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#31 |
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diyAudio Member
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Dave is the guru on this, but I'll take my shot at what he's saying.
The first derivative is a measure of the slope of the curve, of the FR curve. If the slope is up then the first derivative is larger than zero, if the slope is down the first derivative is negative, if there is no slope and its dead flat then the first derivative is zero. You also get a flat spot on the FR curve at the top of a bump or at the bottom of a hollow. And either side of the top of a bump or bottom of a hollow, the slope of the FR curve changes from going up (or down) to going down (or up). So over the course of a bump or hollow in the curve the first derivative will change sign (from + to -, or from - to +) and in doing so it 'crosses zero'. So no first derivative rule means no bumps or hollows in the FR plot. The 'wrong' choice of box size and/or port dimensions will product bumps/hollws in the FR plot. To play with this I use this excellent BR calculator which shows the FR plot: Loudspeaker enclosure calculating with Thiele Small parameter I used Dave's approach to tuning up my Martello enclosure and to my ears it sounds good.
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"The test of the machine is the satisfaction it gives you. There isn't any other test. If the machine produces tranquility it's right. If it disturbs you it's wrong until either the machine or your mind is changed." Robert M Pirsig. Last edited by Bigun; 3rd May 2012 at 03:02 AM. |
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#32 | |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Quote:
When looking at bass extention pay attention to F10, Toole determined that F3 doesn't tell you much (which was pretty much understood already). You can't tune the 7L much higher with a round vent as it will become underdamped. My tuning assumes a high-R vent which knocks the bump down (increased damping -- the highR vent also makes for higher tolerance to dynamic T/S changes as they move along their curves). dave
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community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#33 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
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Okay. I think I'm following you Bigun. Where I was getting lost is that at no point after 100hz does the FR go above 0+. Though you see two bumps they're below zero as stated in a previous post. I'll see if I can smooth out the response to have zero bumps and a gradual roll off. So what is the general consensus here? Are we aiming for something about 8liter tuned to 55hz? Someone shoot me a target enclosure size and tuning and I can play around from there. I'd like to start slingin' some saw dust by Friday.
Thanks, Steven Edit: Posted at the same time as Dave's post which answers the questions I asked in this post. Last edited by StevenZ; 3rd May 2012 at 03:14 AM. |
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#34 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
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Awesome, thanks Dave! So by high-R vent, you mean using a high resistive vent, something like the 1" you advised of in a previous post, correct? Looks like I'll be knocking down some cabinets pretty soon.
-Steven |
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#35 |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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To have a high R vent it needs to have a high aspect ratio and as long as you can get away with.
dave
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community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#36 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
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So, here we are today. I'll go with your recommendation of a 9L box tuned to 60hz with a 1" port. When I plug all this into my box calculator it tells me that the port should be 1" long. Could you confirm this?
Thanks, Steven |
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#37 | |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Quote:
dave
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community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#38 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Victoria, B.C.
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FWIW, here's a screen shot of a 9 litre box with 1.5" (38mm) long vent.
heff |
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#39 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Bristol
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#40 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
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