery coarseness to the sound that spoils the effortless silky smoothness of the 288 or Radian 745Neo. In other words, the small-format metal-diaphragm sound comes back - pinched, tight, and harsh. I haven't tried the hard-to-find EV T350 with the phenolic diaphragm; prices in the collector market are as high as a new RAAL Lazy Ribbon, and I'm always reluctant to recommend unobtanium for any project. The other downside of many horn supertweeters is surprisingly poor dispersion, with beamwidths that don't seem to be any greater than 20 to 30 degrees in the 10 to 20 kHz top octave. Sure, you can throw crazy money at a horn supertweeter and get a Goto or Ales, but the ones I've heard didn't sound any better than the RAAL Lazy Ribbon, and were way more expensive with limited dispersion. To Corelement: Sorry, I don't have anything to do with the Jamo speakers. I've seen photos of them, but I've never even heard one, so can't comment one way or the other. Olson is a very common name for people of Scandinavian ancestry, and folks from the frozen North seem attracted to audio - the long dark winters, maybe? To Badman: I avoided horn speakers for decades because I was afraid of going down the rabbit hole on horn design. I didn't really like the sound of commercial horns, and it took a huge amount of research to reach the point of collaborating with JMLLC, Bjorn Kolbrek and Martin to get the sound I wanted. I'm finally out on the other side of that now - the rest of the speaker is a lot easier to design. The resulting AH425 is a nice little bonus for people who are interested in integrating a medium-size horn into their own speaker designs. The dipole project was waylaid by the ugly necessity of massive equalization; not a problem for the transistor folks, but the amps I enjoy are direct-heated triode and pentode amplifiers with pretty modest power outputs. Last edited by Lynn Olson; 5th October 2012 at 08:35 AM. |
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#8206 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
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- but where are the Lazy's compared to say the 288's with regards to sensitivity?
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#8207 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Aarhus, Denmark
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Yes, we are pretty productive here in Scandinavia when it comes to audio. ![]() Especially Denmark is known for some famous brands in audio, e.g.: Gryphon Audio, Vitus Audio, Dali, Bang & Olufsen, Lyngdorf Audio, Steinway Lyngdorf, Dynaudio, Scan-Speak, Duelund, Audio Technology, Hørning Hybrid The first practical application of moving-coil loudspeakers was established by Danish engineer Peter L. Jensen and Edwin Pridham, in Napa, California. I'm proud to be a dane! We also have a long tradition for DIY here in Denmark, Norway & Sweden. One of the better speaker web-sites on the web might be of your interest: Troels Gravesen. Lynn, can we have a picture of your prototype speakers? Have you considered using a horn/waveguide in front of the GPA/Altec 416B as in some of the older Altec and JBL speakers?
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"People can't do what they should: room acoustics and speaker design - so they do what they can: new amps, cables etc." (Lidia) |
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#8208 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Washington State
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Lynn ... you mentioned 1" drivers for mids which requires a different AH horn if going that direction or would need an adapter for the 425's. How about manifolding a 425 so you could have the good 2" horn and use two alnico 1" drivers on each horn. Not sure of availability for adapters, eBay? My manifolds are JBL with screw-on 1"; perfect for Atlas alnico's (uncle Paul seemed to do well with them) or flat adapters into manifold can use other drivers (Altec, JBL, etc.).
No clue how they will sound but it's an idea. You would always have tweets for the top end if they suck in higher ranges. I know they would not be a production thing; mainly aimed at us DIYers. Zene |
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#8209 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Washington State
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All, let me clarify last post. Edit didn't take (Pano?) Errors from stupidity abounded.
Lynn ... you mentioned 1" drivers for mids. How about manifolding a 2" horn and use two alnico 1" drivers on each horn? Not sure of availability for them, eBay? My manifolds are JBL with screw-in 1"; perfect for Atlas alnico's (uncle Paul seemed to do well with them). No clue how they will sound but it's an idea. You would always have tweets for the top end if they suck in higher ranges. I will be using two JBL 2420's. I know they would not be a production thing; mainly aimed at us DIYers. I will be using two JBL 2420's. Zene |
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#8210 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
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You can get an adapter to 1.4" at a reasonable price here:
You can get an adapter to 1.4" at a reasonable price here: Altec Lansing GPA 21216 21216A Horn Adaptor NEW | eBay I would think manifolding 2 x drivers really only achieves more power, which you don't need. If you want to depart further from Lynn's spec and raise the cross over point JBL2420s sound great on 550Hz le Cleac'h horns - possibly 550 horns are more suitable for 1" drivers in general. That's my impression. Bear in mind the plot is with the mic at the horn mouth - purely to show horn/driver interaction - not a standard or comparable method. No flames please. http://azurahorn.com/JBL2420_on_550.pdf martin |
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