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Old 16th August 2011, 03:16 PM   #111
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Hi guys, I'm on the Pensil band wagon. In the final stages of a 10.2 build. Here are a few build up photos that might give others a little inspiration. I'm by no means an expert woodworker but I like to challenge myself. This project's challenge was mitred joints.

I started by cutting the top, bottom, and sides using a circular saw and a straight edge. I made them the exact outer dimensions of the box. I actually clamped two pieces of birch ply together for the cuts to ensure the panels would match in size. That was after making several practice cuts to make sure the blade was cutting straight. Once I had the right size, I used my table saw to cut the 45 degree mitre edge just barely skimming one edge. A little plane action on the very edge and I was good to go.

Next, I used the masking tape method to assemble the top, bottom, and sides. Using a square and some scrap pieces of wood I made sure everything was squared up and let the glue dry with just the four sides.
Click the image to open in full size. Click the image to open in full size.

Up next was the front. I measured the gap created by my fully assembled sides and cut scrap wood until I had the perfect width that would fit snug. Before installing I used a router and a perfect circle jig for the speaker opening. Recessed on the front, chamfered on the back.

Click the image to open in full size.

Then came the rails to screw down the removable back (I skipped the bracing).

Click the image to open in full size.

I used a piece of birch and some 1x1" strips of pine to create a base. I'm thinking I should have found birch though since the pine is really soft...I'll just have to be careful moving them around. Also note I chamfered the edges of the box. This was more for style but if it works for the Fonken series it might help here too. I'll admit the primary reason was so I could follow the theme down to the bases.

Click the image to open in full size. Click the image to open in full size.

Next, the wife asked for a speaker grill. I used 1/4" hard board for this. I cut the piece to the desired size then clamped it in place so I could cut the speaker opening. More chamfering for good measure.

Click the image to open in full size. Click the image to open in full size.

To mount them, I used a magnet kit from PartsExpress. These suckers are strong!

Click the image to open in full size.

Up next: Birch veneer for the front baffle. This will hide the magnets and the plywood edges on the front. The top and sides don't need veneer because of the mitred edges. After that, all I have to do is cover the grill with cloth and finish off the wood with sanding, stain and poly.
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Old 16th August 2011, 04:40 PM   #112
chrisb is online now chrisb  Canada
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nice work, Chris

no such thing as too many clamps

you might find some bracing beneficial, particularly on these larger enclosures - with the removable back, they'll be fairly easy to install.
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Old 16th August 2011, 05:50 PM   #113
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Yeah, when I hooked them up to test, I noticed there was a little flex. However, it'll be tough to get bracing in with the trim pieces for the removable back. I'll see how they sound without it. I may at least need a cross brace or two just to keep the poly from sliding down.

As for clamps... Boy I wish I had some bigger ones. I have two that will go the length of the box but when I went to pick up more, they only had 36" ones. I noticed when clamping the pine, that it requires a clamp almost every 3-4" to squeeze out all the glue. The birch is harder so it doesn't flex as much. In any case, I won't be using pine ever again. The router bearings dig right into it, even with masking tape to protect the wood.

Last edited by chuyler1; 16th August 2011 at 05:53 PM.
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Old 16th August 2011, 06:21 PM   #114
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Here they are next to my Frugelhorns (mk1):

Click the image to open in full size.

Kinda crappy photo taken with my phone. I'll get better pics with my camera when they are done.
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Old 16th August 2011, 06:27 PM   #115
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Mitre not something i'd attempt

One thing that should be noted is that the grills will be more sonically transparent if you
1/ make the opening not a circle (ie not equadistant from the driver
2/ champher the inside edge so that the waves traveling along the baffle meet a slope and not a "wall"

dave
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Old 16th August 2011, 06:37 PM   #116
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#2 was done. The 2nd to last photo shows the chamfer on the edges of the grill. The final photo shows an aggressive chamfer along the inside cutout. I thought about cutting out the entire center section to create a "frame", but I didn't think it would be sturdy enough to stretch the cloth over.

For serious listening...I will definitely remove the grills. I used the magnets so they would look good both with and without grills. For watching TV or whatever, they'll prolly stay on. Plus it will be fun to trick guests into thinking there's an array of woofers under the grill...it certainly sounds like there is.
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Old 16th August 2011, 06:46 PM   #117
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuyler1 View Post
I used the magnets so they would look good both with and without grills.
We really like using magnets. Took me a while to convince Chris to try it, but once tried no going back. With a big grill it is important to have powerful enuff magnets.

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Old 16th August 2011, 07:03 PM   #118
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The ones from PE are perfect. It takes some skill to get them to separate from one another. I tested with several layers of veneer and they still pull snug.
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Old 16th August 2011, 09:22 PM   #119
chrisb is online now chrisb  Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuyler1 View Post
#2 was done. The 2nd to last photo shows the chamfer on the edges of the grill. The final photo shows an aggressive chamfer along the inside cutout. I thought about cutting out the entire center section to create a "frame", but I didn't think it would be sturdy enough to stretch the cloth over.

For serious listening...I will definitely remove the grills. I used the magnets so they would look good both with and without grills. For watching TV or whatever, they'll prolly stay on. Plus it will be fun to trick guests into thinking there's an array of woofers under the grill...it certainly sounds like there is.

Personally I generally don't make the grilles full length and find that with 3/4" to 1" frame margin and gusseted inside corners that 1/4" MDF will certainly withstand the stretching of cloth - not sturdy enough for abuse, but the vastly reduced weight allows use of 1/4" rare earth bar magnets - it requires a minimum of 16 magnets per pair of frames, and with predicted price increases on the neo material, the fewer and smaller the better.

I tape the frames with pilot holes to the speaker baffle and drill though both at the same time in a drill press with depth stop set to approx 1/16" (under 1mm) deeper than the magnet thickness to allow for flush fit. Smaller boxes can actually fit on the drill press table after assembly, but larger ones need to be machined beforehand.
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Old 17th August 2011, 01:55 PM   #120
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These are the ones I used...Magnetic Grill Guides 0.395" Dia. x 0.2" H 8 Pcs. One set per speaker.

My method was a bit more crude since I don't have a drill press. First I clamped the two grills together so any holes I drilled would be uniform and I wouldn't be guessing which grill went on which speaker. I drilled pilot holes with a small bit using a handheld drill through both grills. Then I took one grill and clamped it to each speaker cabinet and continued the pilot hole into the cabinet using a depth stopper. Next I switched to a 1/4" bit. For both the grills and the cabinets I used a depth stopper. I didn't want the magnets to pull themselves out of the grill so I drilled from the front. Using a scrap piece of birch ply I hammered them in. I only have a metal hammer, which of course means you can't hammer them directly without them sticking to the hammer. Once they were 90% in, I used the hammer to tap them in the last bit.
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