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#21 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Dhaka
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No Spec, the DIY board isn't exactly the same as the genus33d - I'm no expert, but my understading is the genus33d has a DSP built in and allows you to set XO digitally, right?
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#22 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Wollongong, Australia
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Quote:
If the above is correct it would make for a nice tri amp for some 3 ways. |
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#23 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Wollongong, Australia
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Been doing a little planning over the last few days.
I cant sink any money into it yet, Lost my housemate so rent has been expensive! I have been looking into speaker bracing, I thought it was suggested somewhere but cant find the reference. Would a simple brace on the back of the speaker be needed? I was thinking of a simple "K" shaped frame with the vertical part of the" K" on the back of the speaker. This would also provide a box brace as well. I tried to find some information on designing speaker braces after seeing all these crazy designs with holes all though them. Do the holes have any rules to them, or make any changes to the box design, or are they more of a lightening weight feature. thanks |
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#24 |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Holey to let air pass thru them. To create a changing box width perpendicular to the brace. To break up panel resonances.
If you are actually going to brace the driver, you want a solid path to the back of the box. Holes typically 30-40% the area of the panel. dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#25 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Dhaka
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Just to add to what Dave has already stated above, the holes should be spaced as such that they do not weaken the brace (too many holes closely put togther or too close to edges might do that).
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#26 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Wollongong, Australia
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Slow update, A housemate has been found, and my bank account will be back to normal.
Might start building the box's next weekend ![]() Started making some wires for the project, Decided to give the cat 5 platted style, I got 9 pairs total in a 3x3 configuration, Some Techflex braid and bannana plugs on the way. Never going to braid again haha, That stuff is time consuming, Need to do 1 more meter for the wires inside the box's Next Q would be on deadening suggestions inside the box. I was planning on painting the entire inside with body deadner, Adding some foam as mentioned in the plans, Filling the Spare area with quarts sand as noted in the plans as well. Might also as something on the angled part behind the driver, and Stuff with some Dacron. Have many people had much experience from dynaxorb? DynaXorb |
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#27 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
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Quote:
A convenience product is BAWOTUMEX But I have no personal experiences with these materials! Quarz sand in smaller quantities I got quite cheap as aquarium accessories. Andreas |
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#28 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
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Quote:
I have sold 2 of them to direkt power my 3 way speaker (DIY). I am waiting for delivery and will let you know.......if anyone is interested? |
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#29 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Dhaka
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Bayensf,
Let us know your impressions once you've had a chance to listen. |
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#30 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Wollongong, Australia
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Bumpy, Work Has Progressed somewhat. Been a busy week or two with what not but managed to get a start.
No pics, All bits have been cut for the box's, and starting assembly, Need to paint bits while its apart which I might get done over the next few days, Inside of the port will be matt white. Drivers have been ordered from Dan Archer audio, My local supply agent. I got the CHR-70 MkII with the black caps on the metal cones. And I finished my wires as well. Ok so I lied, I took some pics for you guys haha. Said wires, 3x3 twisted pair cat 5 cables, Nice small banana plugs and some braiding and heat shrink. ![]() Start of one of the box's, I decided I want to totally seal the upper portion of the rear of the box where the quarts sand shall live, Insted of pleating all the sides of the box for a removable back, I made a solid piece, then cut the 2 holes as seen with a jigsaw. ![]() Box is 12mm MDF cost me $25 for a heap of it pre cut into some 120mm and 230mm wide bits, this saved me a heap of time, I was able to cut them to the right size with a drop saw and app bits were cut in an hour. Internal bracing will be done with a driver brace and ill add another one a little lower. In the meantime, When I pulled the router out to do some work, it was sounding nasty haha, 15 years of use between me and my dad, The body is still near new, So I have had to order 2 new bearings and a bush for the motor lol Hopefully the parts done take too long so I can continue the project, I need it to trim sheets and veneer and what not lol Last edited by Spec; 8th May 2012 at 12:08 PM. |
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