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Old 23rd December 2010, 08:00 AM   #21
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I like connectors with less metal, sheet metal is preferable. Now I use screw terminals wherever I can.

I once broke a speaker box connector when I tightened it. The threaded section was bitten off by the nut. (note: my hand is small and weak and that's just a plain hand tool)

The texture of the broken surface looked powder-like and composed by small and irregular particles.

That was a bulky, shiny, golden and no name connector commonly seen at various speakers.

I remember reading a term "cross-crystal distortion" (or something like that) in a hi end cable's advertisement... Talk about cross-something distortion, that picture of broken connector comes to mind.
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Old 23rd December 2010, 02:26 PM   #22
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Cross Crystal Distortion? IIRC that's one of A. J. Van Den Hul's notions.
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Old 23rd December 2010, 11:34 PM   #23
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What I really meant was that metal of the (bulky and shiny) connector is composed by god knows what garbage powder. I guess it's some kind of recycled compressed materials with only the very thin suface finished in that shiny golden looks.

I avoid any kinds of bulky looking connectors since then. They would never be machined billet metal because that's too expensive. And I really don't need that much metal for connecting anything in home use audio equipment.
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Old 25th December 2010, 02:12 PM   #24
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I think the base diameter should be slightly larger than the nut diameter...and include an indicator for the axis of the through hole.

Have you ever fiddled with these in a heavy-speaker...low-light, bent over near the floor, up against the wall situation?

Some clue for the hole axis would promote the action.
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Old 2nd January 2011, 02:36 AM   #25
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Many thanks guys for all the feedback. Been interesting reading them.

Broadly, the comments and suggestions appear to align into 2 camps. There's the "experimenters" and the "finishers". For the experimenters, my designs are possibly too complex. Price also will be an issue as my design (as it stands) will cost more to make so won't compete with the cheaper connector sets already available.

At this time, the design appears to more suit those guys looking to build "wife/partner" friendly systems. They may be looking to make finished cabinets that look professionally built. Certainly, one of the things I picked up on during recent years is the limited choice in drivers and accessories that allow those DIYer's to wish to sharpen their skills to the point where they can compete with the finished looks of high street audio.

There's also a quality v price level issue. At what point do I limit the design in terms of its manufacturing costs? Where do I draw the line with this design between materials quality, mould and machining complexity? This first design won't be cheap if it only sells in the DIYaudio sector. To make production viable, it has to appeal to the OEM (finished system) market.

Goes to show just how complex it is to design for home build. The variety and scope of DIYaudio is large. I welcome more comments as I'll not rush into this project. I'd like to make more accessories this year so I think more on the ideas as we go along.

Cheers

Mark.

Last edited by markaudio; 2nd January 2011 at 02:43 AM. Reason: additional
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Old 3rd January 2011, 12:18 PM   #26
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I would be interested in this if they could take 5 AWG wire as I use this and most posts cannot take it. As for speakon connectors I don't think you can be price competitive and most home/diy users arn't using them as it requires retrofitting equipment, although they are the best connectors.
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Old 5th January 2011, 03:57 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kipman725 View Post
I would be interested in this if they could take 5 AWG wire as I use this and most posts cannot take it. As for speakon connectors I don't think you can be price competitive and most home/diy users arn't using them as it requires retrofitting equipment, although they are the best connectors.

why 5 AWG for speakers?
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Old 5th January 2011, 04:42 AM   #28
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One thing I admire about the WBTs I put on my amp is the fine pitched screw thread used for the "nut", which allows you to really clamp down on the wire with just your fingers, and seems to stay that way. The threads on yours look pretty coarse. I'd be compelled to spend a bit more for that feature alone.
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