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moe29 7th March 2004 06:34 PM

3D Pic... you need Anaglyph 3D Glasses to view
2 Attachment(s)
just an experiment i tried the other day... no tripod used...

Netlist 8th March 2004 07:12 PM

Moe, please tell us more. How could you make this? And can we fabricate diy glasses to see it like it should?

Heimhenge 9th March 2004 11:33 PM

You can get the glasses at:

moe29 10th March 2004 07:44 PM

I followed a tutorial on how to use PhotoShop to create the image.
I linked to it off the main JPL web page. i just went back there, and i can't find the link now...

i'll try to find it.

moe29 11th March 2004 03:21 AM

Here's the link to the page that describes the 3D process.

How to make 3D pictures

Heimhenge 11th March 2004 04:04 AM

2 Attachment(s)
Here's one I did for our last Christmas card. You need to shoot two pics of the same subject from two different positions (corresponding to your two eyes). Easy with two cameras synched. Harder with one camera unless the subject is motionless. Dogs are not. Tongue out on one pic, head turned on the other. After 10 shots I got two close enough to merge into an anaglyph. Much easier with a "still life."

We included 3D glasses with each card. Cost about 50 cents each when bought in bulk from the link I posted.

moe29 11th March 2004 05:38 AM

i didn't realize you could do it in COLOR,

the article i found just explains B&W...

got Color instructions?

Heimhenge 11th March 2004 02:51 PM

Sure! Here's the steps. If you don't have Photoshop you can still do this with Corel PhotoPaint (which I prefer) or even TheGimp.

PhotoPaint: B&W Anaglyph

1. You need two images that differ due to camera perspective: image-L and image-R.
2. Open image-R.
3. If in color, convert to greyscale.
4. Now convert it back to RGB.
5. Window, Dockers, Channels.
6. Select RED channel.
7. Copy.
8. Open image-L.
9. If in color, convert to greyscale.
10. Now convert it back to RGB.
11. Image, Split Channels to RGB (creates 3 greyscale images).
12. Window, RED-1.
13. Paste.
14. Window, Dockers, Objects
15. Set opacity to 50%.
16. Align images to best mutual centering.
17. Rotate images to tweak.
18. Set opacity to 100%.
19. Combine objects with background.
20. Image, Combine Channels.
21. Crop and save.

Good luck!

Prune 27th March 2004 07:27 AM

Yuck, anaglyph stereopsis! :yuck:
Nvidia's drivers suport it, but it'll kill your eyes and you'll be seeing flashing colors in no time if you tried to play any games with it.
LCD shutterglasses are nowdays cheap (you can get a nice new pair for $50), widely available, and well supported by Nvidia's stereo driver (BTW latest version was released just a few days ago; remember that you need the same version number of main graphics and stereo drivers; OpenGL stereo is broken, however). Unlike the case with anaglyphs you get full color with little ghosting, with the majority of DirectX games working quite well. The only negative is decreased brightness, but you can adjust your monitor and driver gamma controls.
If you can afford it, a good autostereoscopic monitor (that means raster barrier rather than lenticular; see DTI's website) is jaw dropping.
If you don't have the chance to take two photographs and you want to convert an existing one (or a painting) to 3D, you first need to create a depth map, which is time consuming but not too difficult. Then you can either create a heightfield from it in a 3D editor, texture map the original image (projection from above), and render from two eyepoints, or use 3D Combine's tool for that. Note that any depth discontinuities, where something was occluded in the original image but is visible from the new viewpoint, has to be redrawn or filled (the clone brush in Photoshop is useful here) as it is a gap in the new view. Then you have your two images; either make an anaglyph, or put them side by side and save as .jps, which the Nvidia stereo viewer can display for pretty much any type of glasses.
For more info on stereoscopic graphics check out (disclaimer: I'm not associated with the site, I'm just a stereoscopy buff).

BTW, I've done a conversion of a 2D picture to 3D using the depthmap method, but I can't post it here as it is of an adult nature; if you want it send me a PM. Speaking of adult, there are many stereoscopic adult pictures on Luke Ford's website; search for On the Set archive, and there's an associated Yahoo group with many more pictures. Games and pr0n, that's what drives computer technology innovation :D

Oh yeah, one more thing: if anyone has old LCD shutterglasses that don't work with the Nvidia drivers, such as those that used to plug into a serial or parallel port, you can still make them work -- open up the controller and usually you'll find only a ground and one signal connections are used (and also power, if it's not by an external adaptor). Signal usually drives a flip-flop (maybe followed by buffer). Ground ground to the computer case, and feed the signal from the VSYNC pin on the graphics card's VGA connector. I got my ancient 3D-Spex to work that way. If you have no stereo reverse switch, you can deal with reversed stereo by hitting the stereo on/off hotkey while in the game or whatever, until you get the right orientation.

Heimhenge 27th March 2004 03:55 PM

2 Attachment(s)
Yeah, I tried a pair of those shutter glasses once. Nice 3d effect with, as you said, no ghosting. But for certain printed matter like special cards, posters, text books, anaglyphs are the way to go if you have to include the "viewer."

I've got an old geometry book that came with a pair of red/violet glasses in a pocket inside the cover. They're used for viewing diagrams in the 3D geometry chapter. Things like intersecting planes, skew lines, etc. See attached scan. Why they used red/violet instead of the standard red/cyan I don't know, but your standard glasses will still show some of the effect.

Also got an old astronomy book with some 3D star maps that have just an incredible sense of depth. Fun stuff, 3D. Been playing around with it for many years myself.

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