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Old 5th August 2014, 04:39 AM   #11
RXV is offline RXV  Philippines
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Just use the stock screw holes and screw them as they should be.

If you're afraid if possibly puncturing the cone, then put a small piece of thick carton or dense sheet (vinyl) on top of the cone to cover it (while screwing) and prevent any accidents in case they would happen.

Most (if not all) MA drivers have rubber gaskets included so that no air leakage would occur, if that's what you're after
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Old 5th August 2014, 04:41 AM   #12
RXV is offline RXV  Philippines
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And besides, by gluing your drivers, your screw holes would show up empty (holes) without the supplied hex screws. Not aesthetically pleasing IMO.
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Old 5th August 2014, 07:30 AM   #13
spekr is offline spekr  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by planet10 View Post
Glue is a bad idea IMO.

dave
Why?
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Old 5th August 2014, 03:00 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RXV View Post
And besides, by gluing your drivers, your screw holes would show up empty (holes) without the supplied hex screws. Not aesthetically pleasing IMO.
fill the holes in the surround cover and spray, or rebate slightly deeper and cut a surround cover
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Old 5th August 2014, 06:02 PM   #15
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
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Originally Posted by spekr View Post
Why?

Well for one thing, I think that production issues have required that Mark's drivers are no longer shipped with attached "super gaskets" and the webbing on rear side of injection molded resin frames would require rather lot of glue, which could get very messy.


While I find them longer than required when drivers are rebated, the supplied screws work very well, and as RXV noted, a piece of cardboard or such should provide the required prophylaxis
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Old 5th August 2014, 09:22 PM   #16
spekr is offline spekr  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisb View Post
Well for one thing, I think that production issues have required that Mark's drivers are no longer shipped with attached "super gaskets" and the webbing on rear side of injection molded resin frames would require rather lot of glue, which could get very messy.
Do you have a picture how the rear looks like now without the gasket?
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Old 5th August 2014, 10:12 PM   #17
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
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From a several year old dead A12M, but I don't think the frame casting has changed much - on this particular frame, those webs are 6mm deep - less on other models, but I've never needed to measure them before
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Old 6th August 2014, 12:26 AM   #18
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
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Re the question of damping the drivers, in combination with the (now) separate gaskets and resin composite frames (with exception of new CHN70) , the MA drivers are rather well damped to start with - but if you want to increment that, a layer of closed cell foam weather stripping on the enclosure baffle and under torquing the mounting screws should provide sufficient isolation, while maintaining acoustic seal.
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Old 6th August 2014, 09:05 AM   #19
spekr is offline spekr  United States
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Originally Posted by chrisb View Post
From a several year old dead A12M, but I don't think the frame casting has changed much - on this particular frame, those webs are 6mm deep - less on other models, but I've never needed to measure them before
Thanks! Looks like the cavities would provide additional area so glueing the driver would work even better.
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Old 6th August 2014, 09:41 AM   #20
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Could you glue the magnet to some sort of bracing? And support it from behind instead?
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