CHR 70 Contraption - Page 2 - diyAudio
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Old 26th October 2013, 04:55 AM   #11
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And the moment of truth..

Click the image to open in full size.

Ahh, perfect. Does anyone else breath a sigh of relief at this stage in their projects?

After my many previous failed efforts at cutting these damned holes I am very pleased that I have mastered it. I have a nifty excel spreadsheet that I developed during this process of trial and error that gives me help with which hole to pivot around on the jig. It also does the metric /imperial conversion since Jasper haven't made a metric version (yet).
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Old 26th October 2013, 11:16 AM   #12
jimbro is offline jimbro  United States
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On the pic with the brass bolt - shouldn't the t-nut be on the other side of the brace?
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Old 27th October 2013, 01:23 AM   #13
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimbro View Post
On the pic with the brass bolt - shouldn't the t-nut be on the other side of the brace?

if used at all - try threaded inserts instead - Hafele certainly has those in their catalog as well
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Old 28th October 2013, 02:16 AM   #14
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Jimbro. Thanks. I didn't realise. But I can see that makes sense - otherwise I am pulling the t-nut out when I tighten the bolt> Duh! Mistake number 156. Now how do I fix that without tearing out the braces?

Chrisb - What is Hafele? And can you recommend a type of threaded insert for this?

Thanks to both of you for the help...
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Old 28th October 2013, 03:08 PM   #15
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
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jules - photo in your post #10 - label on "jam jar" of presumed assembly screws

Hafele - international distributor of a cabinet hardware among many products

Hfele Hardware Technology: Furniture fittings, architectural hardware and the electronic locking system Dialock -


I frequently use their threaded insert fitting 030.00.119 as seen on catalog page 294

https://hachol02.hafeleonline.com/OA...C03C3BE927031#
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Last edited by chrisb; 28th October 2013 at 03:15 PM.
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Old 29th October 2013, 11:52 AM   #16
jimbro is offline jimbro  United States
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Not sure I see the problem with moving the t-nut. Can't you just pry it off and stick it on the other side? Draw it in by tightening the bolt. I'd add some epoxy around the flange to make sure it doesn't fall out. Like Chris, I prefer threaded inserts but sometimes it's just easier to work with what you've got.
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Old 29th October 2013, 05:13 PM   #17
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
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Jim's quite right of course - just be careful to to get any epoxy holding the threads!

now, how would he know what a bitch that can be?
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Old 29th October 2013, 09:51 PM   #18
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Jim. Thanks. That worked.
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Old 30th October 2013, 07:24 AM   #19
glemmy is offline glemmy  Sweden
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I recall seeing a commercial speaker with some sort of divider in the middle of the baffle to increase the stereo separation. It was basically a single cabinet stereo speaker with a plate mounted perpendicular to the baffle between the two speakers.
Could this be something to experiment with? There might of course be some more important things to focus on.
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Old 2nd November 2013, 06:05 AM   #20
SirByrd is offline SirByrd  United States
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How tight are your drivers in the hole? I couldn't get my jasper jig to cut a hole that would make them both easily removable and also not have a 1/16" gap around it, so I had to custom make a circle jig that was a metric outer diameter. Yours look pretty good as far as size goes, and I assume the recess is to account for gasket material?
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