surface mounting 10.2

[TiMBoZ]

you would hear (and measure) it quite easily

a severe surface discontinuity if not flush mounted

It's a 10mm flange. By flush mounting all your doing is extending the 'diffraction artifacts' from the edge of the frame/flange to the edge of the box. Unless soundnovice listens in a perfectly tuned room and listens to his system from side on - I don't think your point is relevant to "effect the sound quality considerably' You're wizzing in his ear.

[Scottmoose]

Actually you're not. You're adding another surface discontinuity, with another set of diffraction issues, not simply moving one. The edges of the baffle don't suddenly vanish because a driver is surface mounted. This is all just basic acoustical engineering, not arcane black magic. Sorry, but I can't change the laws of physics to suit your beliefs. The fact remains: all of the MA drivers are designed for flush, not surface mounting, and if you want to get the best performance from them, that is what is needed. Simple as that. I wouldn't state it otherwise.

I suggest you take a gander at this: Zaph|Audio Recall also that these are not woofers; they're wideband units with very wide dispersion for such types. Oh, by the way: I'd appreciate it if you'd stop calling me a liar.

[soundnovice]

i guess flush mounting is worth the extra effort...i shall sweat some more instead of losing on performance offered by greatly engineered MA drivers...thanks for details Scottmoose

[Scottmoose]

For the sake of a little bit more work during the construction, it's worth doing. Looks better too. Frankly, since I'm the world's worst woodworker, I wish it didn't. We're not talking huge changes here, but they're sufficient to justify the extra effort.

[Kjeldsen]

speaker cloth on thick felt, is a fine way to avoid flush mount. Just cut a hole that equals the outer diameter.

[soundnovice]

i am using 18mm MDF. for flushmounting a stepping depth of 12mm is done. so only 6mm is left for mounting the driver! is it sufficient to hold the driver firmly? or i should add another 18mm MDF wood to increase the baffle thickness?

[soundnovice]

Originally Posted by Kjeldsen

speaker cloth on thick felt, is a fine way to avoid flush mount. Just cut a hole that equals the outer diameter.

seems to be a good idea. i guess it works something like tweeter diffraction rings

[Scottmoose]

Yes, that's one alternative way, basically similar to using cork per my original post. As a bonus, it can help with edge diffraction from the box too.

The depth of the MA flange / frame is one of the issues that does come up quite often since it leaves little material for physical mounting if the more common sheet material thicknesses are used to build the boxes. If you're using MDF, I'd advise doubling, or at least laminating another 12mm to the front baffle in any case to compensate for its poor stiffness.

[Bob Brines]

Originally Posted by soundnovice

i am using 18mm MDF. for flushmounting a stepping depth of 12mm is done. so only 6mm is left for mounting the driver! is it sufficient to hold the driver firmly? or i should add another 18mm MDF wood to increase the baffle thickness?

A definite issue. I always use 24mm or thicker material for the baffle with MA drivers for just this reason.

Bob

[fastbike1]

You don't necessarily need a double thick baffle. An additional plate (behind the baffle) just large enough to cover the mounting screw area would be sufficient. It would need to be opened / chamfered.

Originally Posted by soundnovice

i am using 18mm MDF. for flushmounting a stepping depth of 12mm is done. so only 6mm is left for mounting the driver! is it sufficient to hold the driver firmly? or i should add another 18mm MDF wood to increase the baffle thickness?