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#71 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Dhaka
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#72 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Hot Spring Village AR
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Bob |
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#73 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
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I see on old bose acustimass a small lamp....
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Sic58
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#74 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
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Just as a guide mark, I currently run a Primare I21 (2x 75watt) would that be to much for a set of Alpair 7 gen3`s in a frugel horn?
Then again when it turns on the volume dial is set on 10 (and it goes from 0 to 79) and thats usually more then enough on the current speakers i have. |
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#75 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
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Quote:
I did a web search on the Primare 121 and found this review: http://www.avreview.co.uk/news/article/mps/uan/777 Quoting the review: The I21 delivered the most expansive and relaxed sound of the group which meant that it could be listened to for longer and louder than the others. On the other hand, some will find it a little on the diffuse side, it lacks precision in both imaging and timing terms and those after a tight sound should look elsewhere. We enjoyed the fact that it could spread the sound wider than the speakers and do so in an effusive yet engaging fashion. There is a touch of exaggerated openness but this space allows notes to form a fuller image. The least hi-fi sounding but easiest amp to listen to in the bunch, this attractive Swede deserves your attention. I'm always a bit weary of reviews like this one as some of the comment is technically meaningless. For example, amps can't "spread sound wider than the speaker". However, it may help Diyers focus on finding a amp that suits drivers and their listening tastes. Part of the general guidelines for the acoustic matching of amps to drivers is: 1 - Use lower-output softer warm sounding amps with low-mass drivers. The low mass drivers power-train will emit more micro-resonance. A less "lively" amp will help balance the system. 2 - High mass drivers usually mate best with higher power tight and sharp response amps. The amp's output in needed to help overcome the mechanical inertia of the emitters material mass (cone). I've not heard the 75 watt (@ 8 Ohm) Primare 121 but it looks like a good candidate for the Alp 7 Gen.3's, also Alp 10's and Alp12's. I'd suggest trying 2 0hm non-inductive good quality audio resistors in series to the driver's + feed, making an 8 Ohm load. Another point to note is several reviews refer to the Primare having a lively high range output. Given the Alp7 Gen. 3's extend to 30-kHz, you might want to consider adding a good quality small inductor (0.1 to 0.2mH) in series to the + feed of the driver, if you find the top a bit too lively. But this is purely a matter of personal listening taste, so this suggestion is more experimental. For example: http://www.erseaudio.com/Products/Fo...auge/EAF16-120 The main thing is amps of this size and output (class A/B) are usually good candidates for medium to larger size Full-range drivers, being less likely to cause over-load situations, while big enough to avoid clipping issues. Restraint with the Primare's volume control is still needed as your speaker system (horn) will likely be very efficient. Cheers Mark. Last edited by markaudio; 24th February 2012 at 12:22 AM. |
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#76 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
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Thanks for the info there, I thought the speakers where 8 ohms but i now i see its 6ohms, any preferred type/brand of resistor (and wattage) you can recommend?
I sort of fell in love with the Primare amp when I had a little listening session at the hifi dealer here, tried some NAD amps but all of it was flat to my ears and it didn`t really sound, well it had no emotion. I couldn`t feel the music so to say. When the seller hooked up the primare i was sceptical, only a volume button to treble or bass adjustment, but the system is built dual mono. And when we gave the cd another spin i was flabbergasted, it didn`t need any treble or bass controll the entire range just sounded great and staging was awesome, a clear seperation from left and right that realy makes the singer sound like its right in front of you. Tested these out of a pair of Dali Ikon 6 at the shop. Last edited by Resetter; 24th February 2012 at 09:05 AM. |
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#77 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
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Quote:
Depending on your budget, go for 10 watt to 20 watt resistors. That's plenty for most Full-range uses. Resistors like these: Madisound: Resistors for Speakers 1.0 ohm Mundorf M-Resist Supreme Resistors 20 watt | TokoSpeaker, Toko Speaker, Car Audio, Audio Mobil, Speaker, Tweeter, Midrange, Subwoofer, Capacitor, Resistor, Inductor, Audio Cheers Mark. |
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#78 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
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Out of curiosity, if a pair of alpair 10's do have cone distortion inflicted upon them from excessive volume, what is the auditory result afterward? I.e. will it be noticed primarily in the hi-freq range, or will the drivers just start to fall apart faster, or... ?
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#79 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
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I agree you do help the diyers and you try to explain the issue at hand. As for fostex they don't retrun questions from e-mails. So again thanks mark for all you do. Jm |
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#80 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
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I was playing Dadawa's Sister Drum on my Pensil 10.2 thro a myref chip amp/Pass B1 buffer. At some parts when the massive drums came in the Alpairs were moving like its going to pop out of the frame. All these at moderate volumes.
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