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Old 27th October 2011, 05:53 AM   #101
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Alright I added more bracing. I bought a broom handle and cut down 2 pieces per cabinet for side/side bracing. They were VERY tight and basically just pressure fit themselves into place. Of course I glued them and now they're sitting in the garage drying. Resonance is GREATLY reduced at the top of the cabinet. I would highly recommend anyone building these cabinets to do this. It cost 6 bucks for the rod, took about 2 minutes to cut the pieces to size then another 5 minutes to get them glued into place. Cheap, easy and works; doesn't get better than that!

The pictures make the dowels look crooked but its just the picture, they're perfectly straight

Scott
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Old 31st October 2011, 07:05 PM   #102
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FINALLY finished with construction!! LOL! I'm now onto sanding/priming/painting. Planning on sealing the "endgrain" of the MDF with drywall spackle then sanding smooth. Any other better ideas? I've heard glue/water in a 50/50 mix but is that better/easier/worse than spackle?

Scott
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Old 31st October 2011, 07:22 PM   #103
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Just sand it to about 220grit, prime, sand, and continue with the finishing schedule. Spackle probably wouldn't penetrate into the MDF deeply enough anyway.
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Old 31st October 2011, 07:32 PM   #104
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So don't even worry about sealing the end grain with the glue/water mixture? Just lay on coats of primer?
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Old 31st October 2011, 07:42 PM   #105
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skeeter99 View Post
FINALLY finished with construction!! LOL! I'm now onto sanding/priming/painting. Planning on sealing the "endgrain" of the MDF with drywall spackle then sanding smooth. Any other better ideas? I've heard glue/water in a 50/50 mix but is that better/easier/worse than spackle?

Scott

I personally avoid MDF whenever possible, and even then would finish with either veneer or plastic laminate - but believe this subject has been discussed frequently.

I guess the products to use would depend on the quality of finish/texture you'd like to attain, but likely the advice would be to not use any water based / high content sealers or pore fillers on the first coat- you'll have enough sanding as it is during the painting process. It's no fun trying to flatten out that mushrooming that will happen around screw holes and exposed edge"grain" on MDF when exposed to even heavy atmospheric humidity, much less direct application of water based products. .

There are special primers and sealers for working with MDF, and IINM, a lot of builders here tend towards auto finishing products - but no matter which, a lot of sanding between several coats of primer / sealer / color / top coats is likely to be involved.
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Old 31st October 2011, 07:53 PM   #106
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I personally avoid MDF whenever possible, and even then would finish with either veneer or plastic laminate - but believe this subject has been discussed frequently.

I guess the products to use would depend on the quality of finish/texture you'd like to attain, but likely the advice would be to not use any water based / high content sealers or pore fillers on the first coat- you'll have enough sanding as it is during the painting process. It's no fun trying to flatten out that mushrooming that will happen around screw holes and exposed edge"grain" on MDF when exposed to even heavy atmospheric humidity, much less direct application of water based products. .

There are special primers and sealers for working with MDF, and IINM, a lot of builders here tend towards auto finishing products - but no matter which, a lot of sanding between several coats of primer / sealer / color / top coats is likely to be involved.
Yeah yeah yeah I know, MDF = BAD with a lot of people but being my very first build AND my very first foray in FR Drivers I didn't want to spend too much money into wood if I wasn't going to like the outcome to begin with. I'd never heard a FR driver before buying these speakers and building the cabinets. Maybe the next build I'll try and do BB ... But again, that's been hashed out before

Ok so no water based fillers, got it. I'm going to roll on the finish with a foam roller. With such large cabinets I didn't want to spray the whole things with rattle can paint (I don't have a sprayer or booth) and thought a nice texture with an eggshell finish would look nice. I'm expecting lots of sanding so that's not an issue (just bought LOTS of sandpaper!!). Ok well I guess I'll just get it all to 220 and start up with the priming. Fun fun!

Thank you!

Scott
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Old 31st October 2011, 07:55 PM   #107
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I get better results using oil based finishes, but Latex can work OK, too. Use one coat of primer and let it dry well! Don't "lay it on"!

Practice on scrap to get your technique worked out. Multiple thin coats will usually be more successful than fewer thick coats.

Sand and continue your finish.

Proper prep, application, and dust control, is essential.
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Old 31st October 2011, 08:01 PM   #108
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Originally Posted by Douglas Ingram View Post
I get better results using oil based finishes, but Latex can work OK, too. Use one coat of primer and let it dry well! Don't "lay it on"!

Practice on scrap to get your technique worked out. Multiple thin coats will usually be more successful than fewer thick coats.

Sand and continue your finish.

Proper prep, application, and dust control, is essential.
Ok so an oil based paint with the MDF? Oil based primer too? I've usually only used latex paint so not really used to oil based.

Thank you very much for the tips, I really appreciate it! This has really been a journey but I've learned a lot so far!!
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Old 31st October 2011, 08:16 PM   #109
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Latex will work well, but oil based gives a deeper quality to the finish, and it feels harder too. Latex always has a kind of softer, plastic, feel, in comparison.

Dust control is a bigger issue with oil based finishes as the paint has a longer open time.
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Old 31st October 2011, 08:36 PM   #110
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Latex will work well, but oil based gives a deeper quality to the finish, and it feels harder too. Latex always has a kind of softer, plastic, feel, in comparison.

Dust control is a bigger issue with oil based finishes as the paint has a longer open time.
Ahh got ya. Well I want a harder finish. Maybe latex for the coats then finish with an oil based spray or do they even make them or is that a dumb idea? A hard finish is ideal for sure.
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