Driver mount back pressure - Page 2

Bob Brines · 24th August 2011, 02:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 503Timber

Can someone help a noob here........how is this.....or is this any different than say spikes on a speaker or stand to the floor? Is this one more way of getting the speaker "connected" (or whatever the right verbiage would be), to the floor?

If you read enough articles and post on spikes, you will find two camps. One says that the spikes decouple the speaker from the floor. The other says that the spikes couple the speaker to the floor. I personally take no comfort with either. That said, I put spike on all of my floor-standers and speaker stands. Why? Most speakers, including my personal speakers, wind up on carpeted floors. A tall, thin speaker is pretty wobbly on a plush carpet. The spikes go down to the floor and provide stability.

BTW, my stereo listening room is downstairs on a concrete slab. My HT room is upstairs in a stick frame house. I can't tell that the spikes have any sonic effect in either, but then again, the rooms are so different that a comparison is hard in the best of cases.

Bob

westend · 24th August 2011, 03:59 AM

Like so...

This is a 16" frame, Altec 4168b. The foam is approximately 1/4" thick when compressed.
As was mentioned, none of the smaller full-rangers I've used needed a "cradle", as such. I would think that it could be beneficial, though, but to what amount of improvement?

silverhairbp · 24th August 2011, 05:31 AM

Did it make a difference on that monster frame?

AndrewT · 04:16 PM

Hi,
sorry to interrupt, but I see another MarkAudio thread as "closed" after MarkAudio posted and leaving no opportunity to reply. In both this thread and that other thread, MarkAudio has the apparent ability to delete or censor posts.

Does MarkAudio have these rights that are denied to Members?

Is this the case for all "manufacturer threads"

markaudio · 24th August 2011, 04:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AndrewT

Hi,
sorry to interrupt, but I see another MarkAudio thread as "closed" after MarkAudio posted and leaving no opportunity to reply. In both this thread and that other thread, MarkAudio has the apparent ability to delete or censor posts.

Does MarkAudio have these rights that are denied to Members?

Is this the case for all "manufacturer threads"

Hi Andrew,
Yes, this is the commercial part of Diyaudio.com

Each section is managed/moderated by its business (Vendors, Manufacturers).

Some threads concentrate on specific technical advice. If they get too long or go off topic, it becomes difficult for those members who ask the early questions to find the answers they need.

If you have any more to add, please feel free to send my a private message. I'll be glad to open up the thread to you or post your comments if they specifically relate to the original purpose of the thread.

Thanks
Mark.

AndrewT · 24th August 2011, 04:32 PM

Thanks for taking the time to reply, particularly since you already said "it is past my bedtime".

chrisb · 24th August 2011, 05:22 PM

To follow up on an earlier post of Bob's re "spikes" / coupling etc - this is certainly one of those areas were multiple points of view abound - my own position of avoiding them is based on the personal experience of damaging both carpeted and solid wood floors on different occasions. Some enclosures are heavy or awkward enough that adjusting positions can be very difficult, and in the case of fitting the divoted pads under spikes on hardwood floors, it can definitely be a 2 person job.

I've had some of the more slender spikes that easily pierce carpet and under-padding at were soft enough to deform on the tip when hitting a concrete basement floor or the nail/screw head on wood subfloor. They were fine going in, but bent into a small bit of a fish-hook and tore carpet when pulled out.

All that said, the important question should be do they "work" - well they can certainly take the wobble out, but I've yet to hear a demonstrable sonic improvement solely attributable to them. To reference Bob again - that test is harder than it sounds - you either rely on sonic memory , or need 2 otherwise identical pairs of speakers for comparison - not all of us do .

Re driver mount/bracing - I'll concede that smaller full-range/wide-band drivers of all makes, and certainly all of Mark's I've seen to date with the composite resin baskets probably work quite well without the nested support/magnet bracing, which is certainly tricky to get "just right". However, I'm still of the opinion that the enclosure itself should be as well braced against panel flex and towards minimizing / dispersing resonant energy as Dave described. There's more than one way to skin that cat.

