I hate winding and this was the simplest thing I could think, If you add a pot this is adjustable too, don't worry I work with 25KV every day.
You are right, I prefer SRPP.
I don't like SS but for common sense I'm building a valve pre-amp and a hybrid power amp.I will finish it someday.
I prefer SRPP.
Best regards
Johann
But not here: you have to pay for recycling. Sometimes some companies collect electronic devices for free, in neighborhood.
Hi Wavebourn
Good to see you around here.
I think that something so "politically correct"
Better, but not muuuuch better.
Bigun already suggested you to ckick there: Tube CAD Journal
By the way, I've seen very similar picture in real life, the same -80 dB of 2'nd order only, from my Pyramid amp that contained 5 tubes per channel (actually, 6 if to cound pentode-triode as 2 tubes). The picture was very similar on half power, 40W. However, on higher power higher harmonics were visible. I don't remember already which input tube I used there in that version of the amp, either 6F12P or ECF-200. I usually don't do such measurements, only if somebody is curious to see.
I mean, 6AU7 is not the best choise.
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Hi Sy,
We get something in the market here that strips enamel from the wire. I bought a bottle a long time ago. It's a liquid that vaporates rather fast even when it is closed ( in a PVC bottle).
The liquid is not too thin like water. If I brush it on the enamel it starts to bubble up along with the enamel coating in a few minutes...maybe 2 to 3 minutes and I can just wipe away the enamel.
The liquid also lightly burns the skin if it makes direct contact ( feels like a physical burn of low intensity ) .
It doesn't say what it is but I'm sure it's pretty toxic and I can't identify it by it's smell. Another strange thing is that looking into the bottle it appears to have a very bubbly surface like a soap solution. It does have some hydrocarbon in it but I can't guess what. Looks more like a mixture of various (dangerous ! ) things.
I keep it VERY VERY safely ! Currently it has practically dried up and I had to dispose it. Not very sure if I want to get another bottle after I got a small burn when it fell on my hand! However it does a great job removing the enamel and I think a lot of local companies use this stuff.
It's manufacturer also appears to be a small time place.......based on it's address . But it could also be re-bottled into small bottles from bulk at that address rather than being manufactured there.
Wouldn't recommend it to most people..really looks bad !
Bigun already suggested you to ckick there: Tube CAD Journal
While answering Bigun I went twice interrupted, so two replies, sorry.
I visit very often the Tube CAD Journal page, I also did simulations of Aikido.
Wow! -80dB, even in my dreams, is that at 1W?
I don't know 6F12P neither ECF-200, I guess it's a low signal triode-pentode, but nothing else, I will investigate.
Is very difficult to obtain good valves here, also closed the import
Maybe 6AU7 is not the best choice, but I think that would have to prove.
Wim de Haan, among others, the praises, other people the hate.
Only by intellectual curiosity, can be see the schematic somewhere?
sorry for the OT, i use lye in water to treat aluminum chassis....gives it a dull sheen....
ashok, you have name of that that i can look at...i use a local thing called Stripsol that removes paints, not tried on magnet wires though.....it is a pasty substance, and applied by brush, highly corrosive and painfull to the skin just like lacquer thinners....
ashok, you have name of that that i can look at...i use a local thing called Stripsol that removes paints, not tried on magnet wires though.....it is a pasty substance, and applied by brush, highly corrosive and painfull to the skin just like lacquer thinners....
Hi SY, I have some pH strips that I use to check acid content in my wine must. That's around 3.2 to 4.6 range I think and a few wider than that. I also have 0.2N NaoH solution and phenolphtalein that I use to check acid content by titration.
I can get any other acid/alkali indicators if required.
I can get any other acid/alkali indicators if required.
The phenolphthalein should indicate if it's basic. No need to titrate, if a drop of the nasty stuff in some water still makes the indicator bright red, it's probably lye-based. Other possibility is peroxide.
Yes I'll try that. I'll pick up a bottle of the 'stuff' soon.
If peroxide can bleach skin pigments ( I'm brown ...will tell easily !) then this one may not be it as it didn't bleach my skin or leave any marks. Just felt like a burning sensation when it touched the skin until washed off with water.
I have some 10% H202 here but that's too dilute to bleach skin pigments!
If peroxide can bleach skin pigments ( I'm brown ...will tell easily !) then this one may not be it as it didn't bleach my skin or leave any marks. Just felt like a burning sensation when it touched the skin until washed off with water.
I have some 10% H202 here but that's too dilute to bleach skin pigments!
I have an idea. Acetone must help, slowly adding more of acetone molecules in polymer making it softer, but it is looong way, you have to soak it for 1-2 days.
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