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Old 22nd August 2003, 01:21 PM   #11
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k it gets kinda hot in the back... but it's working effectively...

http://www.multi-designs.com/org/ac/ac.html

I need to change the 3" hoses to like 4 or 5" instead...

the box comes out 2 inches all around...
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Old 22nd August 2003, 02:20 PM   #12
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Default COOl! hohohoho I'm FUNNY!

All right Ive stopped laughing at my humor...

Ive been wondering if you could get away with leaving the side vents open and drawing indoor air.

Hear is a picture and web site for some commercial units that do the same, to provide you with a little inspiration.

These things typically run a single large house into a ceiling plenum or out a window and spew cold air out the little houses on the front.

They either pump condensate out a house or have a bucket with a float switch attached to catch the condensate.

I hope you have a big enough electric circuit for that puppy. It would be a shame to have an electric fire while trying to stay cool.

You have me wondering about using a $100 AC unit with a power inverter to cool my 87 Jeep Cherokee. Its an old beater and not worth the $900 gamble for the new evaporator that might get the AC unit working in it.

http://www.airrover.com/
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Old 22nd August 2003, 05:55 PM   #13
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Thought about it some more...

What if you left the side vents open and used two pieces of 3" tubing for the exhaust.

The diagram you posted shows the side vents as intake for chilling the air as well as the exhaust back outside.

This approach might make the unit run more efficiently. The negative effect might be to have negative air presure inside the house, but its likely not too big an issue.

3" hose has a sectioned area of about 6.75 square inches
4" hose has a sectioned area of about 12 square inches

2x3" pipes would be about the same as a single 4"

Keeping dryer vent flaps on the hoses will keep the squirls from chewing into your house at night. Bilge vents from a boat supply shop cost more but also make good ways of terminating the hoses.

Oh, one more thing, mow your lawn!
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Old 22nd August 2003, 06:22 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally posted by Da5id4Vz
Thought about it some more...

What if you left the side vents open and used two pieces of 3" tubing for the exhaust.

The diagram you posted shows the side vents as intake for chilling the air as well as the exhaust back outside.

This approach might make the unit run more efficiently. The negative effect might be to have negative air presure inside the house, but its likely not too big an issue.

3" hose has a sectioned area of about 6.75 square inches
4" hose has a sectioned area of about 12 square inches

2x3" pipes would be about the same as a single 4"

Keeping dryer vent flaps on the hoses will keep the squirls from chewing into your house at night. Bilge vents from a boat supply shop cost more but also make good ways of terminating the hoses.

Oh, one more thing, mow your lawn!

hahaha! hey! I only live in the basement... luckily it's not my building, and i'm only living here.. renting the place hehe

actually what i was thinking is maybe getting a 5 inch tube. You think that might be better for the back? as for the other vent... I guess I could always just remove the tubing alltogether but leave the cardboard around it... hmm..

My friend mentionned maybe i should put more than 2 inches of depth in the back... You think i should? Or the 2 inches should be enough?

I must also cut the hoses so that they arn't as long... this should let the exhaust leave faster. So in essence there are no gasses emmitted by this device, it's really just the back which gets really hot and would end up defeating the purpose of running inside...
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Old 22nd August 2003, 06:43 PM   #15
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Default Like a funnel

I guess you could think of your duct adapter as a funnel. The less resistance the pressurized air has to go through to get to where it is going the better.

Shorter is always better for pushing air through a pressurized hose.

Bigger is better for making turns and adapting between sizes. Don’t count on the venturi effect to allow for constrictions in airflow, restrictions will always raise the pressure reduce efficiency.

A run of 5" house would be great and also give the whole rig that Braille look.


http://www.trond.com/brazil/sound/jingle.wav
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Old 25th August 2003, 09:48 PM   #16
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heyyy Guys....Just got back from a weeks holidays and briefly read this thread (Thanks Dave)

when I get time to read through the thread and reply I will.

Some brief comments that have already been mentioned:

NEVER place the unit sideways and if you do let it sit upright for a few hours

the surface area of the condenser has been calculated to exhaust without restriction based upon the evaporater and compressor rating (we use a program to determine the sizing for the fan and compressor provided by different Mfg`s)

More to come

Cheers!!The DIRT®
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Old 26th August 2003, 03:19 PM   #17
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Cool I await your replie(s) once you have read this thread

Welcome back!!!
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