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Old 25th February 2014, 06:17 PM   #21
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I like cat 5. I have about 50 miles installed across 36 data centers.
I just would not use it for my speakers.
In my opinion #18 zip cord is better in this application.
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Old 25th February 2014, 07:20 PM   #22
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I am fine using regular 18 awg cable. It is definitely eaiser to install.

Crossing over at 60 hz is exactly what I want to hear. From what I have heard with car audio I don't like the subs at 100 hz. Crossing at 60 will make it much harder to pinpoint sub location as well, and make the speakers sound more powerful.

I am planing one sub up front and one in the back corner. If it works with the room accoustics that is.
I will have 3 sub hook up locations along each side and one in each back corner just in case. It is alot cheaper to run wire before hand.
The front will be a false wall so I will be able to do anything behind it.
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Old 25th February 2014, 07:54 PM   #23
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
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On the other hand, if you experiment with XO into the low 100+ range when using wideband drivers for the mains, and particularly the centre, I think you'll find a bit more headroom. It's amazing what a change of 30Hz can do in that respect at this end of the spectrum - and after trying multiple (at least 2) smaller subs vs a single larger, I'd never go back to the single. Even with a single mono mixed LFE channel it makes a huge difference in terms of distribution and evening out hot / null spots

BTW, isn't 80Hz the default LFE XO point recommended by THX? Any lower than that could well limit headroom of 10P's in the front row with more "vigorous" effects content - you know, the blowed 'em good explosions and car crashes etc.




FWIW: from Audyssey's site:

Quote:

Chris Kyriakakis :
If you have a subwoofer in your system, you should always use bass management in the AVR. Unfortunately this is not always the default setting and several manufacturers still insist on setting speakers to “Large” or “Full Range”. Doing so will prevent bass from being redirected to your subwoofer from the satellite channels. Audyssey recommends to manually change all speakers to “Small” (i.e. set a crossover frequency for each speaker in the manual settings menu) thus enabling proper bass management. This has the additional benefit of much better low frequency correction because MultEQ uses filters with 8x more resolution in the subwoofer channel. More information about this can be found on our blog post here.
The LFE signal and the bass management crossover are two different things.
The crossover is responsible for taking the bass from the speakers and sending it to the subwoofer. That should be set at around the frequency where your speakers are no longer able to reproduce bass. This is called the crossover frequency.
In 5.1 content, there is an additional bass-only track called the LFE track. This is not played from the main speakers, but only from the subwoofer. This track is authored to have content up to 120 Hz and so the filter in the AVR called LFE Lowpass should be set to 120 Hz. Always. It is a mistake for AVR makers to even make this an option as it has nothing to do with bass management.
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Last edited by chrisb; 25th February 2014 at 08:02 PM.
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Old 26th February 2014, 12:00 AM   #24
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I see what you are saying. Ultimately the room, and interaction of the speakers in what ever boxes I end up using, will decide. If it ends up sounding better to cross at 80 or 100 than so be it. I also have not heard the Rythmik subs in the 60 to 100 range either.

I am shooting for a well balanced system where all the components complement each other and the sum is greater than all the parts. so to speak.

I also want to see my wife's jaw hit the floor, because she thinks this is all a waste of time.

Don't forget I am not trying to go for thx 105-115db. 80db is plenty. I am just looking for a excellent quality 80db from 20hz on up to what ever my ears can still hear!

I also plan to use the system as well for music Jazz oldies etc.
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Old 26th February 2014, 03:25 AM   #25
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
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Very reasonable goals, actually - unlike some I've encountered (my own not excluded)
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Old 26th February 2014, 12:01 PM   #26
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I learned long ago in car audio to keep the volume down a bit if I didn't want constant ringing in my ears!
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Old 26th February 2014, 04:21 PM   #27
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
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yup, the combination of loss from age and industruial noise, and tinitus is a bitch
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Old 2nd March 2014, 01:31 AM   #28
mt490 is offline mt490  Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maxximus View Post
I am fine using regular 18 awg cable. It is definitely eaiser to install.
The two greatest reasons for me to not use CAT cable for speakers is the candy colour look and the relatively delicate insulation.

I prefer the fairly common (down-under) twin and earth in 1.5 or 2.5 square mm. Earth doubled up - it isn't worth trying to get a hold of pure twin in this style since it's use is rare these days due to the electrical standards used down under. Robust, a relatively neutral white outer insulation that's easy to handle and plenty of copper that's pretty flexible as long as you don't buy single core.
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Old 2nd March 2014, 06:32 PM   #29
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
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Can we not waste anymore time blathering about (de)merits of wire type and gauges, and get back to the more relevant issues of design / configuration of the HT system itself?

If the application specs haven't changed since the opening few posts, 10Ps for front row and, if keeping with paper cones, CHP70s for all 4 channels of effects surrounds should be a great system. Got me thinking again about redoing my own - thanks, I think?
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Old 3rd March 2014, 04:13 PM   #30
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I agree on the wire issue. I can nail down what I am going to use after the boxes are built.

I am actually planning on using 7 10p speakers. If there is a single sound from the back speaker I want it to sound the same as the front. My reason for going with 7.2 is some blue rays are recorded in 7.2. I think as time goes on this will become more common.

Hey Dave if you are reading this, I shot you a email on this site a while back did You get it?.
I am looking to see if plans for the mar-ken 10p are out, and the cost for a cad program for seven of them and two sub boxes will be.
I found a local cnc wood shop with a low hourly rate. Feel free to pm me the cost.
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