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Old 17th September 2012, 12:29 AM   #1
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Default Bracing for Pencil 10.2

I am going to build a Pencil 10.2 and wondering if bracing is needed. Should I employ the bracing for Super Pencil 12? If yes, do I have to adjust the internal size?

Thanks, Brian
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Old 17th September 2012, 01:01 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dekiller View Post
I am going to build a Pencil 10.2 and wondering if bracing is needed. Should I employ the bracing for Super Pencil 12? If yes, do I have to adjust the internal size?

Thanks, Brian
Hello Brian,
I've got some beautiful Pensil 10's from Linfof (Japan) made from solid Japanese white birch wood. Very dense and heavy required no bracing. However, Dave (Planet 10), Chris B and others have much experience with plywood where depending on wall thickness, some bracing could be desirable.

Please don't adjust the internal box dimensions.

Cheers
Mark.
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Old 17th September 2012, 05:49 AM   #3
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Hi Mark,

I am going to use solid Oak, so bracing seems not necessary. Thanks for your information.
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Old 17th September 2012, 06:55 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dekiller View Post
Hi Mark,

I am going to use solid Oak, so bracing seems not necessary. Thanks for your information.

I'd suggest that you still leave the option for adding at least minimal lateral bracing between side panels and front to back (i.e. cut & dry fit the material for braces during assembly) . If the Pensil enclosures are built as recommended on the plans - with removable back panels - adding the bracing after the fact should still be fairly easy.
If your listening tests confirm that bracing is not required, then you're not really out much time or material, and if you do need it, then all you need to do is move the fill material a bit and add the glue.



But then I've never built an enclosure this large from solid hardwoods, and certainly not as dense as those cited above. In truth, the only solid wood enclosures I've personally assembled were one of Bernie's kits for cedar microfonkens - a design that like all of Dave's, inherently includes substantial bracing.
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Old 17th September 2012, 10:06 AM   #5
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Solid oak?

Nice material (I'm a sucker for oak), but owing to the grain structure, it can ring, so you may need some bracing. Depends on the exact type of lumber you're using; whether it's completely solid, or jointed &c. I'm a rubbish builder, but I know the theory reasonably well.
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Old 17th September 2012, 01:39 PM   #6
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Bracing isn't for structural reasons, it's to kill panel resonance. You will need some kind of bracing. 3/4 x 3/4 (18mm x 18mm ) strips running vertically down the long panels may be sufficient.


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Hi Mark,

I am going to use solid Oak, so bracing seems not necessary. Thanks for your information.
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Old 17th September 2012, 04:41 PM   #7
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Thanks for all of the above kind advices. The solid Oak I choose is jointed and weatherproved. I just custom ordered them from a professonal builder, not by me. I have no knowledge about speaker building. Hope this trial will be a success.

Thanks, Brian
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