|23rd August 2011, 02:11 PM||#1|
Join Date: Feb 2009
Mounting guide for MA drivers.
Mark, sorry if I disturbed you, it wasn't my intension. Just want to clear things up. It seems that your mounting design is very sensitive, which is not something bad, but we are DIYers so it would be nice if you could be more precise, if that is necessary, and "Don't tighten a driver down to the point where the frame distorts" and "They do NOT work properly if heavily tightened on the baffle." are NOT. How much is "heavily tightened"?Mounting manual should be unambiguous in a way that everybody could tighten screws exactly the same way as you did. Numbers are unambiguous, so for example if you say tighten screws to 1Nm torque than we all (weak guys and bodybuildes, experienced and less experienced DIYers) know how much is that.
It would be interesting to know how many of those 100000 drivers are not mounted (tightened) ideally.
Sorry again but I think that it would be easier for all of us and more happy users as a bonus for you if you do that guide correctly. Thanks!
|23rd August 2011, 03:06 PM||#2|
Join Date: Nov 2008
No need for apologies but you are making a meal out this situation. I don't have hundred of emails from Diyers asking me exactly how to screw an audio driver to a baffle. Most have sufficient skill to fit a driver without any problems.
My concern was the certainty that you applied in your previous post, that its necessary to tightly fit a driver on to a baffle. This assertion is certainly not correct and risks damaging a driver (not just Markaudio, but most any small to medium sized driver).
ALL small to medium sized (to 5") using pressed steel, polymer and composite frames require careful mounting to make sure they remain true. Even cast frames on smaller drivers should be tightened with care as their brittle fracture point will be low.
Most guys are are using self-tapping wood screws to mount the drivers. The force needed to overcome the fit resistance will vary according to the density of the wood, thread winding and pitch type and the screw body to pilot hole fit. Therefore its not possible to recommend a specific tightening torque. I'm also not sure how many Diyers will want to invest in mini (or micro) torque wrenches.
Hence my practical tips about making 2.1-mm pilot holes and visually eye-balling the fit as the screws start to go tight on the driver. We engineers (older engineers like me) know how to "nip-up" a screw sufficient to make it hold without over-tighten. We also know how to apply even torques across a frame. Since many guys may not have this experience, I hope to make video during September and October to demonstrate that its an easy thing to do.
For those members in the meantime who aren't sure:
Follow my tips in post No.4 of this thread:
Clamping driver from the back?
I'll delete this thread in a few hours to give time for guys to view it and refer to the other thread.
Last edited by markaudio; 23rd August 2011 at 09:51 PM.
|23rd August 2011, 03:30 PM||#3|
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Victoria, BC, NA, Sol III
Blog Entries: 5
The imaginary guide i use is "tighten the screw to the point where a real or imaginary washer is just held tight enuff to not spin.
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