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Old 7th April 2012, 11:49 AM   #11
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Default A little something to please Colin (Toppsy)

Hello Colin (guys),
Just to let you all know i've not forgotten the Woof 6, see pic:
More on this later
Cheers
Mark.
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Old 8th April 2012, 07:47 AM   #12
Toppsy is offline Toppsy  United Kingdom
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Wonderful news Mark.
Shame the cones have lost those ring ridges. I thought that made them stand out from the crowd and a more visually aesthetic driver.
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Old 9th April 2012, 09:40 PM   #13
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Toppsy, are you providing the XO schematic anywhere for this design?
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Old 9th April 2012, 10:20 PM   #14
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Good to know, thanks Mark!

KM
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Old 10th April 2012, 07:21 AM   #15
Toppsy is offline Toppsy  United Kingdom
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chazdrumzalot wrote
Quote:
Toppsy, are you providing the XO schematic anywhere for this design?
Sorry but no. I build these for a meagre living.

However, you should be able to do a XO design for yourself. They are a simple 2-way. First order with zobel circuit (Impedance Stabilization) for the woofers with a second order crossover to the tweeters @3.5kHz. Use either fixed or adjustable L-Pad to match tweeters to woofers.
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Old 10th April 2012, 09:42 AM   #16
exurbia is offline exurbia  Australia
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Default very nice

What a beautiful hearth and fireplace, don't suppose you'd want to sell it?
The speakers look lovely, very nice veneering. Do you use a bag?
Peter.
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Old 10th April 2012, 05:00 PM   #17
Toppsy is offline Toppsy  United Kingdom
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Hi Peter,
The fireplace is not for sale. It replaced an old 70's gas fire and artificial stone fireplace all on a raised plinth that was installed when we bought the house. Really horrible and not at all in keeping with the 1930's house.

The castiron fireplace and hand carved surround was a super find whilst on a day trip to the coast and we wouldn't sell it for all the world.

Re the veneer finish: I don't use a bag I simply glue the cut panels with liquid contact adhesive thinly and evenly spread over both the veneer panel and the ply. I use 1/16" sheet balsa spacers between veneer and ply to accurately position the veneer before sliding these out one at a time and pressing the veneer into place. Sanding back the oversized edges. It's a real labour of love. I always use Liberon Finishing Oil, 3-coats rubbed down with fine steel wool between coats. If you scratch the veneer you can simply rub the area down with fine sandpaper and then re-oil for a invisible repair. Try that with a varnished or laquered finish!!
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Old 10th April 2012, 07:37 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markaudio View Post
Just to let you all know i've not forgotten the Woof 6, see pic:
Wow YES! That thing looks great. I'd probably cover the frame. Way better looking than the previous version. I'd actually consider it. Previously the ridges bothered me to much.
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Old 11th April 2012, 03:50 PM   #19
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Being in the US, I like Waterlox for the job. Same characteristics. Scratches or water marks vanish with light sanding and another coat. Can even be a spot repair. Simple to apply, beautiful and protective in use.

A question though, don't you find the steel wool leaves material in the coats? I use synthetic 0000 pads after having some problems?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Toppsy View Post
I always use Liberon Finishing Oil, 3-coats rubbed down with fine steel wool between coats. If you scratch the veneer you can simply rub the area down with fine sandpaper and then re-oil for a invisible repair. Try that with a varnished or laquered finish!!
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Old 11th April 2012, 05:22 PM   #20
Toppsy is offline Toppsy  United Kingdom
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A question though, don't you find the steel wool leaves material in the coats? I use synthetic 0000 pads after having some problems?
In a word NO. I use Liberon 0000 grade steel wool and a tack cloth to wipe the rubbed down coat before the next application of oil. Final coat for me is Liberon Black Bison Neutral polish again applied with the 0000 grade wool.

Can't say I heard of 'Waterlox' this side of the pond. I'll do some investigating.
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