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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Dhaka
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Given the 11.8mm thickness of the A12P frame, a 19mm front baffle piece should ideally be made thicker by adding a layer of 4mm or 6mm material.
In my previous Pensil12 build, I had added a 6mm layer of ply from the top of the front baffle roughly 16" down. I did not run it the full length, as I suspected that would result in increasing port depth from 19mm to 25mm and affect tuning. I am in the process of building a Pensil 12.2P and this time would prefer a flat front baffle - hence am planning to add the layer on the inside. I have attached an illustration of what I want to do - run a 25" 6mm thick piece from the inside top; cross section is maintained throughtout this length, and the layer ends roughly 8" away from the port (resulting in this last part having a slightly greater internal depth of 260mm instead of 254mm). Hope I am not affecting the line in any way? Thanks, Zia Last edited by zman01; 20th December 2012 at 05:23 PM. |
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#2 |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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If you want to be anal you could add a few mm to the depth.
dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Dhaka
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#4 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
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Quote:
Last edited by mp9; 20th December 2012 at 05:57 PM. |
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#5 | |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Quote:
dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Dhaka
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mp9, thanks for your thoughts - btw, what did you end up building?
Dave, Sorry, if I have confused you - I don't have less depth (I think). Plan says internal depth should be 254 mm throughout. I have 254mm internal depth for top 25" of the cabinet (as per plan) I have 260 mm dept for the remainder (~10.5") - resulting in slightly larger cab volume; I shall be using bracing and cleats though. Port size stays faithful to plan at ~19mm. Last edited by zman01; 20th December 2012 at 06:38 PM. |
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#7 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
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Quote:
I'm ready to build now but can't decide between the Standard Pencil or wait to see how topsy's MLTL turns out leaving it as a option. The two are so close in size and probably suited to similar listening environments that i wouldn't want to have both if the MLTL ends up besting the Resonant Air Coupler Pencil's in overall refinement. I do however have all materials and tools ready to go. Was disappointed with the Jasper jig so sent it back and built my own circle cutting jig out of a scrap sheet 3/8" plexi i picked up for $6 ![]() ![]() ![]()
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Dhaka
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Hey, that jig looks smart. You need to publish plans for that!
![]() Colin's MLTL also looks good - also designed by Scott. Look forward to his listening impressions once he's done with the build. You take care of your arm and self. Nothing to be embarassed about - some of these builds end up spanning over long periods. I have an unfinished build on a FAST design provided by Dave which had I started in Feb or March but never got to mounting the drivers! |
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