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Old 15th April 2011, 10:07 PM   #11
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Picture 14: This is the front panel ready for the router and circle jig. The jig is built of Baltic Birch so it is hard to tell in the picture what is jig and what is speaker cabinet panel.

Picture 15: The router in place. You can see the hole with the bit in the center.

Picture 16: The first cut was a complete circle about 3/8" deep. That recesses the speaker a bit but does leave it proud (above the surface of the front panel) about 1/8". I did this mostly because I like the look.
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Old 15th April 2011, 10:14 PM   #12
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Picture 17: The second cut is shown here. It is all the way through and 137mm in diameter. Since the router is guided by a center pin I stopped the cut at both the top and bottom at the center line. If I had cut a full circle I could well have made a mess of things. After all the routing I used a jig saw to complete the cuts.

Picture 18: This is the back side of the front panel. The MDF brace was removed and the 45 degree chamfer was routed on the back side. Of course the MDF brace was reinstalled for handling.
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Old 15th April 2011, 10:21 PM   #13
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Picture 19: The panel from the backside with that beautiful Alpair 10.2 in place. I like to test fit for that feeling of satisfaction.

Picture 20: The front view. The picture (from my phone) doesn't really show how good the fit is, but it is good.

Picture 21: This is a side view. You can see the chamfered back and how the speaker sits a little proud on the front. Perfect. I was not aware of this when I ordered the Alpairs that there is a rubber gasket built in the backside of the frame. A nice touch.

The next step will be to cut a hole for the PVC pipe that will make up the vent...
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Old 15th April 2011, 10:46 PM   #14
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Hi Natural,
Great looking project. Better if you can round off the inside edge behind the driver (see pic). Maybe its already done?
Thanks
Mark.
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Old 16th April 2011, 08:54 AM   #15
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Thank you for the enlightening and inspiring build journal.
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Old 16th April 2011, 09:09 AM   #16
_henry_ is offline _henry_  Australia
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hi naturall,

what kind of guide are u using under? i usually used straight plank, with r distance and do circle cut from the center. but i see from the photo u used circular jig with abit more than the base.
although i used router trimmer to do the job, which with plunge router the base will be too big to do circular cut.

notes:
i have never seen more beautiful plywood than urs.

cheers
henry
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Old 16th April 2011, 12:55 PM   #17
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Hi Mark, The back edge is chamfered, a little hard to tell in the picture. Rather than rounded it is a 45 degree edge.

kristleifur thanks for the kind words.

_henry_ To do the chamfer on the back side of the panel I used a bearing guided chamfer bit. On the front side I used a homemade circle jig.

Hopefully I can get into the shop today..
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Old 18th April 2011, 11:01 PM   #18
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I haven't gotten much done since the last post, but haven't stopped altogether either.

Picture 22: Using a 2 3/8 OD hole saw to make holes for the vents. The plan provided by Jim Griffin shows what appeared to me to be a 1 1/32" diameter hole for the vent. In an email from Jim this is what he had to share: "The port tube internal diameter is 2.0625" (radius is 1.03125") and the part is Parts Express #260-322 which comes in a 5" length. You can use the port tube uncut (5" long) or trim it to 4" length. The longer length will yield an F3 point of 32-33 Hz vs. about 35 Hz for the 4" tube. You can do what I do which is to not permanently insert the tube until I have a chance to hear the speaker to decide. The only downside to the 5" tube is that it has a little less clearance inside the box to the opposite wall." Thanks again Jim, I am following your advice and cutting a couple of tubes for both cabinets of differing lengths so I can listen to the choices.

Picture 23: The front panels

Picture 24: The back panel with holes drilled for binding posts. I placed these 17" from the top. No real reason for the 17" just made the decision at the time.

Well for some reason I cannot attach pictures anymore. The option to manage attachments is gone for me. I'll check again tomorrow and add the pictures them if possible.
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Old 18th April 2011, 11:08 PM   #19
_henry_ is offline _henry_  Australia
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now i see.

where do u put the guide? i mean the base is about the same size as alpairs, and from my experience the base usually preventing me to punch on the guide.

cheers
henry
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Old 18th April 2011, 11:42 PM   #20
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Hi henry I may not understand your question. I used a circle guide to cut the circular rabbet for the speaker to rest in and the same circle jig to cut the hole all the way through. That is all done from the top of the panel. The guides center point is the center of the speaker hole. Because I chose to make all the panels (front, back, and sides) all the same width it leaves little wood left on the front panel after routing so I screwed a piece of wood to the back to hold the front panel together until assembly. For the backside chamfer the router bit bearing just rides agains the hole edge itself while routing the backside relief. If this doesn't help clarify say so and when this place allows me to post pictures again I will post a picture of the circle cutting jig I used. Just let me know.
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