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#101 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
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Quote:
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#102 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: victoria BC
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Quote:
The much lower XO frequencies typically implemented in a FAST system ( i.e. around or below 300Hz) require fairly high value passive components - for example a simple 1st order for both 8 ohm drivers at 300Hz requires 66mF cap and 4mH coil. For those of us who prefer film to EL caps in our passive networks, those types of values can get pricey, and the results might still not equal those of a well dialed-in simple active bi-amp set-up. .
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#103 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Victoria, BC
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Murio, I'd go with a minidsp. Extremely good bang for the buck and an excellent user interface. An absolute snap to set up.
I'm not sure I'd use a Wavecore 6". Seems like there would be better bass makers out there for less money Not that there is anything wrong with them, but they're meant to reach out to a typical dome tweeter around 2000hz. They give up bass and affordability to do this.
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#104 |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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#105 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
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Thanks guys! I will studdy little bit more about minidsb. Maybe not bad idea!
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#106 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
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Finally got past CES / THE Show and the flu. Resumed some listening to the Peerless drivers.
Short version: The Peerless 830668 drivers used either singly or two per channel work very well in a sealed cabinet with a full range driver. I've used two different woofer configurations with the CSS FR125SR. The cabinets are sealed, the dual woofer has both drivers in a single chamber within the cabinet even though they have different operating ranges. Background notes: This driver operates very smoothly even over 2khz so there is no particularly critical crossover point to a full range driver. Find a crossover point that fits your taste and it will likely work fine. For example, in one set-up, the Peerless driver was crossed to the FR125 at around 2.5khz without any nasties working their way into the music but with some loss of detail. This extended response also allows the use of a first order passive crossover (cap and choke, with resistors on the FR to balance) which I personally favor over the alternatives. The first configuration uses a single Peerless 10" driver in just under 3.75 cu ft (around 100 litres) loosely stuffed with denim insulation (30"h x 18"d x 13 1/2"w built from 3/4" MDF). The results are very good with the driver going comfortably down to a little below 30hz in room. Very nice with good punch and fairly deep response. Integration with the FR125 was easy and a simple first order crossover worked pretty well. I put a couple of ohms on the FR to help match the level. Ended up with a quite pleasing sound. Very musical. I played around with the crossover points from 180hz to 800hz with generally good results. My personal preference was at 240hz first order. The second uses two 830668 drivers in about 7.5 cu ft (around 215 litres) loosely stuffed (48"h x 24"d x 12"w built from 3/4" Baltic Birch plywood. OK, I know the dimension ratios aren't too good, but this was just a prototype.). I used the same crossover on one of the woofers as in the single system (the one mounted higher in the cabinet) to at least give me a starting point. I then put a large choke on the second Peerless driver (started with 12mH and ended up with over 15mH). This gave more reinforcement to the deep bass. Interesting results. The system went much deeper, but had a predictable rise below 70hz. Fun to listen to, but seemed MUCH more sensitive to room placement. I could not measure the -3dB point since my equipment only goes down to 20hz. It was below that in room. The dual woofer system is a monster and would make a very desirable woofer system for a HT with a full range driver such as an Alpair 10.2 (which might need 3dB of padding, maybe more to balance the FR with the woofer system). With careful room placement, it works well with classical music and acoustic jazz. My suggestion with a full range driver would be to select a bit higher first order crossover point (300hz - 800hz) to provide a little better headroom and safety margin for the fr driver if it's going to be used in higher output systems. YMMV. These results using the 830668 woofers with a CSS FR125SR will probably only be a guideline for integrating with a Mark Audio driver. One of the nice things about this hobby is that everyone can develop their system to their own tastes. (My equipment: Modified VPI TNT 2 turntable, Jelco SA-750D arm, Lyra Clavis da Capo cartridge, Herron VTSP-1a pre-amp, Herron VTPH-1mc phono stage, Herron M150 amps (6), Herron CD player (non-production), Herron interconnects, my own formula speaker cable).
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Sent from my tricorder. Last edited by silverhairbp; 6th February 2012 at 01:07 AM. |
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#107 |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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~ 0.707 times the nominal baffle step -3dB
dave
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#108 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
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Hadn't considered that. Actually, didn't even realize there was a relationship.
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Sent from my tricorder. |
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#109 |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Somehow, somewhen, i picked up the idea that when using the woof to mid XO to compensate for BS that the XO would fall somewhere between (root 2)/2 & 1 times the BS F3.
dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#110 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
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Sounds more reasonable than some of the 10 x BS related to cable design I heard at THE Show. I usually ended up with 1 x the available wine.
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