Rullknufs · 25th August 2011, 08:21 PM

When i did my Mar-Kel70 speakers i fit the drivers and the brace and left the top piece open. Then i took thin pieces of paper sticking them in between the driver and the brace until i couldn't add any more. I could then move the paper but if i let go of it, it would still stay in place. So the driver had contact, but it wasn't stressing the frame.

markaudio · 25th August 2011, 10:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rullknufs

When i did my Mar-Kel70 speakers i fit the drivers and the brace and left the top piece open. Then i took thin pieces of paper sticking them in between the driver and the brace until i couldn't add any more. I could then move the paper but if i let go of it, it would still stay in place. So the driver had contact, but it wasn't stressing the frame.

Hi Rull,
Good practical work. Thanks for making this effort.
Cheers
Mark.

503Timber · 25th August 2011, 10:26 PM

Would thin pieces of self adhering cork work? Seems it may posses everything you're wanting for this application?

24th August 2011, 04:09 PM	#14
AndrewT diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Scottish Borders	off topic Hi, sorry to interrupt, but I see another MarkAudio thread as "closed" after MarkAudio posted and leaving no opportunity to reply. In both this thread and that other thread, MarkAudio has the apparent ability to delete or censor posts. Does MarkAudio have these rights that are denied to Members? Is this the case for all "manufacturer threads" Last edited by AndrewT; 24th August 2011 at 04:16 PM.

24th August 2011, 05:22 PM	#17
chrisb diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: victoria BC	To follow up on an earlier post of Bob's re "spikes" / coupling etc - this is certainly one of those areas were multiple points of view abound - my own position of avoiding them is based on the personal experience of damaging both carpeted and solid wood floors on different occasions. Some enclosures are heavy or awkward enough that adjusting positions can be very difficult, and in the case of fitting the divoted pads under spikes on hardwood floors, it can definitely be a 2 person job. I've had some of the more slender spikes that easily pierce carpet and under-padding at were soft enough to deform on the tip when hitting a concrete basement floor or the nail/screw head on wood subfloor. They were fine going in, but bent into a small bit of a fish-hook and tore carpet when pulled out. All that said, the important question should be do they "work" - well they can certainly take the wobble out, but I've yet to hear a demonstrable sonic improvement solely attributable to them. To reference Bob again - that test is harder than it sounds - you either rely on sonic memory , or need 2 otherwise identical pairs of speakers for comparison - not all of us do . Re driver mount/bracing - I'll concede that smaller full-range/wide-band drivers of all makes, and certainly all of Mark's I've seen to date with the composite resin baskets probably work quite well without the nested support/magnet bracing, which is certainly tricky to get "just right". However, I'm still of the opinion that the enclosure itself should be as well braced against panel flex and towards minimizing / dispersing resonant energy as Dave described. There's more than one way to skin that cat. __________________ you don't really believe everything you think, do you? community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com commercial site planet10-HiFi

Thread Tools	Search this Thread
Show Printable Version Email this Page	Search this Thread: Advanced Search

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
Magnet driver mount	inrank	Full Range	8	11th August 2009 08:48 PM
how do I flush mount a driver?	tweedclassic	Multi-Way	4	21st July 2006 08:24 AM
How to mount a driver in a subwoofer	miguel2	Subwoofers	45	4th May 2004 03:11 PM

New To Site?	Need Help?
Register to Participate Search Privacy Statement Contact Us	Frequently Asked Questions Did you forget your password? Mark Forums Read

24th August 2011, 03:59 AM	#12
westend diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: shorewood	Like so... This is a 16" frame, Altec 4168b. The foam is approximately 1/4" thick when compressed. As was mentioned, none of the smaller full-rangers I've used needed a "cradle", as such. I would think that it could be beneficial, though, but to what amount of improvement?

24th August 2011, 05:31 AM	#13
silverhairbp diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2011	Did it make a difference on that monster frame?

24th August 2011, 04:32 PM	#16
AndrewT diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Scottish Borders	Thanks for taking the time to reply, particularly since you already said "it is past my bedtime".

25th August 2011, 08:21 PM	#18
Rullknufs diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Sweden	When i did my Mar-Kel70 speakers i fit the drivers and the brace and left the top piece open. Then i took thin pieces of paper sticking them in between the driver and the brace until i couldn't add any more. I could then move the paper but if i let go of it, it would still stay in place. So the driver had contact, but it wasn't stressing the frame.

25th August 2011, 10:26 PM	#20
503Timber diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2011 Location: Portland Oregon	Would thin pieces of self adhering cork work? Seems it may posses everything you're wanting for this application?